View Poll Results: GSC 2.2L Vs Buschur 2.1L 4G64 Stroker Kit
GSC 2.2L 4G64
50
44.64%
BUSCHUR 2.1L 4G64
62
55.36%
Voters: 112. You may not vote on this poll
GSC Power-Division 2.2L 4G64 Vs Buschur 2.1L Stroker Kit (Not short block)
Mar 23, 2010, 10:02 AM
#18
Really, I know where there is a buschur 2.3 sitting on a stand with spun bearings in it. Buschur didn't cover anything or stand behind his product at all. Thats why You pay the big bux for an engine...because if something happens you should have someone to point your finger at. Obviously things can happen and circumstances very, so not every blown engine is the builders fualt but in this poor guys case i feel it should have been 100% covered and he didn't get a dime back or get that engine fixed.
Mar 23, 2010, 10:15 AM
#20
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I have been looking into this quite a lot as well. It really depends what you are looking for though. The 2.1 will be a more peaky engine while the 2.2 will provide a wider power band. Both companies will provide a quality motor, it just depends on how high you want to rev and where you want your power/torque. You into the straight line or the turney stuff?
Mar 23, 2010, 10:19 AM
#21
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You would be a fool not to include ER in your list of choices. Thats who I would go with, and when I have the $$$ saved its who I am going with.
Last edited by WAIRONWORKER; Mar 23, 2010 at 10:35 AM.
Mar 23, 2010, 10:27 AM
#22
stock motor wiped out the main bearings, then buschur built the 2.3 utilizing the same block...10k later mains are wiped again. I am not a professional engine builder but that tells me the alignment of the mains was off and never got corrected, then receive no compensation.
Mar 23, 2010, 11:08 AM
#23
I like both ways but it depends on what you really want to do with the car. The 2.2 is good for street and strip, the 2.1 is probably a little better at the track when you need to really wind out 4th. I see that really starting to get pronounced around the high 140 range depending on tire height.
Mar 23, 2010, 11:50 AM
#24
stock motor wiped out the main bearings, then buschur built the 2.3 utilizing the same block...10k later mains are wiped again. I am not a professional engine builder but that tells me the alignment of the mains was off and never got corrected, then receive no compensation.
Mar 23, 2010, 12:11 PM
#25
20gmr, it's obvious to me you don't have the entire story and are just running your mouth.
First off, I have no engine here we have denied ANY service or work on, so #1, we have to have an engine before we do anything to it or for the owner. That's number ONE. Number two, IF the engine he bought from us has 10,000 miles on it then that is obvious to ME that the build was good to begin with. There is no engine with "mains being out of alignement" as you put it, that would make 10,000 miles.
The next problem I see is IF the last engine was wiped out and we sent someone a new short block there are way to many issues of cleaning up the last mess properly to give any warranty work without inspection. Bearing material and dirt left over from the last engine that blew up is probably why this one lasted "only" 10,000 miles. Also let me open your eyes to 10,000 miles on an engine, depending on the key board operator, use, RPM, boost etc., isn't exactly low miles.
As for the topic of the thread.
Correct, I'm not building a 2.2. There are WAY to many options that make WAY too small a difference in the outcome of the build. It just gets rediculous keeping track of all of it, stocking the parts etc. I see no sense in it. If you need an engine that will rev over 8500 rpm and you have a good EVO core, get a 2 liter. If you need an engine that doesn't need to go over 8500, you have a good EVO core and want killer low end power get a stroker, 2.25 liter or as everyone refers to them a 2.3. If you don't have a core best option is a 2.1, it also has better low end power than the 2.0 and will rev to over 8500 rpm.
Check out the dyno graphs of my own car comparing to last year on the 2 liter if you want to see the difference the 2.1 can make.
First off, I have no engine here we have denied ANY service or work on, so #1, we have to have an engine before we do anything to it or for the owner. That's number ONE. Number two, IF the engine he bought from us has 10,000 miles on it then that is obvious to ME that the build was good to begin with. There is no engine with "mains being out of alignement" as you put it, that would make 10,000 miles.
The next problem I see is IF the last engine was wiped out and we sent someone a new short block there are way to many issues of cleaning up the last mess properly to give any warranty work without inspection. Bearing material and dirt left over from the last engine that blew up is probably why this one lasted "only" 10,000 miles. Also let me open your eyes to 10,000 miles on an engine, depending on the key board operator, use, RPM, boost etc., isn't exactly low miles.
As for the topic of the thread.
Correct, I'm not building a 2.2. There are WAY to many options that make WAY too small a difference in the outcome of the build. It just gets rediculous keeping track of all of it, stocking the parts etc. I see no sense in it. If you need an engine that will rev over 8500 rpm and you have a good EVO core, get a 2 liter. If you need an engine that doesn't need to go over 8500, you have a good EVO core and want killer low end power get a stroker, 2.25 liter or as everyone refers to them a 2.3. If you don't have a core best option is a 2.1, it also has better low end power than the 2.0 and will rev to over 8500 rpm.
Check out the dyno graphs of my own car comparing to last year on the 2 liter if you want to see the difference the 2.1 can make.
Mar 23, 2010, 12:14 PM
#26
BTW, sitting here thinking about this, 20gmr, since your stupid comments pissed me off. I do remember speaking to a guy, I think in N or S Caroline a few weeks ago and I'm guessing that's who you are referring to as it's the only story I know of about an engine that failed. Did he also tell you he blew a head gasket and melted off an electrode in that engine? Maybe he missed that detail. Did he also tell you that I told him in order to do anything the engine needed to get here first. I'd inspect it and determine what was the cause and even if I did determine it was nothing on our end I'd fix it for my absolute dead cost of parts and machine work because he did buy it from us and I appreciated his business?
