Kind of late of a post I just got a 2.4 build. Using oem Evo IX belt with AEM adjustable cam gears roughly set between R4 of gears

 

I talked to nick at Buschurs today, he mentioned that the Evo viii head would need to be "rounded out" not sure what that means. Also is the map adapter much easier to use then the water pump spacers?

So from what I read I should use a Evo ix OEM belt, Evo viii adjustable gears, Evo viii timing components (which the tensioner needs tweaked/played with)

And now that time has passed any better feed back on what head gasket to use?

 

probably means rounding the bowls / combustion chambers to better match the larger bore of the 4g64.

thats not needed though.

ya you can run the spacer just fine.

all my customer steve does that i built and tuned his engine + car is;

1. use stock cam gears with the oem stock evo 9 timing belt with each gear advanced 1 half tooth

2. uses a map waterpump spacer adaptor for the waterpump

3. we use a cometic HG.

hes trapping 137 and going mid 10's all day now on street tires and a full weight evo 9. id say its getting it done and then some. on slicks we are looking to go over 140. this all done on the small fp black.

his did have a little coolant issue where it would overflow the tank every now and then but after he retorqued the studs again that hasn't happened since.

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my only complaint with the 4g64 block, since its 6mm taller deck height, the dipstick is a pain in the *** to get down and seal without having to drill out another hole in the dipstick.

you guys ever try a 4g64 dipstick maybe? that and the upper timing cover doesnt work. what are you guys doing for the side timing covers to work for our cars?

using 4g64 bottom covers?

other then those 2 things i just mentioned its a great alternative block for a 4g63, and it has a lot of nice advantages with that extra 6mm height and larger displacement and bigger cyl's in general.

you wont have any HG issues or push coolant as long as the machine work is good and the tune is on point

hope that helps some. i just added some extra in there so others can see they do work and are an awesome alternative choice.

i recommend for those running big power 800whp+ to short fill the block also to strengthen it some with hard blok. i have customers over 800 dynojet though
on 2.4's that are not half filled though either. just depends on what you want to do i suppose.

 

Thanks Tom, a lot of good info there.

 

Not to bring back an old thread but I need a new head gasket for my 2.4 LR. Can you really use a 1153-1 for the 4g64? What are the cool kids with high HP 2.4 using for a head gasket these days?

 

A machined OEM 4g63 is what I was seeing/hearing the high hp guys were using. That's what I am running in mine.

 

Is this the same for Evo 9? Right now I’m TDC on crank and half a tooth on both cam gears.. Do I just degree the exhaust cam gear now as it should degree the intake as well? Need more details for those with Mivec...

 

What matters is what direction the "0" on the inner portion is pointing at. So in that pic, the bronze gear would stay where it is, and the middle (and whats touching the cam) would rotate counter-clockwise 3.75deg. So you would show 3.75 on the R side.

As for Mivec side, you can advance or retard, just need to change the map values in ecuflash for its new range so ecu doesnt freak out that its in a range it thinks it cant be or it cant get to a range it wants to be. I prefer retard so I can get 0 deg and reduce the top 28.8deg down to 25deg.