most likely ur crank journal is gonna be damaged also where that bearing was toast. It may not have been knocking for long but it doesn't take much. You might as well plan on gettin another crank.

 

Im trying to find one at the moment. Have many choices including Manley or oem camshaft. Might consider refinishing my stocker by AMS if they can supply me with matching bearings... will see.

Whats the deal with guys running stoker kits... I have heard many different setups that incorporates 2.0 cranks, rods... i dont get this. Anyone knows of a good thread where stroker options are discussed?

One more thing... Can I take my crank out with only a pan down, and install my pistons from the bottom of the car?? That might sound a dumb question to some

 

In my opinion I would pull the motor, and send out the block to have it hot tanked/sonic washed at a machine shop. Same goes for the head. I wouldn't want to risk metal pieces still floating around in a fresh motor. While your at it, it may be an opportunity to do a preemptive 60k service. Also check your oil cooler for metal, most need to get this replaced. If you can do most the work yourself it wont rack up to much $$.

 

That sucks, but at least now you got an excuse to build it. Good luck!!!

 

do I need to pull a whole motor out to change the pistons and crank?

 

As said before, it's better to have the engine cleaned while it is disassembled to keep any potential metal shavings from destroying the new engine components.

I know it sucks, but I'm in the process of pulling my own motor. Trust me, it's hard work, but fun.

-Acree

 

Yes you do. You have to at least remove the trans in order to take the clutch compontents off the crank. Why bust your *** on the garage floor trying to remove pieces of the motor when you can just pull the motor and work on it outside the car with easy access to everything?

And especially if you get the stroker kit, you will have to send the block to the machine shop to get it bored so yes the motor definately has to come out.

 

what he said ^^

Why try to fix one small thing when you got the chance to take all of the preventative measures.
I vote with getting the engine dipped and cleaned out for safety sake.

It may look like an almost impossible or just down right expensive job but you will be gaining a lot of knowledge in the process which could help with future cars down the road.

 

After attempting just changing my rod bearings and 10 oil changes every 3 miles, I spun my bearing again, oh well... That means ill keep this f**er

Im taking my motor out tomorrow!

I ordered manley crank, eagle rods, rod, main and thrust bearings. Im planing to delete my oil cooler for now. Do I need to replace my oil pump also? What else I should consider replacing in the engine with a spun bearing. Pistons?

How do I clean the block? Should I take it to a professional cleaning and how much would it cost? I assume no machine work will be necessary if my compression #'s are ok?

 

As I said in my previous post...

Bring the block and head to a machine shop an have it sonic washed. STM sells and oil cooler kit for 250$, the oil cooler shouldn't be deleted. It is adviseable to change the oil pump. The whole oiling system should be checked for metal, including the head. Also check the camshaft lobes.

 

http://amsperformance.com/instructio...ne failure.pdf

try that, it is a guide for what to do after you toast your motor!

 

that AMS guide is awesome!!!

 

also, so I dont start another thread... I drove my car today till bearing spun again and noticed whining noise from rear diff. Opened drain plug and it was freaking dry!! I fill it up and it eliminated the whine a bit... Is my diff done??

 

Good chance it may be cooked. Any chance the car has a warranty?

 

its got under 60k, im not the original owner... they most likely will ask for service records for the diff...