David Buschur's RS/BADBISH 2010 build
Feb 16, 2010, 09:45 AM
#61
haha will do Dave. I got my Block from Aaron... I need to go bug him about it. We've spoken about which block to run etc.
I called JE today and spoke with Nick... great guy to talk to. He informed me that making a custom piston isn't a problem it's the custom rings for an 86.75mm piston that is! lol. You can only file the ring so far before it becomes an oval and doesn't seal for crap.
So Dave.... are you saying you're honing the cylinder @ 86.5? or do you jump to 87mm? because from what I'm understanding now... there's no in between. You either run a loose 86.5mm or a nice fitting 87
Maybe you don't want to post it... idk. thanks for the help regardless. I suppose your point is... if I'm not buying a 2.2L from you why help me. Understandable. I did buy 1300 dollars worth of transmission parts from your brother though
Almost forgot. On the regulator part. If you increase your base fuel pressure to improve atomization... and make more power... then you might have a reason to use an aftermarket regulator.
I called JE today and spoke with Nick... great guy to talk to. He informed me that making a custom piston isn't a problem it's the custom rings for an 86.75mm piston that is! lol. You can only file the ring so far before it becomes an oval and doesn't seal for crap.
So Dave.... are you saying you're honing the cylinder @ 86.5? or do you jump to 87mm? because from what I'm understanding now... there's no in between. You either run a loose 86.5mm or a nice fitting 87
Maybe you don't want to post it... idk. thanks for the help regardless. I suppose your point is... if I'm not buying a 2.2L from you why help me. Understandable. I did buy 1300 dollars worth of transmission parts from your brother though
Almost forgot. On the regulator part. If you increase your base fuel pressure to improve atomization... and make more power... then you might have a reason to use an aftermarket regulator.
Feb 16, 2010, 10:13 AM
#62
I do not get my pistons or rings for our 2.1's from JE, one of the few pistons I do not have them build. If I can keep any block standard bore I do that. File fitting rings.......another discussion that would turn into a huge debate with book knowledge in it. I'm not even going to comment actually and I started to, it's pointless in this thread for sure. There is .010 overbore too you don't have jump to .020. It has nothing to do with who you are buying parts from, I don't discuss engine building techniques ever, there is nothing in it for me and as sad as it is, sometimes it just comes down to that. Some one has to pay my bills and Osama isn't going to do it.
Base fuel pressure......... We are talking about running two Walbro pumps, raising the base pressure is the last thing you want to do. As pressure goes up flow drops, raising the base pressure does nothing but run the pumps out of fuel sooner.
Base fuel pressure......... We are talking about running two Walbro pumps, raising the base pressure is the last thing you want to do. As pressure goes up flow drops, raising the base pressure does nothing but run the pumps out of fuel sooner.
Feb 16, 2010, 10:28 AM
#63
In a flow standpoint yes... raising the injection pressure lowers the flow rate of the pumps. If you use Bosch 044's however... they have a higher flow rate at nearly all injection pressures over the Walbro's...BUT... it would be a feat to put them in the factory tank.
DAVE! Great idea. put dual 044's in tank. w00t!
Then you could raise injection pressure, improve atomization, possibly pick up some ponies...probably more so on an E85 engine since it's easier to evaporate a smaller droplet size. Especially while the injector is opening and closing.
On the engine stuff... thank you for sharing what you've shared. I understand.
Can you share the name of the piston ring mfgs of the ring that's 86.75mm? Or... can I just buy it from you
DAVE! Great idea. put dual 044's in tank. w00t!
Then you could raise injection pressure, improve atomization, possibly pick up some ponies...probably more so on an E85 engine since it's easier to evaporate a smaller droplet size. Especially while the injector is opening and closing.
On the engine stuff... thank you for sharing what you've shared. I understand.
Can you share the name of the piston ring mfgs of the ring that's 86.75mm? Or... can I just buy it from you
Feb 16, 2010, 02:49 PM
#65
My rings will do you no good as you'd have to have the height and radial depth cut to match them. Honestly, I have standard bore and .020's, I haven't looked into .010's but I will, if I find something I will let you know.
UPDATE!! The RS is running again as of about 30 minutes ago. Steve installed the new rear end today. We dropped the fuel tank and I removed all the old factory lines that were not being used anymore and then built the new lines in the rear and buttoned them all up. We also inspected my BR Mustache bar, since this has been a hot topic I am PROUD TO SAY that my bar is one of the first we ever made and is NOT torn or damaged and went right back on the car after the rear differential swap!! It goes to show having our billet rear diff supports keep that rear end where it belongs and makes it impossible to hurt the mustache bar.
I finished up the fuel lines under the hood and all is well.
I did scare the **** out of myself and everyone in the shop. I ended up putting the rest of the car together when Dan/Steve left (service guys). The car initially would not start. I couldn't figure out why. Well I had accidently taken the ground wire for the COP and put it to the positive side of the battery, so the car had no spark. When I figure it out I had left the key on and when I put it on the negative side BOOOOOOOOMMMMM!!!!!!! Holy crap did it back fire and boy was it loud. Ted and Nick came running, they though I lost my mind and either shot myself or the car! hahaha (That's no joke either, they really though that). Luckily it didn't hurt anything and the car fired up instantly.
Tomorrow we'll shoot some more pics of the car all together and get them posted.
Now for the hard part, replacing the heater core.............not fun.
Also, did I mention how much I LOVE how the car revs on the Haltech?!
UPDATE!! The RS is running again as of about 30 minutes ago. Steve installed the new rear end today. We dropped the fuel tank and I removed all the old factory lines that were not being used anymore and then built the new lines in the rear and buttoned them all up. We also inspected my BR Mustache bar, since this has been a hot topic I am PROUD TO SAY that my bar is one of the first we ever made and is NOT torn or damaged and went right back on the car after the rear differential swap!! It goes to show having our billet rear diff supports keep that rear end where it belongs and makes it impossible to hurt the mustache bar.
I finished up the fuel lines under the hood and all is well.
I did scare the **** out of myself and everyone in the shop. I ended up putting the rest of the car together when Dan/Steve left (service guys). The car initially would not start. I couldn't figure out why. Well I had accidently taken the ground wire for the COP and put it to the positive side of the battery, so the car had no spark. When I figure it out I had left the key on and when I put it on the negative side BOOOOOOOOMMMMM!!!!!!! Holy crap did it back fire and boy was it loud. Ted and Nick came running, they though I lost my mind and either shot myself or the car! hahaha (That's no joke either, they really though that). Luckily it didn't hurt anything and the car fired up instantly.
Tomorrow we'll shoot some more pics of the car all together and get them posted.
Now for the hard part, replacing the heater core.............not fun.
Also, did I mention how much I LOVE how the car revs on the Haltech?!
Feb 16, 2010, 03:31 PM
#69
We also inspected my BR Mustache bar, since this has been a hot topic I am PROUD TO SAY that my bar is one of the first we ever made and is NOT torn or damaged and went right back on the car after the rear differential swap!! It goes to show having our billet rear diff supports keep that rear end where it belongs and makes it impossible to hurt the mustache bar.
Feb 16, 2010, 04:10 PM
#71
evodan, I am not going to recommend doing it but I would say that "yes" you could completely remove the mustache bar with our billet side diff supports in place.
It does feel good to have the car running again, it's been a long time. Now the testing begins again.............the work is never really done.
Only three parts to test this time around, so not so bad. All pretty cut and dry. I'd sure like to pick up a bunch of low/mid range and maybe another 25 whp up top. I don't know if I am going to be willing to sacrifice any more low/mid range. We'll see.
I'd like to get everything done and buttoned up this week if we can and then start the testing next week.
I have some...............oh crap, can't believe I am going to say this, cam gears on the car now. I want to give this cam testing the benefit of the doubt and with the 2.1 in it thought it would be a good idea to atleast move the cams around some.
It does feel good to have the car running again, it's been a long time. Now the testing begins again.............the work is never really done.
Only three parts to test this time around, so not so bad. All pretty cut and dry. I'd sure like to pick up a bunch of low/mid range and maybe another 25 whp up top. I don't know if I am going to be willing to sacrifice any more low/mid range. We'll see.
I'd like to get everything done and buttoned up this week if we can and then start the testing next week.
I have some...............oh crap, can't believe I am going to say this, cam gears on the car now. I want to give this cam testing the benefit of the doubt and with the 2.1 in it thought it would be a good idea to atleast move the cams around some.
Feb 16, 2010, 04:16 PM
#73
Start advancing both cams and after you're satisfied with the tradeoff between mid range gain and top end loss.... start playing with your overlap. And then back to advance/retard a degree both directions for a final step. It'll change that beast!
You're going to be pleasantly surprised Mr. Dave!
It'll change that beast! You're going to be pleasantly surprised Mr. Dave!
Feb 16, 2010, 04:19 PM
#74
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DB....what is your thoughts on having longer or smaller boost control lines as a method to increase spool??? I ask because your boos controllers are quite a ways away from the pressure source. I've read that by slowing down the speed of the airflow to the wastegate, you can essentially make boost come on sooner.
Also, you commented on wanting a lot more low and mid range power. I've been after this for years....I would like to know what the "master" will do to increase these areas???
I am also curious about your mustache bar holding up to poor weather.
Does the car have a single drive shaft?
You are building a beast......Please keep us informed. I would like to see a top car challenge to come from BR.
Also, you commented on wanting a lot more low and mid range power. I've been after this for years....I would like to know what the "master" will do to increase these areas???
I am also curious about your mustache bar holding up to poor weather.
Does the car have a single drive shaft?
You are building a beast......Please keep us informed. I would like to see a top car challenge to come from BR.
Feb 16, 2010, 04:45 PM
#75
I prefer to use the smallest line on a boost controller that I can. These lines are -4. My boost controls are very close to the boost source actually. The line from the intake to the boost control is probably only 9" long, I take the boost source off the passenger side of the intake plenum.
There's a lot of things you can do to increase low end. Most of them trade off top end though and since the goal with this car is to run 8's it's a tough trade off. Running smaller turbos, smaller turbine housings, different cam profiles, stock intake manifold are the main things that effect the low/mid range. Making the rediculous power it takes to run 8's though makes some of those parts useless.
Our Mustache bar is powder coated, holds up great in poor weather.
My car has a two piece drive shaft, stock front section and a Devo rear one piece section.
There's a lot of things you can do to increase low end. Most of them trade off top end though and since the goal with this car is to run 8's it's a tough trade off. Running smaller turbos, smaller turbine housings, different cam profiles, stock intake manifold are the main things that effect the low/mid range. Making the rediculous power it takes to run 8's though makes some of those parts useless.
Our Mustache bar is powder coated, holds up great in poor weather.
My car has a two piece drive shaft, stock front section and a Devo rear one piece section.