atp 3071r with stock internal
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atp 3071r with stock internal
I have 2003 evo 8 with still stock engine internal. I installed a atp 3071r .63ar kit. I think it can start to kick in low rpm. what is the safe boost pressure and what is the safe minimum rpm for full boost? I dont want to bend my rods soon.
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Get rid of the ATP kit and install an FP Green or FP Red. Everyone will be much happier with the end result. Do a search for ATP and ATP 3071 kits. In my experience the 3071 is a complete waste of time on an Evo - no matter which kit it's on.
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i searched and read a lot. there is few nice thread about this, but i used gt3071r on other 2.0 turbo application. it was fine. Why can be that bad on evo? there was a lot of usefull info. its will be nice, i hope.
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i searched and read a lot. there is few nice thread about this, but i used gt3071r on other 2.0 turbo application. it was fine. Why can be that bad on evo? there was a lot of usefull info. its will be nice, i hope.
yes, i know, but low rpm boost(torque) can kill rods.
In My Opinion if it's tuned properly, and the engine is in good condition, you'll have a hard time killing the engine with that sized turbo.
Good Luck
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This is all "old tech" these days, though. With the advent of the stock framed FP turbos, there is absolutely no reason to go with a T3/T4 turbo on an Evo VIII/IX unless you're looking to go with something like an HTA 35R or bigger. An FP Green will dominate a 3071 in all categories; an FP Red will crush it. IMO even my 50 trim is obsolete. Although at 408wtq/480whp it is still a hella lot of fun.
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#11
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I am running the AMS 30R(same specs as urs) and I run 27LBS of boost, but as was mentioned by gsrboi80 u need a good tune and that will make ur discision for u.
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I had a 3071 .63ar on my car. It was mated to an AMS exhaust manifold. Spoolup was mediocre, as was power. Spoolup on the ATP kits was notoriously poor, so I can't see that performing any better than what I had. To make matters worse, the 3071 also surged (read: car shaking compressor surge) in 5th gear between 3000 and 3500 RPM. I ended up swapping it out for a 50 trim, lost almost no spoolup and gained a whole lot of power ... and no surging issues.
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alot of people take the stock engines to 500whp etc. but alot of people say 400ft/lb wheel torque is about the limit on stock rods/rod bolts.
In My Opinion if it's tuned properly, and the engine is in good condition, you'll have a hard time killing the engine with that sized turbo.
Good Luck
In My Opinion if it's tuned properly, and the engine is in good condition, you'll have a hard time killing the engine with that sized turbo.
Good Luck
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Cruising on the interstate and not wanting to downshift into 4th, that's why... and to me compressor surge is not normal, it is unacceptable. When I modify my car, I want it to perform at least as well as it did when I drove it off the dealer lot. Anything less reeks of backyard "engineering" and is summarily removed from my car. I understand not everybody is a perfectionist, so if surge is acceptable to you, then go right ahead.
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dont think i am a crappy 18years old baseball hat guy.
Last edited by aronmatic; May 26, 2010 at 10:22 AM.
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i think i was not clear. all turbos has surge line, as you know. i meant, if your car maped close to the surge line on 3rd gear, its will surge if your push wot at 5th gear on 3000rpm with this small turbine housing. i did not say, surging is good or normal, but if you use your car, like a guy, who are uderstand his car you can manage it. if not, your car has to be map near from surge line, its no way for surge.(like you bought at the dealer).
dont think i am a crappy 18years old baseball hat guy.
dont think i am a crappy 18years old baseball hat guy.
Depending on the boost controller you have you can also make the turbo spool less aggressively.
If you already have the ATP turbo on your car just try to limit the peak torque and stay under 1.5bar boost with at least a 100RON fuel and you should be fine, Water Alky injection is a must on the stock block...
.