RockmanX

iTrader: (78)

pretty sure stock 100mm crank is in my 2.4

RockmanX

iTrader: (78)

maybe your refering to maps build. and mike has 675whp right now with oem 100mm crank keep up with the times please

JohnBradley

iTrader: (30)

Yeah MAP did 1053, I did 794, Mikey did 675 (so far). I am sure there are plenty of other stock crank cars that have made similar power, its just really easy to remember mine, a custome, and the record holder

BLKCarbonEVO

iTrader: (2)

There is def more to come. I'm use to the power already!

Mikey

RockmanX

iTrader: (78)

have you got that custom hotside yet?? also you get my pm buddy

Carloverx

iTrader: (26)

Hey sorry to bump an old thread,

But what prep work should be done to a used oem 100mm crank before going into the build?

I thought I read somewhere turning them in a no-no. Maybe I'm wrong?

okevolutionVIII

iTrader: (71)

Knife-edging a 4G64 crank is the no-no as it's already weaker than a 4G63 crank.

Ev0ikon

iTrader: (18)

I put about 10K miles on my 2.3L build. It's a new 100mm MItsu crank. Lots of boost. It feels as it the motor is making more power smoothen out the last few thousand miles. I don't know what the WHP number is but Ted.B tuned it. It makes boosted/sprayed V8s play catch up a lot, too!

Carloverx

iTrader: (26)

I've got a 2.4 oem crank that i can either:
(a): send out and have it balanced and turned, ($300?) or
(b): replace with a manley forged race series ($550)

Can anyone recommend a shop to work the crank?

Also, if I could definitively confirm the Manley crank is better than oem, I'd rather just order it and be done with it.

ugh.

project_skyline

iTrader: (30)

If your crank needs turning probably just better to get another one.

Otherwise balance and polish for prep. I'm personally going with a manley race crank for better oiling and reliability.

Carloverx

iTrader: (26)

yeah, that's what i'm thinking. I just don't want to find out 10k miles from now the oem was the better choice for some reason

You would THINK the manley would be better, but for $550, it makes you wonder

Ev0ikon

iTrader: (18)

Go with the OEM crank. The only better ones (and ofcourse more $) are Winberg(sp?) or K1 billets.

n2oiroc

iTrader: (33)

Based on any facts? I can find plenty of pics of busted oem 4g63/64 cranks. Can you point me im the direction of busted manley or eagle 4g63/64 cranks?

SmurfZilla

iTrader: (33)

OEM here. Never had a question about the reliability of the stockers. Thought they were as bullet proof as it got.

Of course my car hasn't started yet so I can't personally quote reliability/longevity

Carloverx

iTrader: (26)

I ended up with getting a Manley Forged.

I've heard horror stores of turned cranks spinning bearings. Unless I had a local machine shop i could trust, I just couldn't justify spending nearly as much as a new manley unit, especially since i'm looking more for longevity than shear strength.

Plus, fathouse said he traps 150mph on the manley forged so it'll certainly handle what i'm asking. (between 550 and 600 dynojet whp)