Originally Posted by BLKCarbonEVO

Aaron, I saw in another thread that you put these on your street cars. Did you end up putting one of these in my car already?

Mikey

Originally Posted by Broham

ted b,

cheapie manifolds crack like the megan. what is wrong with the stock cast manifold? sure the best gains won't be achieved, but you would need the high quality tubulars which are more expensive? with the fp black, won't it work fine with the stock manifold? i've seen multiple builds without using a tubular for this setup. just wondering.

strmtrp,

10k is a hot price for the performance. where i am people buy 80k cars like soda (nice one had me thcrying laughing at work just bought a soda just now from the machine lol) even ough they are just luxury vehicles that put 400 wheel or so like an m3 conv from dealer new. so this evo will pop a squat on that m3 for a low price. so yea not a bad way to spend 10k. regarding the wife statement, it doesn't make sense. this is not like changing motor oil, this requires far more experience than "i worked on cars with my dad on sundays" sooo... yea...... nice build

Originally Posted by RockmanX

lol i laugh at 10k. If your doing a full build you will exceed that easy enough for all the work thats involved. I been getting stupid killer deals on my parts New and used and im above that. long as im below the evo average of 25k for a full build im happy i still have like 3k before i hit 20k. and i have nothing to spend 3k on just a 130$ gtspec front strut bar. Oh i might get a built tranny later but still will not touch 3k.


John bradley mind helping me out and directing me toward what ted b and mikey are talking about since your getting one for him i wanna see it and red up on it etc see if its something i should include in my build

Originally Posted by RockmanX

lol i laugh at 10k. If your doing a full build you will exceed that easy enough for all the work thats involved. I been getting stupid killer deals on my parts New and used and im above that. long as im below the evo average of 25k for a full build im happy i still have like 3k before i hit 20k. and i have nothing to spend 3k on just a 130$ gtspec front strut bar. Oh i might get a built tranny later but still will not touch 3k.


John bradley mind helping me out and directing me toward what ted b and mikey are talking about since your getting one for him i wanna see it and red up on it etc see if its something i should include in my build

Originally Posted by NickieBlaine

Jealous?

Looking good, cant wait to see those numbers!

Originally Posted by n2oiroc

10 grand? chit, i spent well over that in parts so far and im not even close. actually more like this.

Originally Posted by BLKCarbonEVO

Everyone, I don't mind paying money to have a good setup. You pay to play and ER is my bank

Rock, Here is the link of the Oil Pressure Reg on Kigglys website. http://www.kigglyracing.com/parts/HL..._Regulator.htm

Here are two evom links: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/en...-reg-evos.html https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...rth-doing.html

Hope that answers your questions. After reading up on it, it looks like a great mod!!! Def don't want oil problems in your 50K dollar motor

Mikey

Originally Posted by Svendiesel

Looks like our cars may be done around the same time Mikey and Rock! You be reppin the West Coast Rockman rep's the Midwest and Ill rep the East

Originally Posted by Ted B

I'm not much of a 100mm stroke advocate, but I've been asked by the OP to chime in, so here it goes:

Even a 156mm rod with 100mm stroke crank gives a R/S ratio of only 1.56, or 4% better than a 150mm rod, which is minimal. Still, if it can be done rather easily, better 1.56 than 1.50.

The larger displacement and short rod ratio places greater demands on the intake port, which is no barn burner to begin with. Where the EVO head is concerned, I'm an advocate of porting to the very limit of what the casting will accept, simply because in this case, one runs out of metal before getting enough airflow. In my own situation, that required CNC porting and two sacrificial heads.

The 10:1 SCR is livable - just don't try to break power records with 93 octane. Make E85 the primary fuel.

I feel the I-beam rods are the best option for ultra high torque applications.

With respect to cams, longer effective duration is the rule for longer strokes and shorter R/S ratios. The slower piston movement around BDC reduces the sensitivity of the engine to delayed intake valve closing, while the increased acceleration away from TDC and higher SCR offset the negative impact of the longer duration at slower engine speeds.

I'm not sure so optimistic about the factory exhaust manifold (even ported) for this application. Some years ago, I bolted on a cheapie tubular to my TME turbo and saw an immediate torque improvement across the board. Both Full-Race and Shearer have tubular designs that should outperform the factory part, and of course, one never knows about missing power, unless of course he finds it.

As for adding meth injection, I'd pass on that idea. It's just another inevitable headache, and you'll run out of turbo capacity before you reach the limits of what E85 can handle. I converted my existing SMC injection setup to H2O, and use it only as a measure of forgiveness when running 93 octane.

Oh, if you're using a factory crank, I suggest Kiggly's top end oil pressure regulator. It's cheap means of ensuring full oil pressure to Mitsu's long stroke crankshaft, which is not optimized for high rpm oiling efficiency.

Just my $0.02 as requested.

Originally Posted by RockmanX

lol

shorties

2.0 3100
2.1 4600
2.2 ?? 9279.95 to much
2.3 3500
2.3RR 7999.95
2.4 3300
LR2.4 6500

built head

1700

i mean on average pricing i mean thats already 5900 on just the long block did not include core charges or all bolt ons or turbo upgrade or tune or guages lol your almost at 10k there with the longblock. unless your just doing bolt ons and turbo dont expect to really see whats going on or get the full use out of the parts.