FP Red Boost Creeping at high rpm
Feb 17, 2010, 03:26 PM
#16
So here's an issue im having.. I have an 05 evo 8 and just upgraded my stock turbo to a FP Red. I have a MAP o2 housing w/ external dump and 3" turboXS exhaust.
I have my Hallman boost controller set at 18Psi and it will hold it solid but anytime after 5-5.5k rpm it will suddenly start to creep quickly to about 22-24psi up to redline
I tried running directly off the wastegate by putting the vaccum hose from the compressor housing to the acutator and it boost 12psi and holds but after about 5k again it creeps all the way to 22-24psi
This all happens at higher gears like 3rd and 4th when there is load being put on motor.. inspected hose and no cuts or leaks
Also i tried adjusting the acutator rod and still no luck??
Can anybody help thats expircenced this before?
I have my Hallman boost controller set at 18Psi and it will hold it solid but anytime after 5-5.5k rpm it will suddenly start to creep quickly to about 22-24psi up to redline
I tried running directly off the wastegate by putting the vaccum hose from the compressor housing to the acutator and it boost 12psi and holds but after about 5k again it creeps all the way to 22-24psi
This all happens at higher gears like 3rd and 4th when there is load being put on motor.. inspected hose and no cuts or leaks
Also i tried adjusting the acutator rod and still no luck??
Can anybody help thats expircenced this before?
As far is the surge. The easiest way to eliminate any boost creep would be putting a restrictor on one of the boost lines and also taking the boost source the closest to the compressor housing.
Carlos
Feb 17, 2010, 04:00 PM
#17
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I am sorry if I am poking in the wound but why to even bother putting a FP Red and run it at 22-23psi. I rather have a stock turbo than a Red at 22-23psi.
As far is the surge. The easiest way to eliminate any boost creep would be putting a restrictor on one of the boost lines and also taking the boost source the closest to the compressor housing.
Carlos
As far is the surge. The easiest way to eliminate any boost creep would be putting a restrictor on one of the boost lines and also taking the boost source the closest to the compressor housing.
Carlos
Feb 17, 2010, 04:19 PM
#18
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I disagree about the porting that always doesn't help boost creep hes running a o2 dump and that's not even helping him...Actually sometimes you lose power and spool up in porting i didn't even touch the housing on mine and i had no problems making 500 whp and fast spool up!!
So, one can port to reduce boost creep without adversely impacting spoolup, or affecting power ouput whatsoever.
Feb 17, 2010, 06:14 PM
#21
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nobody ever said i wanted to keep the turbo at 18-22psi. Im trying to get it to tune on high boost i just had the boost set low right now before tuned and i was wondering because i want to make sure im not going to have a problem tuning because of the creep
May 20, 2010, 06:42 AM
#22
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most boost creep issues can be resolved with properly setting the actuator arm. Set the actuator arm for zero preload (slips unto the flapper w/o force) and allow th bc to raise and lower boost. A short actuator arm will not allow the flapper to open full, cuase pressure to build on the turbine and raise boost levels beyond the set psi.
May 20, 2010, 10:38 AM
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most boost creep issues can be resolved with properly setting the actuator arm. Set the actuator arm for zero preload (slips unto the flapper w/o force) and allow th bc to raise and lower boost. A short actuator arm will not allow the flapper to open full, cuase pressure to build on the turbine and raise boost levels beyond the set psi.
And i could have eliminated the creep if i lightened up the preload even more but i liked the small boost creep it reall helped out top end!
Last edited by 3gEclipseTurbo; May 20, 2010 at 10:41 AM.
May 23, 2010, 08:45 PM
#27
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This is what was causing my creep with my old turbo. I ported the **** out of the wastegate port and the o2 housing didnt do anything, still had the creep. I lightened up the preload and boom i went from getting 5-6psi creep to a 2psi creep by redline which i then just tuned for. **** i like boost creep to a point. Who wants to loose boost up to when you can gain some?
And i could have eliminated the creep if i lightened up the preload even more but i liked the small boost creep it reall helped out top end!
And i could have eliminated the creep if i lightened up the preload even more but i liked the small boost creep it reall helped out top end!
Do it correctly.
May 23, 2010, 10:48 PM
#28
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... People must understand this one simple idea: A SHORT ACTUATOR ARM WILL NOT PUSH THE FLAPPER OPEN TO ITS FULL EXTENT TO ALLOW EXHAUST GASES TO PASS THROUGH THE WASTEGATE HOLE, AS OPPOSED TO A LONGER ARM. A LONGER ARM WILL ALLOW FOR MORE FLOW BECAUSE IT WILL OPEN THE FLAPPER MORE, LOWERING YOUR CHANCE FOR CREEP.....
In short, exhaust gas pressure within the turbine housing acting on the flapper valve's face at the exit opening of the wastegate bypass port is the specific force that lifts the flapper valve off its seat. The exhaust gases do the pushing which increases seat pressure. But, the actuator rod does not exert a pushing force on the flapper valve.
Last edited by sparky; May 24, 2010 at 06:48 AM.
May 24, 2010, 05:26 PM
#29
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i fixed the problem long time ago. Once i put a 3" downpipe it stopped creeping.
at the time i had a stock downpipe temp. till my downpipe came in so i used that
at the time i had a stock downpipe temp. till my downpipe came in so i used that
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