Theory of mine why QM twin disc clutch have such low millage usage
#16
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I would be careful when taking more material off of those hubs. I think QM made them thicker for a reason. On the DSM units, the hubs are thinner and not as beefy, but they also have issues with the hub area cracking. Definitely keep us updated though. I am interested since i have a QM in my Evo as well. Good luck.
Aaron
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That is always a concern of mine, but this is for testing purposes only to get some solid proof for QM. The only reason I am doing this is to see if we can get QM to change the hub design on the flywheel side disc. After all the measuring I did last night, it sure looks like my theory is becoming more valid.
I don't see ANY reason why we couldn't run these disc down to 0.034" The pads look healthy enough to withstand it.
Originally Posted by 04WWRS
Have you adjusted it at all after it started to slip? I'm not sure of the peoceedure but I know they are supposed to be adjusted after awhile.
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Also no updates yet, I just did these measurements last night lol. Still gotta get over to the lathe and shave these hubs down a bit.
I thought about doing that as well, maybe put a "nest" into the bottom of the 2nd hub so the other hub has breathing room to go up in. I'll look at it and see what I can come up with.
I honestly think QM would sell even more of these clutches if people knew they could get 20k miles out of these. Cause anyone that has driven/shifted a QM clutch know that these things rock! But I just cannot stand rebuilding the damn thing every 10k miles. In dsm's doing a clutch job only took an hour or so, in evo's it's such a pain in the *** to drop the trans and put the trans back in.
Originally Posted by sabastian458
I would take the full .045-.055 but split it between both hubs.
I honestly think QM would sell even more of these clutches if people knew they could get 20k miles out of these. Cause anyone that has driven/shifted a QM clutch know that these things rock! But I just cannot stand rebuilding the damn thing every 10k miles. In dsm's doing a clutch job only took an hour or so, in evo's it's such a pain in the *** to drop the trans and put the trans back in.
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Interesting theory. I'll contact them (QM) today and see what they think. I know the disc start out at .250 thick and somewhere around .230-.235 start to slip. They claim right around .030 total wear is where the clutch loses it grip. So i am not sure if i would take off that much material on the hub. Maybe take off the .015 you lost and see what happens?
Well that sounds about right around the thickness of when the 2 hubs start making contact with each other according to my measurements I did last night.
Also keep in mind these disc WILL take material off of the floater plate, so the floater plate thickness will be affected as well and will contribute to bringing the 2 hubs closer to each other.
Last edited by evodude32; Apr 6, 2010 at 01:14 PM.
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Discs will be on the lathe tomorrow!
In the meantime I've been thinking of ways QM can correct this problem, there are a couple of ways really, or maybe alittle of both.
1-redesign the flywheel side disc/hub assemble so the hub does not stand so tall
2-redesign the floater plate, a simple solution would be a thicker floater plate, maybe .060" thicker floater plate to keep the hubs from contacting
or
3-redesign the flywheel side of the disc/hub AND make the floater plate thicker.
Option 3 seems this would completely solve this problem AND keep proper pressure on the clutch cover pressure plate assemble.
Either way, here in the next couple of days I will know for sure if this fixes the issue at hand, if it does, we all QM clutches users need to make it a point to QM to fix the problem so we CAN get 20k miles out of these clutches.
Only getting 10k miles out of these clutches then pulling them out only to see the disc have 60% pad left them is not right.
I dunno about you guys, but it's easy for me to put 10k miles on my car within 5-6 months, I enjoy driving my car. This is why allot of people have steered away from the QM clutch, not practical to have a $1200+ clutch that only last 10k miles. BUT will last forever for a drag car.
In the meantime I've been thinking of ways QM can correct this problem, there are a couple of ways really, or maybe alittle of both.
1-redesign the flywheel side disc/hub assemble so the hub does not stand so tall
2-redesign the floater plate, a simple solution would be a thicker floater plate, maybe .060" thicker floater plate to keep the hubs from contacting
or
3-redesign the flywheel side of the disc/hub AND make the floater plate thicker.
Option 3 seems this would completely solve this problem AND keep proper pressure on the clutch cover pressure plate assemble.
Either way, here in the next couple of days I will know for sure if this fixes the issue at hand, if it does, we all QM clutches users need to make it a point to QM to fix the problem so we CAN get 20k miles out of these clutches.
Only getting 10k miles out of these clutches then pulling them out only to see the disc have 60% pad left them is not right.
I dunno about you guys, but it's easy for me to put 10k miles on my car within 5-6 months, I enjoy driving my car. This is why allot of people have steered away from the QM clutch, not practical to have a $1200+ clutch that only last 10k miles. BUT will last forever for a drag car.
Last edited by evodude32; Apr 6, 2010 at 05:50 PM.
#21
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Discs will be on the lathe tomorrow!
In the meantime I've been thinking of ways QM can correct this problem, there are a couple of ways really, or maybe alittle of both.
1-redesign the flywheel side disc/hub assemble so the hub does not stand so tall
2-redesign the floater plate, a simple solution would be a thicker floater plate, maybe .060" thicker floater plate to keep the hubs from contacting
or
3-redesign the flywheel side of the disc/hub AND make the floater plate thicker.
Option 3 seems this would completely solve this problem AND keep proper pressure on the clutch cover pressure plate assemble.
Either way, here in the next couple of days I will know for sure if this fixes the issue at hand, if it does, we all QM clutches users need to make it a point to QM to fix the problem so we CAN get 20k miles out of these clutches.
Only getting 10k miles out of these clutches then pulling them out only to see the disc have 60% pad left them is not right.
In the meantime I've been thinking of ways QM can correct this problem, there are a couple of ways really, or maybe alittle of both.
1-redesign the flywheel side disc/hub assemble so the hub does not stand so tall
2-redesign the floater plate, a simple solution would be a thicker floater plate, maybe .060" thicker floater plate to keep the hubs from contacting
or
3-redesign the flywheel side of the disc/hub AND make the floater plate thicker.
Option 3 seems this would completely solve this problem AND keep proper pressure on the clutch cover pressure plate assemble.
Either way, here in the next couple of days I will know for sure if this fixes the issue at hand, if it does, we all QM clutches users need to make it a point to QM to fix the problem so we CAN get 20k miles out of these clutches.
Only getting 10k miles out of these clutches then pulling them out only to see the disc have 60% pad left them is not right.
I totally see you point and effort in trying to help us all but i can also understand if QM didn't really care much about mileage as this is a pretty duty specific clutch set-up not marketed necessarily for DDing
Howevere i do hope they are receptive to our cries for a more streetable, longer lasting clutch that still allowed great shifting characteristics like it already has!
#22
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Still no word from QM?
I totally see you point and effort in trying to help us all but i can also understand if QM didn't really care much about mileage as this is a pretty duty specific clutch set-up not marketed necessarily for DDing
Howevere i do hope they are receptive to our cries for a more streetable, longer lasting clutch that still allowed great shifting characteristics like it already has!
I totally see you point and effort in trying to help us all but i can also understand if QM didn't really care much about mileage as this is a pretty duty specific clutch set-up not marketed necessarily for DDing
Howevere i do hope they are receptive to our cries for a more streetable, longer lasting clutch that still allowed great shifting characteristics like it already has!
I have not contacted QM yet, I want to get the disc modified 1st, slap it in the car and see if it fixes the problem, keep in mind the disc that I am modifying are the ones that came out of my car, they were slipping. If they stop slipping after I mod them, then I have proof to present to QM, but until then I don't wanna be wasting there time.
Last edited by evodude32; Apr 6, 2010 at 06:10 PM.
#26
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I have not contacted QM yet, I want to get the disc modified 1st, slap it in the car and see if it fixes the problem, keep in mind the disc that I am modifying are the ones that came out of my car, they were slipping. If they stop slipping after I mod them, then I have proof to present to QM, but until then I don't wanna be wasting there time.
#27
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I understand your theory..I wonder if the engineers at QM know this and just produce them that way so we can buy rebuild kits? Maybe its not so much the thickness as to what happens to the disk material and floaters when it hazes? Should be interesting, thanks for the effort!
Exactly what I said....good write up evoman.. Maybe you can get another 10,000 miles out of them if this works!
Last edited by tony gibson; Apr 7, 2010 at 02:59 PM.
#28
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Just got the disc back from the lathe, we were unable to put a nest into the 2nd hub as it would have been such a pain in the *** with the lathe.
So instead of taking .050" off the flywheel side disc hub we took off .060" off. Still plenty of beef to the spline/hub. I have no worries about hub strength after looking at it now.
Pics of the hub shaved down .060" This should allow the disc to wear down plenty more, considering 10k miles only shaved .015" off the pads, there is plenty of pad left to go another 10k miles, hell maybe even more!! Time will only tell. Anyway, on to the pics.
Plenty of breathing room now!!!
Next step is to put them in and see if they slip! I will report back in the next couple of days. But I can tell you spinning it by hand it is grabbing 10x's better then it did before I shaved the hub down. I can hardly spin them by hand when applying pressure just by hand. So that is promising right there all by itself!
So instead of taking .050" off the flywheel side disc hub we took off .060" off. Still plenty of beef to the spline/hub. I have no worries about hub strength after looking at it now.
Pics of the hub shaved down .060" This should allow the disc to wear down plenty more, considering 10k miles only shaved .015" off the pads, there is plenty of pad left to go another 10k miles, hell maybe even more!! Time will only tell. Anyway, on to the pics.
Plenty of breathing room now!!!
Next step is to put them in and see if they slip! I will report back in the next couple of days. But I can tell you spinning it by hand it is grabbing 10x's better then it did before I shaved the hub down. I can hardly spin them by hand when applying pressure just by hand. So that is promising right there all by itself!
Last edited by evodude32; Apr 7, 2010 at 02:45 PM.