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Old Jul 1, 2010, 08:39 PM
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Stroker kit

I'm looking to rebuild my motor with a 2.3 stroker kit. Has anyone used the eagle rods and crank with the wiseco pistons kit? Is this stuff any good? Any recommendations?
Old Jul 27, 2010, 01:23 AM
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search around champ, I'm sure you will find 100's of combos that work well.
Old Jul 27, 2010, 10:46 AM
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I've also been considering going the stroker route, as i want to stick with the stock turbo for the response aspect.

I was wondering if a stroker kit will decrease the ability to rev up to 9k+ rpm, and what kind of HP/TQ increases would be expected.

I relize with a stock turbo there is no need for 9k rpm, but just wondering what the overall affects would be of the stroker kits.
Old Jul 27, 2010, 10:31 PM
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Yes you cant rev a stroker up to 9k and expect it to last a long time. The safe limit on a stroker 2.3l is anywhere from 8k-8.5k depending on the parts used and the machine work. The cool thing is that you dont have to rev as high in order to make some good munbers, as boost comes on quicker, and so does hp and tq. It's pretty cool to see what 15% extra motor can do.
Old Jul 27, 2010, 11:11 PM
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Ams/hks?/cosworth all make stroker kits for our car check them out some good read on all of them cosworth is a little pricey but we all know that!
Old Jul 27, 2010, 11:37 PM
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Or you could just use an OEM crank that has been proven to make at least 900whp and over 700 numerous times with just eagle rods and off the shelf pistons...for a fraction of the price of a "kit". Just piece your own kit together unless you have money to throw away.
Old Jul 28, 2010, 07:39 AM
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go with AMS or HKS ....... I have 2.3 HKS kit and it's all good
Old Jul 28, 2010, 08:53 AM
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Or, instead of spending $5k or $6k, take a look at some prices I just found
OEM crank: $380
Manley pistons w/rings: $471
Eagle rods: $309

TOTAL: $1160. All those prices except for the crank are form extremepsi's website.
Old Jul 30, 2010, 08:57 AM
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Wow where did you see a new OEM crankshaft for $380? I'ts normally well over $600 bucks. Either way yes you can piece together way cheaper than other kits.
Old Aug 1, 2010, 04:14 PM
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I used eagle crank, manley i beam rods and wiseco pistons. I'm still on standard 8MR turbo (for now) and it can rev to about 6,800. it made 415/405 at the fly at 1.8 Bar boost and it feels alot smoother to drive since been stroked and pulls very well in every gear
Attached Thumbnails Stroker kit-latest-mods-1465.jpg  
Old Aug 2, 2010, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by usacchamp
I'm looking to rebuild my motor with a 2.3 stroker kit. Has anyone used the eagle rods and crank with the wiseco pistons kit? Is this stuff any good? Any recommendations?
That setup would be good to 550tq, the limit of the eagle rods. Honestly, pay the extra couple hundred and grab some good I beam rods. The stock 4G64 crank is good for 700+hp. The only problem noted with the stock cranks so far are crank failures during launching. If you don't launch your car on a regular basis then the stock crank would be fine. There are a number of cars in the 700hp range on the stock crank and 2 cars at the 1000hp number with stock crank without any failures yet. The launching problems we have seen so far may honestly be an install issue but can't be 100% sure at the moment. There needs to be some more stress put on my motor

Originally Posted by devolutiongsr
I've also been considering going the stroker route, as i want to stick with the stock turbo for the response aspect.

I was wondering if a stroker kit will decrease the ability to rev up to 9k+ rpm, and what kind of HP/TQ increases would be expected.

I relize with a stock turbo there is no need for 9k rpm, but just wondering what the overall affects would be of the stroker kits.
With stock turbo on a 2.3 or 2.4 your car will peak power at about 5500 if you are running a good combo. First, based on the stock turbo you can't really make power over 6500, revving to 9k would just be plain stupid, at best... Not to mention you will begin to over spin the **** out of the turbo and it won't last either.

When talking about revving a 100mm stroke motor to 9k, that becomes the second problem. With a 100mm stroke you start to cross the 150ft/sec piston speed around 8k. Many of people rev out to 8500 and have had success but revving a 100mm motor to 8500+ and over 160ft/sec piston speeds are asking for trouble, no other way of putting it! That is the difference of your motor lasting 20,000 miles or 5,000 miles. If you run a long rod combo you can help reduce side load wear and stress on the wrist pin allowing for you to rev a bit higher, more safely... However the peak piston speed doesn't change, just the mean piston speed...

I rev my LR 2.4 to 8k on the streets and 8.5k on the track. I don't have a doubt in the world that my motor will last.

You should also look into getting an AMS oil pan for your build. The stock oil pickup tube and pan are not meant to handle the power/tq that you will be putting down. It become really easy to starve your oil pump which in turn will destory your turbo and bearings. Not something that you want to deal with after you spend 3-4k on bulding the motor. Do it right the first time, just my 2 cents.

Originally Posted by 420a-t
Yes you cant rev a stroker up to 9k and expect it to last a long time. The safe limit on a stroker 2.3l is anywhere from 8k-8.5k depending on the parts used and the machine work. The cool thing is that you dont have to rev as high in order to make some good munbers, as boost comes on quicker, and so does hp and tq. It's pretty cool to see what 15% extra motor can do.
Completly agree.

Kevin revs his 2.3 to 9300 however he has about 3x the amount of money in his motor than 95% of us running strokers... He also has to replace his bearings after 10 traps. He also has a few tricks up his sleeve that allows him to make power in that rpm range and his rotating assembly is fairly light allowing him to rev higher with a lower amount of stress... Another important aspect if you are looking to rap your motor out to the limits.

2.3 = 15% 2.4 = 20%

Yes, you will be extrememly impressed with the difference of going from the 2.0 to the stroker. If I can stress one thing to people that are upgrading to a stroker, "you have to run a larger cam than a 2.0, to flow the extra 15-20% air that is required from the 2.3 or 2.4." Wiseco HD pistons are the way to go, period! Just make sure that when ordering the piston you tell Wiseco that you are planning to run a cam with a 13-14mm lift. You will want to run a "stroker cam" with a large effective duration and lift (12mm). Contact Aaron at ER and Grab a set of Custom GSC stroker cams for your build. I ran a HKS 272/280 combo in my 2.4 and it chocked the **** out of the motor above 6k. We installed these cams and I picked up 90hp just from a straight swap. On my black I made 613hp on only 25psi If your motor can't flow the amount of air required, your car won't make power!

Another opion would be looking at running LR 2.4... It is about the same price as a std 2.3 however you will make more power, more tq, and you will be able to rev higher and safer!

Good luck with what ever route you decide to do.

Mikey

Last edited by BLKCarbonEVO; Aug 2, 2010 at 06:46 AM.
Old Aug 2, 2010, 08:52 AM
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listen to mikey above man knows whats up there are alot of stroker 2.3 setups already done proven companies

jms racing
buschur
ams
map
english racing

can make you a 2.3 or make you a kit as well. but the 2.4 game is the new fad and i agree with mikey love the 2.4 over the 2.3 but again everything he stated was true
Old Aug 21, 2010, 11:17 AM
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wow thanks guys
Old Aug 21, 2010, 11:27 AM
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I ran the AMS 2.3 Kit and loved every second of it...

With my setup, it helped take my car from 499 whp and 430 to 500 whp and 483 torque and that was with crappy hks 272 cams with the stroker.

I would run either AMS or Buschur..... Two of the top shops in the game and pruven to be the fastest in the game.

I didn't gain much horsepower but I made it at lower psi.... the torque is amazing.

Last edited by 2003lancerevo8; Aug 21, 2010 at 11:30 AM.
Old Nov 22, 2014, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by BLKCarbonEVO
That setup would be good to 550tq, the limit of the eagle rods. Honestly, pay the extra couple hundred and grab some good I beam rods. The stock 4G64 crank is good for 700+hp. The only problem noted with the stock cranks so far are crank failures during launching. If you don't launch your car on a regular basis then the stock crank would be fine. There are a number of cars in the 700hp range on the stock crank and 2 cars at the 1000hp number with stock crank without any failures yet. The launching problems we have seen so far may honestly be an install issue but can't be 100% sure at the moment. There needs to be some more stress put on my motor



With stock turbo on a 2.3 or 2.4 your car will peak power at about 5500 if you are running a good combo. First, based on the stock turbo you can't really make power over 6500, revving to 9k would just be plain stupid, at best... Not to mention you will begin to over spin the **** out of the turbo and it won't last either.

When talking about revving a 100mm stroke motor to 9k, that becomes the second problem. With a 100mm stroke you start to cross the 150ft/sec piston speed around 8k. Many of people rev out to 8500 and have had success but revving a 100mm motor to 8500+ and over 160ft/sec piston speeds are asking for trouble, no other way of putting it! That is the difference of your motor lasting 20,000 miles or 5,000 miles. If you run a long rod combo you can help reduce side load wear and stress on the wrist pin allowing for you to rev a bit higher, more safely... However the peak piston speed doesn't change, just the mean piston speed...

I rev my LR 2.4 to 8k on the streets and 8.5k on the track. I don't have a doubt in the world that my motor will last.

You should also look into getting an AMS oil pan for your build. The stock oil pickup tube and pan are not meant to handle the power/tq that you will be putting down. It become really easy to starve your oil pump which in turn will destory your turbo and bearings. Not something that you want to deal with after you spend 3-4k on bulding the motor. Do it right the first time, just my 2 cents.



Completly agree.

Kevin revs his 2.3 to 9300 however he has about 3x the amount of money in his motor than 95% of us running strokers... He also has to replace his bearings after 10 traps. He also has a few tricks up his sleeve that allows him to make power in that rpm range and his rotating assembly is fairly light allowing him to rev higher with a lower amount of stress... Another important aspect if you are looking to rap your motor out to the limits.

2.3 = 15% 2.4 = 20%

Yes, you will be extrememly impressed with the difference of going from the 2.0 to the stroker. If I can stress one thing to people that are upgrading to a stroker, "you have to run a larger cam than a 2.0, to flow the extra 15-20% air that is required from the 2.3 or 2.4." Wiseco HD pistons are the way to go, period! Just make sure that when ordering the piston you tell Wiseco that you are planning to run a cam with a 13-14mm lift. You will want to run a "stroker cam" with a large effective duration and lift (12mm). Contact Aaron at ER and Grab a set of Custom GSC stroker cams for your build. I ran a HKS 272/280 combo in my 2.4 and it chocked the **** out of the motor above 6k. We installed these cams and I picked up 90hp just from a straight swap. On my black I made 613hp on only 25psi If your motor can't flow the amount of air required, your car won't make power!

Another opion would be looking at running LR 2.4... It is about the same price as a std 2.3 however you will make more power, more tq, and you will be able to rev higher and safer!

Good luck with what ever route you decide to do.

Mikey
Would a kelf 272 272 with a fp black be efficient for a 2.3? I understand it prob isn't the best but it's what I have and I'm looking into a 2.3
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