My car droped a bomb. need some ideas on what it could be.
#31
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lol, same problem.. I just let it sit in my garage for 5 months. I was saving for a built motor and figured I would get this fixed when I did the swap, but now things have changed and a new motor is not coming anytime soon. So now I just want to repair it.
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Does the car still throw the codes after you reset the ecu and start it back up? Also what size injectors do you have? also have you done a boos leak test of the intercooler+piping+couplers?
#36
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I dont think I ever reset the ecu..but it sat so long the battery went totally dead. Wouldnt that rest it? I have 1000cc injectors. I did a boost leak test and didnt find anything.
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Are you sure that you don't have a boost leak? Back in the day (of stock ECUage), I had an IC hose pop off at 100mph, and it threw very similar codes ... similar symptoms, too. Car will idle, but drive like crap. I would check everything ... IC piping, hoses, BOV, throttle body, boost gauge hookup, etc. ... anything that has intake air moving through it.
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#39
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Are you sure that you don't have a boost leak? Back in the day (of stock ECUage), I had an IC hose pop off at 100mph, and it threw very similar codes ... similar symptoms, too. Car will idle, but drive like crap. I would check everything ... IC piping, hoses, BOV, throttle body, boost gauge hookup, etc. ... anything that has intake air moving through it.
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Last edited by Kilratio; Jul 2, 2010 at 05:18 AM.
#41
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Might be the fuel pump crapping out or the hi/low pump relay.
Here is the logic:
Fuel pump runs 2 voltages, 1 for low flow 1 for high flow
Low flow is used at startup
When you hit high flow, the pump is not working properly (could be burned coils or a mechanical/sealing issue)
Then, when you start the car back up, you have fuel line pressure so the pump doesn't prime, so it's not run at low voltage at startup.
You let the car sit overnight and your high pressure bleeds down. Turn the car on, it primes at low voltage. Drives fine til you get on it and the relay switches to high voltage. Bam, crappy fuel, high afr, terrible running condition.
Do you have a stock fuel pump? If not, upgrade to a Walbro and see what happens.
Also might need to bust out the FSM and check the hi/lo fuel pump relay. I think its "Fuel Pump Relay 1" and is under the dashboard, but that's from memory so you should check the FSM.
This, however, would not explain your sensor issue, such as the cam sensor code. That could have been a fluke, but you never know. You should also probably turn the power on to the car and start checking power/reference voltages at all of your sensor plugs (cam sensor, crank sensor, MAP sensor, etc)
Here is the logic:
Fuel pump runs 2 voltages, 1 for low flow 1 for high flow
Low flow is used at startup
When you hit high flow, the pump is not working properly (could be burned coils or a mechanical/sealing issue)
Then, when you start the car back up, you have fuel line pressure so the pump doesn't prime, so it's not run at low voltage at startup.
You let the car sit overnight and your high pressure bleeds down. Turn the car on, it primes at low voltage. Drives fine til you get on it and the relay switches to high voltage. Bam, crappy fuel, high afr, terrible running condition.
Do you have a stock fuel pump? If not, upgrade to a Walbro and see what happens.
Also might need to bust out the FSM and check the hi/lo fuel pump relay. I think its "Fuel Pump Relay 1" and is under the dashboard, but that's from memory so you should check the FSM.
This, however, would not explain your sensor issue, such as the cam sensor code. That could have been a fluke, but you never know. You should also probably turn the power on to the car and start checking power/reference voltages at all of your sensor plugs (cam sensor, crank sensor, MAP sensor, etc)
#42
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As stated previously..I can crank and drive the car around fine untill I hit boost. Then the car takes a dump. AFR's starts to hit 17+ and it runs like crap. Anyone who has had a ic coupler pop off knows that you cant hardly drive the car 10 feet let alone a few miles like I can if I dont boost it. I'm sure that is not the problem. Thx for the ideas though.
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#43
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As stated previously..I can crank and drive the car around fine untill I hit boost. Then the car takes a dump. AFR's starts to hit 17+ and it runs like crap. Anyone who has had a ic coupler pop off knows that you cant hardly drive the car 10 feet let alone a few miles like I can if I dont boost it. I'm sure that is not the problem. Thx for the ideas though.
Dave
#44
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Yes I did a boost leak check and had no problem pumping up the system to over 20 psi with no sound of a leak, in fact I had trouble keeping my adapter on because I was putting so much pressure in it.