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Mikey's LR2.4 MIVEC 10:1 Motor Build

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Old May 6, 2010, 08:51 PM
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Very nice!!! Good luck!!
Old May 6, 2010, 08:52 PM
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Subscribing. I have talked with JohnBradley about the 2.4 you guys are going with, seeing as I am still in need of a new engine. But the price I was quoted almost made me choke. I'll have to see if the outcome from your build will be worth the extra cash to make me choice ER some of the other much cheaper choices.

-Acree
Old May 6, 2010, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by churchja
Awesome build... Any news on the GSC "secret" cams? I have a 2.3L built stroker and wondering if this would be a viable option versus the MIVEC S2s.
Yes, we know exactly what they are. However their specs won't be released until we test them in my car... We are putting off the shelf std S2s into my car and then doing a back to back at the same boost and timing to see what they do over the S2s. I also hear a rumor that there may be a special "look" to theses cams that will set them apart from the rest

Originally Posted by Mike@AwdMotorsports
Very nice!!! Good luck!!
Thank you Mike. I am hoping everything will work really nice together and make the power we are hoping. Thanks for your help

Mikey
Old May 6, 2010, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Acree
Subscribing. I have talked with JohnBradley about the 2.4 you guys are going with, seeing as I am still in need of a new engine. But the price I was quoted almost made me choke. I'll have to see if the outcome from your build will be worth the extra cash to make me choice ER some of the other much cheaper choices.

-Acree
its one of the "you get what you pay for" If you want the best, built by the best by a shop that produces nothing but great results....you will go to ER...if you want to save some money up front but pay more on the back side....then there are 100 shops for you!

Do your car a favor and let the ER crew bring it back to life!!

To Mikey...cant wait to see the results with pump and e85!
Old May 6, 2010, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by BrettMR
its one of the "you get what you pay for" If you want the best, built by the best by a shop that produces nothing but great results....you will go to ER...if you want to save some money up front but pay more on the back side....then there are 100 shops for you!

Do your car a favor and let the ER crew bring it back to life!!

To Mikey...cant wait to see the results with pump and e85!
Well to put things in perspective, the owner I purchased the vehicle from said all of the work had been done by English Racing. It was pushing 27 lbs on the stock block/head with 93/meth. The engine sent a rod out of the side of the block about 3 weeks after I received the car. I pulled the rom off the car and the rev limiter was set to 8081 rpm. I'm a little confused as to why the rev limiter was set so high since the engine was on stock springs/retainers/rods/pistons/crank/etc... So I don't know. I'll know more once I get the engine pulled this next weekend.

-Acree
Old May 6, 2010, 09:24 PM
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Cant wait to see your results Mikey.
Old May 6, 2010, 09:24 PM
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i like the carbon fiber roof.
Old May 6, 2010, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Acree
Well to put things in perspective, the owner I purchased the vehicle from said all of the work had been done by English Racing. It was pushing 27 lbs on the stock block/head with 93/meth. The engine sent a rod out of the side of the block about 3 weeks after I received the car. I pulled the rom off the car and the rev limiter was set to 8081 rpm. I'm a little confused as to why the rev limiter was set so high since the engine was on stock springs/retainers/rods/pistons/crank/etc... So I don't know. I'll know more once I get the engine pulled this next weekend.

-Acree
Owners ask for stupid things all the time. Like "I want to make lots of power on my stock long-block, because I saw a couple guys on the forums do it." Your foot controls the Rev's along with the ECU, you were free to stop revvin' it at any point. And 8081 is a fairly common request from stock longblocks. Pretty much everyone runs either 7800, or 8081 on stock stuff.
Old May 6, 2010, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Venividivichi00
Wow...just...Wow. very impressive can't wait to see the numbers and possibly video of it on the dyno.
Wow... That impressed are you? haha I hope to be there for the final tuning. From the look of it the car may spend a lot of time on the dyno and I would at least like to make the last final pulls. I will def have my camera with me Although I won't be making fancy videos like TTP, honestly I don't need too. The car will speak for itself

Originally Posted by BrettMR
its one of the "you get what you pay for" If you want the best, built by the best by a shop that produces nothing but great results....you will go to ER...if you want to save some money up front but pay more on the back side....then there are 100 shops for you!

Do your car a favor and let the ER crew bring it back to life!!

To Mikey...cant wait to see the results with pump and e85!
I def agree with Brett... I may have paid more than going a different route or going with SBR but I most certainly will have a better performing car and reliability that I can trust. What more could you honestly ask for? Thanks Brett, when do you leave?

Originally Posted by Acree
Well to put things in perspective, the owner I purchased the vehicle from said all of the work had been done by English Racing. It was pushing 27 lbs on the stock block/head with 93/meth. The engine sent a rod out of the side of the block about 3 weeks after I received the car. I pulled the rom off the car and the rev limiter was set to 8081 rpm. I'm a little confused as to why the rev limiter was set so high since the engine was on stock springs/retainers/rods/pistons/crank/etc... So I don't know. I'll know more once I get the engine pulled this next weekend.

-Acree
Sorry to hear your bad luck bro. I hope you get everything figured out. You should def talk with Aaron and get him to hook you up. You can build a LR2.4 cheaper than I did. I went a bit over the top...

Mikey
Old May 6, 2010, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Acree
Well to put things in perspective, the owner I purchased the vehicle from said all of the work had been done by English Racing. It was pushing 27 lbs on the stock block/head with 93/meth. The engine sent a rod out of the side of the block about 3 weeks after I received the car. I pulled the rom off the car and the rev limiter was set to 8081 rpm. I'm a little confused as to why the rev limiter was set so high since the engine was on stock springs/retainers/rods/pistons/crank/etc... So I don't know. I'll know more once I get the engine pulled this next weekend.

-Acree

This should be left to PM's, there is not enough info in your post to just throw this out there. You dont sound like you are trying to start anything, but also it really could have been left unsaid or in your own thread...jus sayn'...
Old May 6, 2010, 09:35 PM
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Mikey,

Looking forward to seeing some pics of your engine bay. I am very curious about your FP Black... custom as well? Can you provide some details on your FP Black versus others?

FP Black w/ modified housing & compressor cover (ported)
FP 25psi Shortened Wastegate Actuator

Thanks again,

Jay
Old May 6, 2010, 09:37 PM
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What rpm are you looking to safely hit with this setup?

-Acree
Old May 6, 2010, 09:55 PM
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For some of you that have not been following the other posts about the benefits going from to a std 150mm rod to a 156mm LR, I'll copy some of the post I have made in other random threads and bring them all here for everyone to view and debate to their liking. Some of the below may say the same thing twice but I don't feel like rewriting everything... copy and paste is amazing!

Benefits to the LR2.4 over a std 2.3 or 2.4.


The lower peak piston speeds are more so the reason we can rev higher, the reduced side load is just an added "comfort and Longevity benefit" if you will. The longer rod does reduce side load so that you are not tearing up the cylinder wall as bad as a 4G63 block with a 150mm rod (156mm rod moves the wrist pin further up in the piston resulting in a 1.13CH). The nice benefit of the longer rod is that the peak piston speeds at any given rpm are lower than a 150mm rod motor. So based on piston speeds alone increasing the rod from a 150mm to a 156mm allows for 200-300 more rpms. The other thing to look at is your rotational mass. The long rod has more rotational mass, not by much, but we kinda burn at both ends... Together, both the lower piston speeds and the reduced side load are what make the LR2.4 more reliable and safer to rev.

With a long rod the piston travels from BDC to 90-o BTDC faster than a short rod and travels slower from 90-o BTDC to TDC. A longer rod tends to have better combustion in the high rpms than a shorter rod too

You need to remember that the "mean or average" piston speed is not just the speed of the piston at the TDC/BDC of the bore, but the piston's full motion of travel from TDC to BDC and back to TDC... Mean piston speed will remain the same between the different rod lengths as long as the stroke remains the same. Peak piston speed on the other hand is the fastest that the piston travels (fpm) within a given stroke, and the longer rod will lower the peak piston speeds.

For example: Center line @ 90o 7500 rpm

Stroke / Rod Length / Rod Angle / Peak piston speed
88mm / 144mm / 17.07 / 2728
88mm / 156mm / 15.76 / 2100

Notice the difference in peak piston speed by just changing the rod length. The longer rod the lower peak piston speed at the same given rpm vs. a shorter rod with all values being equal. At the same time while reducing the peak piston speed which is equal to the level of mechanical stress exerted on the piston and wrist pin, the rod angle centerline angle is reduced as well, resulting in less side loading on the cylinder walls. The longer rod will have less centerline angle for the same crank angle than the shorter rod and therefore has lower side loadings.

Eric (R/TErnie's) math on safe revs given the SAME maximum load applied for the same weight piston for these three combinations... this was the RPM at equivalent loads (These numbers take into account R/S ratio, piston weight, PE rod weight, etc)

Stroke - Load 1 - Load 2 - Load 3
100mm - 7892 RPM - 8285 RPM -8746 RPM
94mm - 8219 RPM - 8629 RPM - 9108 RPM
88mm - 8573 RPM - 9000 RPM - 9500 RPM

The 8200 limit is the point that reliability is still really high based on mean piston speeds, the long rod max piston speeds, and the load. Sure you can rev higher but remember that stress, over time, will destroy a well built motor, regardless of who builds it. So the goal is to find a well rounded rev limit that is fun and safe at the same time. It looks as if 8200 is about right. 8700 on the other hand is in the load 3 cat with the highest stress levels that I for one, don't ever want to personally rev my LR2.4 past. I'll have my daily limit at 8200 and my track limit max of 8650.

As Aaron would tell someone that wanted to rev to 9k... "Sure, and I can stick my dick in a pencil sharpener too, but who the **** would want to." Great line at 0800 in the morning when I first get out of working a 24 hour shift. Thanks for making my day Aaron!

That was prob a huge jumble **** but whatever....

Mikey

Last edited by BLKCarbonEVO; Jan 28, 2011 at 10:59 AM.
Old May 6, 2010, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by churchja
Mikey,

Looking forward to seeing some pics of your engine bay. I am very curious about your FP Black... custom as well? Can you provide some details on your FP Black versus others?

FP Black w/ modified housing & compressor cover (ported)
FP 25psi Shortened Wastegate Actuator

Thanks again,

Jay
There will be nothing released till later down the road. R&D/Testing is just that... All in good time.

Mikey
Old May 6, 2010, 11:28 PM
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I leave on Tuesday!! Weather still sucks up at Glacier National Park in montana but it will still be nice to go up there nonetheless. We planned out a 7 day trip from here to NC then after a few days there I'll head up to NH.

Ramses +1....


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