2.2L 4G63 VS 2.2L 4G64 Long Rod
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2.2L 4G63 VS 2.2L 4G64 Long Rod
As I am planning on building a new motor, I'm having a hard time making up my mind on what to build. I thought I was going to go with the 2.1L and now I'm having second thoughts.
Now, I'm thinking the 2.2L! I always thought I would build a 2.0 or 2.1 for drag racing because I am a die hard drag racer but with the FP Red or Black I don't need to rev past 9500 RPM's. And if I upgrade to the 3586 or larger the higher reving engine will be perfect.
Also, I wanted to run alum rods but for street I hear their not that good, why?
Lastly, I'm going to run high compression. I'm thinking 10.5:1 or 11.0:1 with e-85.
If you have experance with the 2.2L 4G63 or 4G64 please fill me in!
Now, I'm thinking the 2.2L! I always thought I would build a 2.0 or 2.1 for drag racing because I am a die hard drag racer but with the FP Red or Black I don't need to rev past 9500 RPM's. And if I upgrade to the 3586 or larger the higher reving engine will be perfect.
Also, I wanted to run alum rods but for street I hear their not that good, why?
Lastly, I'm going to run high compression. I'm thinking 10.5:1 or 11.0:1 with e-85.
If you have experance with the 2.2L 4G63 or 4G64 please fill me in!
Last edited by dambikeracer; Feb 13, 2010 at 07:23 AM.
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Kinda sounds like your building a race motor....i mean 11:1 is pushing it for a street motor..then again i don't have E85 up here so maybe you can DD on that high of CR with E85. In General though Alum rods are for the racetrack IMO, but there are quite a few that run them on the street.
I personally would stick with Steel rods....but thats just me
I personally would stick with Steel rods....but thats just me
#3
You can run the aluminum rods you just need to keep up on the maintenance .I have never heard of HP being the limiting factor on running aluminum rods. Steel rods are just easier for the customer (less to deal with). If you plan on sticking with the black 2.2 4G63 is a nice street /strip set up. If you plan on going with a 3586HTA or something bigger you may want to look at a 4G64 long rod so you have some more RPM potential. I would also stick around the 10:1 compression. When you get any higher if something goes wrong with your tune/fuel system the results seem to be a lot worse when going from 10:1 to 11:1. 650-700 HP out of a black is a tall order is but possible as seen by English Racing and AWD.
#4
I would do the long rod motor and stick to steel rods and 10:1 compression. I would rather swap bearings every so often than have a rod evacuate the block. On an EVO you dont even have to remove the oil pan to change rod bearings.
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Alum rods only last so long.... they are not very practial unless you only race the car......and even then you need to check them quite often, very high maintenance. Steel rods are much more practical for the power levels you want.... I would'nt run anything higher than 10.0 comp ratio. The 2.2 will be just fine for your needs.
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Alum rods only last so long.... they are not very practial unless you only race the car......and even then you need to check them quite often, very high maintenance. Steel rods are much more practical for the power levels you want.... I would'nt run anything higher than 10.0 comp ratio. The 2.2 will be just fine for your needs.
Still till this day nobody has proven an aluminum rod has a certain service life in an Evo.. Some are at 20k miles that i know of.. Id like to set up a aluminum rod motor in a car with just 500whp and see how far they go eventually.. Might be my next test.. I need someone who drives alot as i am not patient enough to wait 2 years to see 20k.. LOL
Mike
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I bet if you lived in a warm climate with minimal temp changes you could run a alum rod for a pretty long time... my weed eater has a alumrod and only a one sided crank and it has been running aprox 10000 rpm for 6 yrs or so no problems with 114 octane ? LOL
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I believe you may be correct on temperatures.. You would definitely need to measure oil temps in colder climates.. A big mistake many make is assuming that because the water temp is up to par they can beat on the car.. The oil Temps takes much longer to come up to operating temperature..
Mike
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Any rod only lasts so long..
Still till this day nobody has proven an aluminum rod has a certain service life in an Evo.. Some are at 20k miles that i know of.. Id like to set up a aluminum rod motor in a car with just 500whp and see how far they go eventually.. Might be my next test.. I need someone who drives alot as i am not patient enough to wait 2 years to see 20k.. LOL
Mike
Still till this day nobody has proven an aluminum rod has a certain service life in an Evo.. Some are at 20k miles that i know of.. Id like to set up a aluminum rod motor in a car with just 500whp and see how far they go eventually.. Might be my next test.. I need someone who drives alot as i am not patient enough to wait 2 years to see 20k.. LOL
Mike
PS I'm getting that driveshaft next week!
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Ill take you up on that test if you really want to try it. Currently I have put over 22k miles a year on my car. I drag race the car every chance get. I was out at Bandimere Speedway almost every Wednesday. That's why I earned a local sponsorchip from Brian, aka Tobz at Tobz Performance Tuning.
PS I'm getting that driveshaft next week!
PS I'm getting that driveshaft next week!
Let me know on the driveshaft when your ready.. Got a couple on hand.. Thanks!!
Mike
#13
Definitely true.. I learned this when I added an oil temp sensor a few years ago. Takes more than twice as long as coolant does to get to operating temp.