Rebuilding the 20gmr MACHINE
Jan 16, 2010, 02:56 PM
#1
Rebuilding the 20gmr MACHINE
Many of you have heard I have suffered another engine failure. This time cylinder 3 spun a rod bearing. Christmas eve 2008 I pulled my engine out. With 64k on the clock and clutch that was starting to let go I figured now would be a good time to pull it. With the engine out I could not resist the urge to upgrade, BR spec JE pistons as well as BR spec crower rods were fitted. At this point I also installed an AMS balance shaft eliminator kit.
With 3500 miles I could feel something was wrong, things were getting louder. I pulled the pan to find a ton of bearing material, upon closer inspection the oil pump had walked in the housing causing low oil pressure. The engine then came back out for a full rebuild again. I could have gotten away with a new oil pump and sticken some fresh bearings in but I knew this was not the proper way to remedy the situation.
The crank was lightly scored from the lack of oil pressure so it was turned 10 thousandths under and polished. I had the engine back out of the car at this point so I said screw it and ordered a BR stage 3 head. New oil pump gasket set headstuds freshly polished crank along with new bearings and the engine was ready to go back together a 2nd time.
The assembly went smooth and the car now had the head along with some M3 cams instead of the old school cossie's I had so as you can imagine I was excited for her to hit the dyno.
It set the stock ECU dyno record at CBRD ( I believe it has been broken since) making 514whp on Chad's Mustang dyno.
This leads me into where the car is at now. I got to take it to the track one time running a best of 11.6 @ 130mph and nearly 100 in the 1/8th. This was with poor 60's as it was my 1st time out with the car. The launch control was set way to high for what the track would hold and I had forgotten my tactrix cable
. I wasn't really concerned with ET as I knew my driving would improve as I learned the new twin disk clutch,5 speed , and turbo.
Unfortunately I never got the chance because on the 3rd pass is when the rod bearing let go.
I will be updating this thread with pics and stuff as the rebuild round 2 progresses, right now I just wanted post to show you guys were I am at and no I have not set it on fire yet
.
With 3500 miles I could feel something was wrong, things were getting louder. I pulled the pan to find a ton of bearing material, upon closer inspection the oil pump had walked in the housing causing low oil pressure. The engine then came back out for a full rebuild again. I could have gotten away with a new oil pump and sticken some fresh bearings in but I knew this was not the proper way to remedy the situation.
The crank was lightly scored from the lack of oil pressure so it was turned 10 thousandths under and polished. I had the engine back out of the car at this point so I said screw it and ordered a BR stage 3 head. New oil pump gasket set headstuds freshly polished crank along with new bearings and the engine was ready to go back together a 2nd time.
The assembly went smooth and the car now had the head along with some M3 cams instead of the old school cossie's I had so as you can imagine I was excited for her to hit the dyno.
It set the stock ECU dyno record at CBRD ( I believe it has been broken since) making 514whp on Chad's Mustang dyno.
This leads me into where the car is at now. I got to take it to the track one time running a best of 11.6 @ 130mph and nearly 100 in the 1/8th. This was with poor 60's as it was my 1st time out with the car. The launch control was set way to high for what the track would hold and I had forgotten my tactrix cable
. I wasn't really concerned with ET as I knew my driving would improve as I learned the new twin disk clutch,5 speed , and turbo.Unfortunately I never got the chance because on the 3rd pass is when the rod bearing let go.
I will be updating this thread with pics and stuff as the rebuild round 2 progresses, right now I just wanted post to show you guys were I am at and no I have not set it on fire yet
.
Last edited by 20gmr; Apr 5, 2010 at 01:57 PM.
Jan 16, 2010, 04:34 PM
#4
Evolved Member
iTrader: (42)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: St. Charles, IL
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry to hear. This is exactly why I don't want to play with "built" motors in my evo. Most of them seem to have more problems than their worth.... I've played that game before... Not fun at all.
Jan 16, 2010, 06:05 PM
#5
Evolved Member
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: harrisburg, pa.
Posts: 831
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
rebuild
Good luck homie! Are you gonna post what new top secret rods you are using? I wish i knew about these before i purchased mine! Have faith in yourself you know what your doing. This stuff happens to the best engine builders. Look at that buschur 2.3 crate engine that was installed and didnt even make it off the dyno. I have faith and may the force be with you!!
Trending Topics
Jan 16, 2010, 06:35 PM
#8
The 1st time was def an oil pump failure. The drive gear needed to pounded out of the egg shaped front case. This was probably attributed to removing the factory balance shaft. The AMS Peice failed to impress me, however I do not blame their product for the death of the pump.
The fact is I think their claim that it helps prevent what happened to mine is BS, the race balance shaft delete is powered by the driven gear of the oil pump and the one that walks and is known for problems is the drive gear. I do no think their product adversely affects the oil pump but it certainly is no better for it then a stub shaft.
The 2nd time I am still curious as I take it apart. Number 1 rod bearing is kinda ugly and scored, number 2 is mint, number 3 spun,number 4 ugly also??? Not quite sure if this actually a sign of anything or if it was just from debris of the 3 rod bearing letting go. It had plenty of oil in it and it always made strong oil pressure. I start to question the machine work of the guy that ground the crank. He also mentioned the crank was bent, he said he straightened it. He said it cleaned up at ten thousandths but if he didn't straighten it it would have needed 20 thousandths.
The fact is I think their claim that it helps prevent what happened to mine is BS, the race balance shaft delete is powered by the driven gear of the oil pump and the one that walks and is known for problems is the drive gear. I do no think their product adversely affects the oil pump but it certainly is no better for it then a stub shaft.
The 2nd time I am still curious as I take it apart. Number 1 rod bearing is kinda ugly and scored, number 2 is mint, number 3 spun,number 4 ugly also??? Not quite sure if this actually a sign of anything or if it was just from debris of the 3 rod bearing letting go. It had plenty of oil in it and it always made strong oil pressure. I start to question the machine work of the guy that ground the crank. He also mentioned the crank was bent, he said he straightened it. He said it cleaned up at ten thousandths but if he didn't straighten it it would have needed 20 thousandths.
Jan 16, 2010, 06:41 PM
#9
I plan to rebuild it. I have a crank I got used on evo M, I got new MAP/ HRC connecting rods. I also got a new oil pump and head gasket from MAP. I still need to get new main bearings , fluidampr (figure its worth a shot), and I need to get a rebuild kit for the exedy while its out.
Jan 19, 2010, 10:07 AM
#11
Damn no love. well time for another update.
Head is off, and it does not look like detonation was a factor at all. I had tephra v5 in the car and had the knock light threshold at 3 counts, I never saw it come on.
I am so looking forward to getting this beast back together
Head is off, and it does not look like detonation was a factor at all. I had tephra v5 in the car and had the knock light threshold at 3 counts, I never saw it come on.
I am so looking forward to getting this beast back together
Apr 5, 2010, 10:06 AM
#12
well guys I have some pics to show you finally. Should have her up and running in the next week or so. I just ordered some finishing details from extreme psi. I got an ATI damper, kiggly HLA pressure regulator, wideband, and tial wastegate key chain bahaha
Apr 5, 2010, 12:35 PM
#13
Evolved Member
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: was Georgia, now williamsport PA
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Looks good man. I like your valve color choice.
How is "the port" these days? Its my home town, have not been home in a while.
Any clues on what caused the failure, other than mismachining? Who did the work? Palmers?
How is "the port" these days? Its my home town, have not been home in a while.
Any clues on what caused the failure, other than mismachining? Who did the work? Palmers?
Apr 5, 2010, 01:49 PM
#15
The setup I went 130 with was:
blouch custom 73lb/min turbo
je piston/crower rod. 2.0
buschur head
cosworth m3 cams
CBRD pump/alky tune
this setup yeilded 516 whp on CBRD's MD
I had actually turned the boost down to 31 psi the night at the track. It was tuned on 34 and 37 psi.
Last edited by 20gmr; Apr 5, 2010 at 01:52 PM.