Mini battery
Nov 13, 2003, 06:45 PM
#16
Nov 13, 2003, 07:06 PM
#17
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Originally posted by alex_alex
BMW does the same thing, in the trunk, unsealed.
BMW does the same thing, in the trunk, unsealed.
SC~
Nov 14, 2003, 01:30 PM
#19
We have priced some of the other small batteries out there. We have even bought some and had them sent here. This battery is rated at 800 cc. The retail price on it is over $200. We have to buy a pallet of these to even get the cost of the kit down to $225. The first couple kits we sold we lost money on because when I said they would be $225 I stuck to it. This was regardless of the fact that we paid almost that for the batteries.
Buying them by the pallet full we can get the cost down so it is worthwhile making the kit at the cost we are offering them. We have a CNC cut aluminum lower plate, CNC cut upper 304 stainless steel plate, two new long battery retaining bolts and wing nuts in the kit. We have to bend the lower plates when they come so they fit in the car. Not an easy kit to make fit correctly. The design of the plates were also considered so we could keep the weight down and still make sure it was strong enough to hold the battery in. The stock battery and tray weigh in at 37.1 pounds. Our entire kit is 17 pounds.
Sorry the price seems high, believe me, we aren't making much on them.
Oh, these are also dry cell batteries.
Good luck,
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Buying them by the pallet full we can get the cost down so it is worthwhile making the kit at the cost we are offering them. We have a CNC cut aluminum lower plate, CNC cut upper 304 stainless steel plate, two new long battery retaining bolts and wing nuts in the kit. We have to bend the lower plates when they come so they fit in the car. Not an easy kit to make fit correctly. The design of the plates were also considered so we could keep the weight down and still make sure it was strong enough to hold the battery in. The stock battery and tray weigh in at 37.1 pounds. Our entire kit is 17 pounds.
Sorry the price seems high, believe me, we aren't making much on them.
Oh, these are also dry cell batteries.
Good luck,
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Nov 17, 2003, 06:32 AM
#21
I asked everyone here if they have heard of anyone running it with the stock airbox. Noone can say for sure. I am going to say it will fit. I can send one if you like and if you try it and it doesn't fit I will return your money. Just don't damage it.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Nov 18, 2003, 08:01 PM
#22
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Nov 18, 2003, 09:03 PM
#23
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Whoa, are all dry cell batteries rechargeable? Otherwise, I'd gladly shell out for that battery if I can just recharge it whenever it dies!
That dyna-batt looks like good bang for buck, too bad CCA is only 550. That's not too shabby though, I don't think... I wonder if it'll hold up in the cold wet winters we have here in VA?
That dyna-batt looks like good bang for buck, too bad CCA is only 550. That's not too shabby though, I don't think... I wonder if it'll hold up in the cold wet winters we have here in VA?
Nov 19, 2003, 06:43 AM
#25
Following in our footsteps, the best way for companies to get ahead, the 15 year pattern continues for EVO companies.
RnR, I see you have released your short upper i/c pipe kit, good idea to follow along with what we did. I see you have the mini battery kit too, good idea to follow along with what we did.
No pictures of either on your site though. I was interested to see how close they are to ours that have been out there for nearly 9 months now. Going to post pictures and specs soon?
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
RnR, I see you have released your short upper i/c pipe kit, good idea to follow along with what we did. I see you have the mini battery kit too, good idea to follow along with what we did.
No pictures of either on your site though. I was interested to see how close they are to ours that have been out there for nearly 9 months now. Going to post pictures and specs soon?
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Nov 19, 2003, 10:25 AM
#27
Wet Cell batteries in the trunk only need to be in a sealed box if the car has no rear firewall (hatchback). Otherwise it is safe to use a normal box (recommended due to potential acid leakage).
This is the NHRA rules on trunk batteries. If you are using a dry cell battery then it just has to be properly mounted and not in a box at all.
If anyone has ever taken the trim off the inside of the trunk area you would notice the large air escape vent on the driver's side to allow the air to flow out of the interior of the car. These are very common and are more then substantial to vent the trunk of any gases the battery may produce. Batteries normally do not put off much of any hydrogen gas into the atmosphere unless are being rapid charge from a dead state or excessively charged (faulty electrical system). Normal gas expulsion is due to the boiling off of the water from the acid in the battery when it is subjuct to excessive charging. Naturally the boiling process carries off some hydrogen gas in the process.
For anyone who has a trunk mount battery, I'd like to know how you ran the positive cable to the front and if you fuesed the positive cable at the battery to prevent a short to ground causing a fire or a battery explosion. I have seen a battery blow up during a charge when the charger cable was moved and caused a spark. It blew the hood up all the way and sounded like a shotgun blast. It also sent acid everywhere and the whole case of the battery was basically split in half. Not a pretty site.
I am currently working an Optima replacement and relocation to the trunk. I already mounted a billet mount in the trunk and have everything run for the cables. I just need to ditch the orig. battery and make my connections under the hood. I may not do that until I get a suitable fuse for the positive cable.
I ended up running the positive cable along the door sill on the drivers side and exiting into the fender area with the harness. One thing I do not like is it was a tight fit in the fender area when reinstalling the inner fender well. I also was using 1 gauge wire, which is probably a little overkill for a 4 cylinder. 2 gauge would have been easier to work with.
This is the NHRA rules on trunk batteries. If you are using a dry cell battery then it just has to be properly mounted and not in a box at all.
If anyone has ever taken the trim off the inside of the trunk area you would notice the large air escape vent on the driver's side to allow the air to flow out of the interior of the car. These are very common and are more then substantial to vent the trunk of any gases the battery may produce. Batteries normally do not put off much of any hydrogen gas into the atmosphere unless are being rapid charge from a dead state or excessively charged (faulty electrical system). Normal gas expulsion is due to the boiling off of the water from the acid in the battery when it is subjuct to excessive charging. Naturally the boiling process carries off some hydrogen gas in the process.
For anyone who has a trunk mount battery, I'd like to know how you ran the positive cable to the front and if you fuesed the positive cable at the battery to prevent a short to ground causing a fire or a battery explosion. I have seen a battery blow up during a charge when the charger cable was moved and caused a spark. It blew the hood up all the way and sounded like a shotgun blast. It also sent acid everywhere and the whole case of the battery was basically split in half. Not a pretty site.
I am currently working an Optima replacement and relocation to the trunk. I already mounted a billet mount in the trunk and have everything run for the cables. I just need to ditch the orig. battery and make my connections under the hood. I may not do that until I get a suitable fuse for the positive cable.
I ended up running the positive cable along the door sill on the drivers side and exiting into the fender area with the harness. One thing I do not like is it was a tight fit in the fender area when reinstalling the inner fender well. I also was using 1 gauge wire, which is probably a little overkill for a 4 cylinder. 2 gauge would have been easier to work with.
Last edited by timzcat; Nov 19, 2003 at 10:29 AM.
Nov 19, 2003, 03:07 PM
#28
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We had these parts in development way before you ever had any pics of these units on your site. We don't copy, we innovate. In my opinion our FMIC kit is better than yours so there is no need to argue with you.
Just wait until you see pics of our turbo kit.
I pm pics of these parts to EVO members all the time so they know what they are getting.
Just wait until you see pics of our turbo kit.
I pm pics of these parts to EVO members all the time so they know what they are getting.
Aug 13, 2004, 12:42 AM
#29
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gets it started every time with an ems even...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=35594
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=35594
Last edited by gt40; Aug 13, 2004 at 12:50 AM.
