Teal2nnr

iTrader: (7)

I'm Canadian you ****tard, you NZ'ers don't know how to read. It was the crank not machined properly itself in the EVO 4 + and - that was the issue...

RSMike

iTrader: (1)

sorry, tomato - tomatoe
i thought it was the block that was the actual problem, not the crank.
I'm far from anti American, you have some good stuff like Shania Twain and Avril Lavigne

joyce1bro

The crank in an evo 4 is not the problem its the block itself that causes the crankwalk as Mike has said.... If I can remember rightly its to do with the thrust bearing design on the block... I myslef would not purchase and build an evo 4 block... Its a matter of when, not if regardless of how great or expensive your internals are!!

project_skyline

iTrader: (30)

If you do stroker I suggest GSC S2's and if you stay 2.0 then do S1's.

880's would be a good choice if you never plan on upgrading the turbo but do need more fuel for more power.

I'd run stock crank, its been tried and tested to be one bad *** OEM part.

3gEclipseTurbo

iTrader: (12)

Cheapest route to go would be a 2.4l. And the most fun for the street!!!! You dont need to rev to the moon just be carefull you dont get whipflash from the tq.

RoadSpike

iTrader: (5)

Pretty much meant s2 stye cams but they require springs at the very least. I guess you could use kelford but its really your personal choice.

I don't think 1mm valves are worth it without porting the head imho. I like having things done once.

The TME wheels I've heard explode when over spun. Your stroker will be fine :P

KX250Fmotoracer

I know the crank doesn't cause crank walk, I'm not really worried about that. I will chamfer the main bearing so that the thrust bearing has an oil feed. The car is just going to be my play car, so it wont see very high mileage and hopefully the thrust bearing wont fail!

The reason I wanted to upgrade the crank is Mitsubishi's technical info manual on lancerregister.com says that one difference between the evo IV and V is that the crank on the V+ is hardened. I assume that means that the IV crank is weaker? Does anyone know what the IV's limit is?

And RS Mike- You're lucky! I'm working on importing an Evo VI GSR rolling chassis from England, and its a MAJOR pain in the ***! If anyone knows of a good customs broker- send me a PM or something. I cant find anyone willing to do it!!!

Hmm never heard of that happening w/ the TME turbo. If it does nuke itself I can always upgrade it. I really need to worry about getting all of my really important parts into the country first haha.

project_skyline- You'd go bigger than 880's? How big do I need to go, I'm not looking to make a dyno queen! If I go too large the engines going to run like garbage in the lower RPM's, wont it?

Roadspike- I took a look at AMS's cam shootout and it looks like the kelsford made a lot of power down low, that the only reason I chose it over the S2. Since I wouldn't be revving the thing over 7K, I figured it was a good match. I could be completely wrong though, as I am pretty new to Evo's, except from what stuff I read on forums!

If anyone thinks I'm going about my engine the wrong way, let me know!

RoadSpike

iTrader: (5)

The wheel apparently couldn't handle the stress and there were reports of the wheels exploding at greater than stock boost levels. It really depends on your goals you already have the turbo I say use it until it dies then consider what to do from there .

Injector sizes depend really on your power goals. For most mild turbos 880's should be fine as long as you remain using pump gas and not ethanol. If you do plan to do ethanol a much bigger fuel system is recommended becuase trust me its hard to walk away from power lol

Far as the cams go I guess its all about personal choice. Just remember the more aggressive the cam the more its going to lope.

sparky

iTrader: (1)

It was the turbo used on the JDM, and British IX RS that had the problems. These turbos came configured with the ill-fated Magnesium compressor wheel. These units experienced failures related to compressor wheels shattering at higher shaft speeds.

On the other hand, the JDM VIII RS and earlier series JDM RS turbos as well as the TME turbo were pretty much bulletproof. These turbos all came with a TiAl turbine wheel teamed with the stock 16G compressor wheel.

RSMike

iTrader: (1)

yeah, they TME turbo is a 6.5 turbo. Only the Magnesium evo9 turbo's self destructed. The compressor is goldy/bronze in colour.

If you have the Ti turbine version, you'll be very happy with the response. It's awesome! i was running an evo7 turbo at the start and it was so much fun. Click kicking in 2nd to get the car sliding!

I regret going to the FP Red, it's just too laggy a turbo. I should have gone Evo9 turbo with 10.5 exhaust housing. I'd recommend getting all your setup running, then see what you want to do from there. It all depends what you want the car for!
Good luck

KX250Fmotoracer

OK, well I now know that I am at least putting pistons in the engine. Just stripped it down to a bare bock and found 3 pistons ring lands cracked!

This makes my decision to stroke a little easier....

So, I'm a little curious about the pros/cons of a stroked 2.3 4G63 vs a 2.4 4G64??? I would be able to do all the machine work myself, so it would only be for the cost of parts. If I went with a 156mm rod on the 4G64, what pistons would I be able to use?

94AWDcoupe

iTrader: (125)

Lots of mis-information on the net about the evo 4 engine and crankwalk.
I have been building the 4g63 platform for 15 years. The evo 4 block is virtually identical to an evo 8 block. The internals are just as strong and no less capable. The evo 4 engine is not "more" likely to get crankwalk or crack pistons. pistons are same material and design as evo 8. only dish design is slightly different.

Crankwalk happens because the 7 bolt engine does not have a hardened crank. The 7 bolt engine from 1992.5 till 2006 is identical in strength and hardness including the crankshaft. The bearing surfaces are very easy to abrade. including the thrust surface. Crankwalk has nothing to do with block machining, thrust design, or crank machining. its most likely to happen to engines that dont get good quality synthetic oil and frequent oil changes. The us version 7 bolt and evo 4 both suffer in this regard so cases of crankwalk are more prevalent.

the 6 bolt engine came with hardened crank. very few cases of crankwalk from this engine. it has a 1 piece thrust bearing design.

I have been nitriding the 7 bolt cranks for 8 years now. this gives them the same surface hardness as a 6 bolt crank. you can use non synthetic oil with out fear of crankwalk. and you can get minor rod knock mishaps with out hurting crank.

project_skyline

iTrader: (30)

1000-1200's leave plenty of room for upgrades or fuel changes but will still run great.

FIC High Impedance 1050's or ID 1000's are awesome injectors if you can afford it otherwise I like PTE, RC, or standard FIC blue max injectors.

KX250Fmotoracer

Thanks for the info! I service my cars religiously at 3,000 miles and would use synthetic oil in this engine, so I guess I should be okay?

KX250Fmotoracer

An injector that big wouldn't dump too much fuel at low RPM? I'm only looking to make about 400 at the wheels.