Kilratio

iTrader: (16)

lol, same problem.. I just let it sit in my garage for 5 months. I was saving for a built motor and figured I would get this fixed when I did the swap, but now things have changed and a new motor is not coming anytime soon. So now I just want to repair it.

wreckleford

iTrader: (2)

You sure this or the sensor ground is not the problem? Try a different ECU.

Kilratio

iTrader: (16)

How can you tell if your ecu went bad? is this a common problem?

Kilratio

iTrader: (16)

what about limp mode? could the car be going into limp mode and if soo, how could I tell?

PaperClip

iTrader: (3)

Does the car still throw the codes after you reset the ecu and start it back up? Also what size injectors do you have? also have you done a boos leak test of the intercooler+piping+couplers?

Kilratio

iTrader: (16)

I dont think I ever reset the ecu..but it sat so long the battery went totally dead. Wouldnt that rest it? I have 1000cc injectors. I did a boost leak test and didnt find anything.

Ludikraut

iTrader: (17)

Are you sure that you don't have a boost leak? Back in the day (of stock ECUage), I had an IC hose pop off at 100mph, and it threw very similar codes ... similar symptoms, too. Car will idle, but drive like crap. I would check everything ... IC piping, hoses, BOV, throttle body, boost gauge hookup, etc. ... anything that has intake air moving through it.

l8r)

PaperClip

iTrader: (3)

Do you run e85?

Kilratio

iTrader: (16)

As stated previously..I can crank and drive the car around fine untill I hit boost. Then the car takes a dump. AFR's starts to hit 17+ and it runs like crap. Anyone who has had a ic coupler pop off knows that you cant hardly drive the car 10 feet let alone a few miles like I can if I dont boost it. I'm sure that is not the problem. Thx for the ideas though.

SeeCoryRun

iTrader: (2)

do the codes always return?

OneEyedJack

iTrader: (6)

Might be the fuel pump crapping out or the hi/low pump relay.

Here is the logic:
Fuel pump runs 2 voltages, 1 for low flow 1 for high flow
Low flow is used at startup
When you hit high flow, the pump is not working properly (could be burned coils or a mechanical/sealing issue)
Then, when you start the car back up, you have fuel line pressure so the pump doesn't prime, so it's not run at low voltage at startup.
You let the car sit overnight and your high pressure bleeds down. Turn the car on, it primes at low voltage. Drives fine til you get on it and the relay switches to high voltage. Bam, crappy fuel, high afr, terrible running condition.

Do you have a stock fuel pump? If not, upgrade to a Walbro and see what happens.
Also might need to bust out the FSM and check the hi/lo fuel pump relay. I think its "Fuel Pump Relay 1" and is under the dashboard, but that's from memory so you should check the FSM.

This, however, would not explain your sensor issue, such as the cam sensor code. That could have been a fluke, but you never know. You should also probably turn the power on to the car and start checking power/reference voltages at all of your sensor plugs (cam sensor, crank sensor, MAP sensor, etc)

Ludikraut

iTrader: (17)

Have you actually done a boost leak test? This is one of the most common issues on an Evo ... just my $.02.

l8r)

DaveK

iTrader: (21)

I had an IC pipe partially slip off on my car, and it wouldn't leak till you hit 6psi or so. I was running an AEM so idle wasn't really effected...but thinking you might have a similar problem where it won't suck air in under vacuum (i.e. your driveability is fine when you are off boost), but once you try to make boost, the air starts seeping by.

Dave

Kilratio

iTrader: (16)

Yes I did a boost leak check and had no problem pumping up the system to over 20 psi with no sound of a leak, in fact I had trouble keeping my adapter on because I was putting so much pressure in it.

Evoryder

iTrader: (55)

check your CAS and also check the condition of your throttle body.