Another 700+whp build...But this one is mine:)
#1
Another 700+whp build...But this one is mine:)
Updates post #104 5/4/2010
New pics post #96
Its been 5 months of waiting and collecting parts but things are starting to be put together. I guess I should start from the beginning...I purchased my 2005 black evo back in April of 2009 and had planned on just keeping it stock with a few bolt ons since I had a 1995 talon that I was building and had a gt42 on. Wellll that changed real quick and before I knew it the talon and all its parts were gone and money was being dumped in the evo.
September of 2009 I took it to the track and “cracked” a piston with 25psi on pump gas. Later that month I had it in the garage pulling the motor. She has been sitting ever since while I compile parts and figure out what I really wanted out of it. My first thought was to go with a RED and 400-500hp but the more I thought about it and talked to a few people I didn't like that idea of pushing a stock size turbo that hard when I could make the same power on less boost with a T3 setup. I didn't want to cheap out on anything as I am really trying for the “reliable” 700+whp car. Well here is what I've ended up with...
Shortblock:
Wiseco 1400HD
Manley I beams
ACL race bearings
Fluidampr crank pulley
Stock crank
Everything was balanced to 10,000rpm, block bored .20 over, honed, decked, crank polished.
Head:
Headgames
Kelford 272's
Turbo:
Shearer fab exhaust mani with smaller runners for better spool
Shearer Oil line kit
Shearer downpipe(haven't ordered)
Shearer o2 housing(haven't ordered)
Precision 6262
Fuel: E85
Injector Dynamics 2000's
Fullblown anodized dual pump hanger
Magnus fuel rail
Aeromotive FPR
-6 feed and return
Intake:
Buschur fab intake manifold
Buschur 65mm throttle body
Victory performance 3.5” fmic
HKS race bov
Transmission:
Stock with PTT twin disc
Stock transfer case
Ignition:
Spoolin up C.O.P.
Engine Mgmt.
AEM tuned by Brad Brooks
I might be forgetting a few parts since theres so many I've ordered in the past few months but they are there. I want to thank Mike at Awdmotorsports for the help in getting a lot of these parts and whether he knows it or not inspiring a lot of my decisions for parts with they're RS running the 6262 and e85.
Here's some pics of my parts...soon I will have pics posted of them all assembled lol...
Sorry pics arent better quality..all taken with iphone.
New pics post #96
Its been 5 months of waiting and collecting parts but things are starting to be put together. I guess I should start from the beginning...I purchased my 2005 black evo back in April of 2009 and had planned on just keeping it stock with a few bolt ons since I had a 1995 talon that I was building and had a gt42 on. Wellll that changed real quick and before I knew it the talon and all its parts were gone and money was being dumped in the evo.
September of 2009 I took it to the track and “cracked” a piston with 25psi on pump gas. Later that month I had it in the garage pulling the motor. She has been sitting ever since while I compile parts and figure out what I really wanted out of it. My first thought was to go with a RED and 400-500hp but the more I thought about it and talked to a few people I didn't like that idea of pushing a stock size turbo that hard when I could make the same power on less boost with a T3 setup. I didn't want to cheap out on anything as I am really trying for the “reliable” 700+whp car. Well here is what I've ended up with...
Shortblock:
Wiseco 1400HD
Manley I beams
ACL race bearings
Fluidampr crank pulley
Stock crank
Everything was balanced to 10,000rpm, block bored .20 over, honed, decked, crank polished.
Head:
Headgames
Kelford 272's
Turbo:
Shearer fab exhaust mani with smaller runners for better spool
Shearer Oil line kit
Shearer downpipe(haven't ordered)
Shearer o2 housing(haven't ordered)
Precision 6262
Fuel: E85
Injector Dynamics 2000's
Fullblown anodized dual pump hanger
Magnus fuel rail
Aeromotive FPR
-6 feed and return
Intake:
Buschur fab intake manifold
Buschur 65mm throttle body
Victory performance 3.5” fmic
HKS race bov
Transmission:
Stock with PTT twin disc
Stock transfer case
Ignition:
Spoolin up C.O.P.
Engine Mgmt.
AEM tuned by Brad Brooks
I might be forgetting a few parts since theres so many I've ordered in the past few months but they are there. I want to thank Mike at Awdmotorsports for the help in getting a lot of these parts and whether he knows it or not inspiring a lot of my decisions for parts with they're RS running the 6262 and e85.
Here's some pics of my parts...soon I will have pics posted of them all assembled lol...
Sorry pics arent better quality..all taken with iphone.
Last edited by awd2gen; Mar 26, 2011 at 06:15 PM.
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#13
Debating on going with arp main studs to replace the main bolts??? I figured the main bolts were fine considering i havent seen many stories about the main bolts failing until i read this from david buschurs thread about the "RS/Badbish 2010 build"
As some of you may remember at the end of last year while road testing the car and getting ready to head to the track with the Haltech on the car I heard a horrible pounding noise coming from the engine. I ASSumed it was a rod bearing and parked the car. Well once the engine was removed and taken apart we found that every rod/piston and bearing looked like new. The other thing we noticed was that some of the main bolts had come lose. Now don't get worried because I decided the last time I built an engine for the car I was going to use a main bolt instead of the ARP studs we typically use. The factory EVO main bolts were used and apparently it was not a wise choice.
That kind of scared me. Going with main studs instead of bolts though my machine shop is telling me that i need to get the mains aligned. Which is $170. does everyone else that goes to studs get this done?
As some of you may remember at the end of last year while road testing the car and getting ready to head to the track with the Haltech on the car I heard a horrible pounding noise coming from the engine. I ASSumed it was a rod bearing and parked the car. Well once the engine was removed and taken apart we found that every rod/piston and bearing looked like new. The other thing we noticed was that some of the main bolts had come lose. Now don't get worried because I decided the last time I built an engine for the car I was going to use a main bolt instead of the ARP studs we typically use. The factory EVO main bolts were used and apparently it was not a wise choice.
That kind of scared me. Going with main studs instead of bolts though my machine shop is telling me that i need to get the mains aligned. Which is $170. does everyone else that goes to studs get this done?