MagicManRed

iTrader: (14)

Hey now... no need for apologies. Misunderstandings happen all of the time. We are all here to clear up as much as we can and get as much info as we can to all come out better off somehow. We are all here to help eachother (hopefully).

If there is ever anything you are unclear about, or question... don't ever hesitate to PM me, or post any questions to anything that seems off. It may have been my fault for how I worded something.

As a matter of fact, is there any area in any of my posts that I should edit? I don't want anyone else thinking otherwise. Let me know, PM me if you like.

metalsaber

iTrader: (9)

In the other thread, I'd just make sure that it's clearly stated the estimated price given is for 6 brand new gears and not just 3-5.
And hopefully you find out if 3-5 can be purchased separately.

MagicManRed

iTrader: (14)

Threads updated.

MagicManRed

iTrader: (14)

When I asked John as to why is it not possible to sell just the 3 gears alone (3rd, 4th and 5th) his answer was:

"For each drive there is a driven gear, maybe this will help them understand why."

I'm no transmission guru, but I'd suspect that's the reason he will only sell all 6 together. It may be possible that all of the gears are treated somehow. I will have to ask this as well.

For anyone that understands transmissions, maybe you can explain?

metalsaber

iTrader: (9)

Probably because the 3-5 gears are cut differently (bigger gears/beefier teeth) they no longer match the remaining stock gears, thus all the other gears have to be cut to match these new gears.

JMB8606

iTrader: (1)

My guess was that he wasnt going to sell the gears without him performing the work. More money to be made if he sold the gears at lower profit margin but required that he "built the tranny". Selling the gears outright is a bit crazy. I have a local gear manufacturing company that could easily replicate these gears. At what cost,I don't know. But the price of $1800-$2000 for 6 gears seems justified.

GG06MR

iTrader: (9)

Oh, sweet! Assuming this gear set is a go, then I'm going to run the **** out of my stock tranny, and look forward to upgrading to these when it gives out!

icrnk

iTrader: (5)

I have an MR with the 6 gear lock out problem (slider spring or synchro spring)? It appears many have had this problem.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-6th-gear.html

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...gear-argh.html

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-problems.html

Will this upgrade help at all in preventing this from happening? I bought my car used with around 25k miles but don't think it was abused as I'm currently at 35k and the clutch still feels good and all the other gears engage smoothly (no grinding). I had the fluid changed when I bought the car at 25k and will probably do it again soon. I don't drag race or track it so it will have an easier life compared to most Evos. I would eventually like to get my 6th gear back and was waiting to have my tranny fixed when it was time for a new clutch. Also, will the FD provide lower revs on the freeway? Would this upgrade in gears be beneficial for a car with minimal mods?

metalsaber

iTrader: (9)

If you never plan to go for big power, I think it would be a waste of money.

buchnerj

iTrader: (19)

It would be wise to wait until a clutch swap so you don't have to pay labor twice to pull the transmission (unless you do your own work). Changing the fluids out should help with the grinding, especially on the 6 speeds. I found out when mine started acting weird that a fluid change was usually the remedy to most issues.

MagicManRed

iTrader: (14)

If you don't have money to play with, nothing is worth anything really, but here are my two cents:

Your 6th gear lock-out problem is due to hard 5th gear shifting (possibly crunching the synchro and abusing the rail) as many people may say (and believe me when I tell you this... I'm even one of them) that they are NOT abusing the car, the fact is that the 6 speed is fragile in that area, and is even abused when shifting moderately fast. Once you start crunching the 5th gear shift, 6th gear will slowly begin to lock you out. The gear itself (physically) is fine, but the synchro is damaged (Shep and I have never seen a case where 6th gear itself was broken or caused any problems). Fluid will not help this once it has begun to happen. Whether your MR is stock or not, the factory transmission will suffer down the line regardless. This is no surprise. The best you can do is stay out of 6th whenever possible, and shift into 5th smoothly. If you ARE in 6th, try popping a rev and quickly attempting to get the shifter out of 6th by going towards 5th gear, then back out into neutral. How much power is this evo putting out? if anywhere around 400lbs of torque... the 4th gear will slowly give out over time whether you beat on the shifts or not. The FD will absolutely help lower the revs. 6th gear at 70mph will no longer be 3000rpm's, it will be more like 2500ish. The upgrade will be beneficial to any and every 6speed MR. (that's in my opinion and I can give many reasons why) but I won't bore you with many reasons, just the main ones that seem to apply to you: Lower revs at cruising. Reduces the need to shift as frequently. Reduces the need to shift quickly into 5th because of the much higher speed at the top of 4th (which would be a built gear, along with 5th) and better gas mileage. That may be enough reasons for some. But most are looking at this Shep 6 speed for other reasons such as auto cross (with the combined use of a trans oil cooler). Hope this helps.

In the end: If you want to keep your transmission for the life of the car, I'd recommend you get the full upgrade (oil cooler not necessary). If money is an issue which seems to be the case with most of the people that bought a ~$40k Evolution 8/9 MR with a fragile 6 speed transmission, then I suggest going 5 speed if you aren't going to put the 6 speed to use or care for it, it's only going to cause you headaches and downtime eventually, and may take out other drivetrain parts in the process. The 5 speed for an every-day person that doesn't drag/road race it... is a lot easier to keep without maintenance. But then again, if you aren't drag racing/road racing it... whatcha got an Evo for? You know what... don't answer that question. That will open up a whole can of opinions/replies that don't pertain to this thread.

icrnk

iTrader: (5)

My mods consist of a coated Tanabe dp, Perrin HFC, and Tanabe catback with a conservative tune so I'm not anywhere near 400lb of torque. I like the feel of the 6 speed tranny so I wasn't really considering a 5 speed. Thanks for the info on the FD; as that was one area I was looking for improvement. So will the upgrade help this from happening (Once you start crunching the 5th gear shift, 6th gear will slowly begin to lock you out. The gear itself (physically) is fine, but the synchro is damaged). As for why I got the Evo if I don't drag/road race; I've wanted one since 1997 (My first car was a 97 Mirage, still have it with 210,000 + miles, so I'm familiar with the family). It's a fun weekend car that handles great. Plenty of space for family. Other than the trans, seems to be a reliable car (Proven 4G63). I'm interested in going this route when I get a new clutch. Thanks for the info. Also, will there be phone support for those that get the gears. I'll have an experienced mech do the work but support with any questions would be nice.

MagicManRed

iTrader: (14)

I can talk to Shep about phone support, however if your mechanic has done transmissions before, I'm sure it will be a walk-in-the-park for him.
I know what you mean about the feel of the 6 speed. If you get that sort of attachment to machinery the way I do, I can definitely understand why you'd want to keep it off of that alone and build it for piece of mind.

Keep an eye on your Perrin HFC.. they tend to start rattling after time (fuel passing through) As long as your tune isn't super rich, you'll be good for a while.

I'd go with what buchnerj said and if your clutch is still ok... hang in there and do everything in one shot... taking down the trans isn't an easy job, and its pissloads heavier than the 5 speed. Taking it to a mechanic can cost anywhere between 400-650 for a drop/install of a transmission. My raped 6 speed is sitting on my garage floor at the moment was quite a weekend project.

Good luck with everything, and try to stick to the OEM DiaQueen 75W85 transmission fluid. They come in 4L jugs. (Especially if you're still in warranty) As much as I've tried different fluids, and as much as some people swear by different mixes and different brands, I honestly haven't found anything to work better (not even MT90) than the DiaQueen. Maybe in 5 speeds different fluids work better, but the DiaQueen seemed to have been picked for a reason.

This is also something I was advised by Shep, and I will also be asking him what fluid to run in the new gear set for optimal life.

-MR

icrnk

iTrader: (5)

I've been using DiaQueen but ordered some Syntorq LT from Mil.Spec to try out on my next change as it's a 75W85 but full synthetic. I'm staying OEM for the other fluid. I don't drive it much and it's okay only going up to 5th gear since I try not to spend too much time above 80mph anyway.

Erik@MIL.SPEC

iTrader: (94)

Of course I am a little biased, but I WILL NOT put any more SuperDiaQueen in my vehicle. Only Castrol SynTorq LT which is a 75W-85 GL-4 like the OEM, but it's a full synthetic.