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4G64 100mm crank safe???

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Old Mar 18, 2010, 08:09 PM
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4G64 100mm crank safe???

As the title states... I'm working on my LR2.4 and I'm still up in the air about the 100mm 4G64 crank. I'm looking for 700hp end goal and I have heard a lot of mixed feelings about the strength of the stock cranks. Some people say the crank can't hold 700hp and they break. Is that due to high rpms, launching, hp, tq etc... What is everyone feelings on the strength of the 4G64 100mm crank. I don't want to get an aftermarket crank unless I absolutely have to. Will the crank hold my power? Thanks for your replies.

Mikey
Old Mar 18, 2010, 08:45 PM
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..

Last edited by GHOSTN; Mar 18, 2010 at 09:13 PM.
Old Mar 18, 2010, 08:52 PM
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No I didn't make a post about the crank before. I made a post about H or I beams. So if you want to be a ***** you can get the %&^# out of my thread. Thanks

Edit - Not bringing attention to my "build"... I'm like everyone else and what to make sure that I only have to build it once and without paying 8k. I think there is nothing wrong with asking for advice on a number of different things for one build. Everyone has his/her opinion and I like to hear them. If you have a valid thing to pass on to me and the rest of the evo community then please do, if not, don't stir up my thread!

Mikey

Last edited by BLKCarbonEVO; Mar 18, 2010 at 08:57 PM.
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Old Mar 18, 2010, 09:11 PM
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My apologies i got it confused with the rod post

Originally Posted by BLKCarbonEVO
As a lot of you know ER will be building me a 10:1 LR2.4 starting next week. Currently I have a set of GSC 156mm H Beams that are rated to 550-600tq. I'm still on the fence about putting I beams in for the extra $300. I think getting 550tq making out my Red or future Black won't be to hard and that will be pushing the H beams... What do you just think? H beam or I beam?

I would like to stick with the H beams because they are cheaper. I think If I was building a 2.0 I would keep the H beams because I wouldn't be so worried about the tq getting that high, however I'm kinda scared of the 2.4 tq.

Mikey
Old Mar 18, 2010, 09:11 PM
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who said they were weak and break? if someone wants to claim that then they need to provide a link with pics of the busted crank.
Old Mar 18, 2010, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by GHOSTN
My apologies i got it confused with the rod post
no problem. it is an extra 600 bucks though...

Originally Posted by n2oiroc
who said they were weak and break? if someone wants to claim that then they need to provide a link with pics of the busted crank.
A few people I have spoke with. But the same number said they are solid...

The thing is, usually when someone builds a motor and they lose it they don't advertise that they lost a motor nor do they post up a lot of pics. Just the nature of the community. Most people try to point fingers and say the problem was all in the build not the crank itself.

Mikey
Old Mar 18, 2010, 09:55 PM
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i would run one without hesitation. all the big builders run them and they are the first ones to try and upsell to a better part. if all else fails, ask some reputable shops.
Old Mar 18, 2010, 11:48 PM
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Well i hope there strong cause a good aftermarket crank can be as much as the whole build itself.....as you probably already know
Old Mar 19, 2010, 12:32 AM
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hm... You can talk to David about it - he was doing some testing I hear. Which explains why mine is all billet.
Old Mar 19, 2010, 05:22 AM
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When given a choice between the lowest cost options, 4G64 crank vs. Eagle, one advantage the Eagle design has is it's oiling scheme is improved over the Mitsubishi cranks. On the other hand however, the ****-poor machining consistency I've seen from Eagle (as if the cheap Chinese metallurgy wasn't questionable enough) means that I would never install one out of the box, but rather take the time to check every journal for correct size and runout, check the crank for straightness, rebalance, and conduct a Rockwell hardness test as well.
Old Mar 19, 2010, 06:24 AM
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Manley makes a crank to -- fyi.
Old Mar 19, 2010, 07:33 AM
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i have an eagle 100mm crank that has been machined, balanced and polished with less than 500 miles on it in the classified section if anyone needs one.
Old Mar 19, 2010, 08:14 AM
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So are the cranks treated differently than the 2.0?
Im sure there are a plethora of ladies and gents on the boards running 2.3 strokers on the stocker 2.4 crank.
Im curious as well, but I wanna see the data. The 100mm crank in the 4g64 would be more reliable than in the 4g63 block because of rod angularity.
2.3 ppl please post up
Old Mar 19, 2010, 09:16 AM
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I think I'm going to be running a 100mm OEM 4G64 crank. I have 100% faith in English Racing's motor building capabilities and if the crank fails, we will know it was just not strong enough.

Mikey
Old Mar 19, 2010, 12:41 PM
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Im using stock as well


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