What clamps do you guys have?
#1
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What clamps do you guys have?
I was driving down the free way a few days ago when I heard a loud pop and my car jus shut off. The tbolt holding my uicp to the intake mani popped off. Luckily I had a spare normal clamp in my car and I was able to low boost it back home. So I was wondering what clamps everyone was using? I don't wanna get another cheap tbolt clamp from my local autozone & I've found hundreds of different clamps on eBay. Thanx for all your guys help in advance. Cheers!
#3
Evolved Member
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T-bolt clamps. Clampco and Breeze are some MFGs. You can get a complete kit for your car from www.siliconintakes.com or hit up Michael at ETS.
Proof they work.
http://www.youtube.com/user/cooterki.../0/NxuC6j_kRzw
Proof they work.
http://www.youtube.com/user/cooterki.../0/NxuC6j_kRzw
#4
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I use the ones from http://www.racepartsolutions.com/products.asp?cat=27
Their t-bolts are american made 5 Star Manufacturing clamps at a reasonable price. Plus they dont have the square end, so when you are tightening it down with a box end wrench, it wont get caught on the edges like with breeze t-bolts.
Their t-bolts are american made 5 Star Manufacturing clamps at a reasonable price. Plus they dont have the square end, so when you are tightening it down with a box end wrench, it wont get caught on the edges like with breeze t-bolts.
#6
EvoM Guru
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I recommend avoiding T-bolt clamps. They look trick, but we've seen quite a few instances whereby they create a pinch point that sooner or later causes sealing issues with thinwall IC tubing. T-bolt clamps look trick, but the design is not without drawbacks.
I've ditched my T-bolt clamps in favor of 2 regular worm clamps on every joint, which hold 40 psi in my setup without a hiccup. Since going this route a year ago, I no longer have sealing issues or distorted tube ends.
FYI
I've ditched my T-bolt clamps in favor of 2 regular worm clamps on every joint, which hold 40 psi in my setup without a hiccup. Since going this route a year ago, I no longer have sealing issues or distorted tube ends.
FYI
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#8
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I wouldnt like to use T bolt clamps on aluminum Ic piping because its easy to overtorque and get the piping out of round. If you have SS ic pipes then you can get away with snugging down the clamps a bit more without worries. I would sooner use ABA clamps before using the oem style.
#9
Evolved Member
iTrader: (32)
I recommend avoiding T-bolt clamps. They look trick, but we've seen quite a few instances whereby they create a pinch point that sooner or later causes sealing issues with thinwall IC tubing. T-bolt clamps look trick, but the design is not without drawbacks.
I've ditched my T-bolt clamps in favor of 2 regular worm clamps on every joint, which hold 40 psi in my setup without a hiccup. Since going this route a year ago, I no longer have sealing issues or distorted tube ends.
FYI
I've ditched my T-bolt clamps in favor of 2 regular worm clamps on every joint, which hold 40 psi in my setup without a hiccup. Since going this route a year ago, I no longer have sealing issues or distorted tube ends.
FYI
I've broken worm clamps when couplers have blown off. Make sure the worm clamp isn't serrated and won't cut your couplers.
I run .065" wall Aluminum charge pipes with the clampco t-bolts SUPER tight. No leaks, no breaks, no service work involved. N
No offense Ted, but I run more boost than you
#13
I run the t bolts and they work well for my car but then I'm only at a 28 psi peak not like those other guys .. I got mine at siliconeintakes also so maybe you can decide to check it out if I remember correctly there's a kit you can buy for the Evo
#14
Evolved Member
http://www.breezeclamps.com/ct.htm
These are the best, and least maintenance. Doesn't distort aluminum tubes, doesn't loosen up and requires zero maintenance. I've had mine well over 120k and not one issue.
These are the best, and least maintenance. Doesn't distort aluminum tubes, doesn't loosen up and requires zero maintenance. I've had mine well over 120k and not one issue.
#15
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I've been considering something a little different. For me, three things are important.
Reusable
Allow movement
Cost
T-bolts squish thin-wall aluminum, which sucks
Adel Wiggins and other high end quick disconnects fit well on the first two but are out of my budget
V-bands alone won't allow movement between the motor and intercooler.
What I will likely do is O-ring'd V-bands for the connections where I would actually remove the piping. Then silicon hump hoses and Oetiker double pinch clamps mid pipe to deal with movement. Doubled up with a small bead I think those clamps could just about hold anything. The V-bands are pretty cheap compared to the other quick disconnect stuff. As a system, I think it would split the difference on price between the high end clamps and simple T-bolts.
Reusable
Allow movement
Cost
T-bolts squish thin-wall aluminum, which sucks
Adel Wiggins and other high end quick disconnects fit well on the first two but are out of my budget
V-bands alone won't allow movement between the motor and intercooler.
What I will likely do is O-ring'd V-bands for the connections where I would actually remove the piping. Then silicon hump hoses and Oetiker double pinch clamps mid pipe to deal with movement. Doubled up with a small bead I think those clamps could just about hold anything. The V-bands are pretty cheap compared to the other quick disconnect stuff. As a system, I think it would split the difference on price between the high end clamps and simple T-bolts.