Yeah do a log, and if you are knocking like crazy, just take out like 4 or 5 degrees across the board for every cell over 100 load 3k rpm. So get rid of the knock, and if it still feels dead, then you know something is up.

Any by "dead", I mean not even in the same ballpark of performance of the old cams.

Before you drive the car more, do double check the cam timing. Put the motor at TDC and make sure the cam pulley marks line up with valve cover marks.

 

Thanks. I will try to check the timing today. When i say dead...i mean DEAD. Not even close to the same performance.

 

I know the crank pulley (not crank sprocket) has marks so you can check the timing of the motor with a timing light. I can't remember if it has a mark for TDC, but I know it has marks for like 10-20 degrees advance. Get a flash light and check it out. You have to get just the right angle with the flashlight to see the marks if you are looking in from under the hood.

 

What were your AFR's and boost like before and after the cam change?

 

Actually I kind of mis-spoke, the timing cover has the marks, and the crank pulley just has a notch. I think the lower cover timing belt cover has a mark for TDC. As I said, check it out and let us know.

 

Well I wasnt trying to completely dog on it but before I was at 28 psi with about 11.7 or so afr, with the new cams I saw from 10.2 to 10.8.

 

I just checked on an evo4 engine I have sitting around the house. The lower timing belt cover has 4 marks. The first mark is not labelled, but it should be 15 degrees BTDC, then next mark is labelled as "10 BTDC", the next mark is not labelled but should be 5 degrees BTDC, and the last mark is labelled as "T", or top dead center.

If I were you, I'd try to just swing the motor with the starter motor (without letting the engine start), to see if you get it to line up doing that first. That way you don't have to get under the car to spin the crank.

 

Ok..i found in another thread that the crank pulley should be lined up to the "T" on the cover. I will try to check this tonight. Thanks again guys for all the help.

EDIT: Thanks for all your help man. I do really appreciate it. With there being no boost leaks, and compression being good, I think the only thing left should be timing. I will report back my findings.

 

Going from 11's to 10's shouldn't make a significant difference like you describe. What about boost? Was the CEL flashing like crazy fast or just intermittently slow?

 

Honestly I didnt stare too much. I was looking more at the AFR's. If timing looks good to me, I will take it out and get a quick log to post up to see what you think.

 

If you are getting big knock counts, best thing to do is, as I said before, pull a bunch of timing to get rid of the massive knock. Keep pulling timing until you have no more knock, and if the car still feels dead, at least it is safe to drive and try to diagnose the problem further.

Don't forget to save your current ROM to disk before making changes.

 

You are the man!! Thanks again!

 

Just checked timing and it is DEAD on. Not even half a tooth off. Won't be able to pull a log until tomorrow.

 

May try pulling my sparktech off and and putting stock coils on to check that. Aftermarket fuel rail wouldn't do anything correct?

 

i don't think so your afr's are good getting a tad bit more fuel but not a rediculous amount.