what the hell is this noise?
Why was it burning that much oil?
Aug 21, 2010, 12:42 PM
#17
Oh man, I have the same noise but we were very certain it actually was only lifter noise in my car, it was making that noise the day I picked it up from David...and my head gasket just blew 3 days ago. I might take my oil pan off tonight to make sure my rods are ok and that it reeeeally just was a lifter tapping hard. My noise is from the top, not the bottom, so Im sure Im ok.
David does recommend using Penn 20w50 in his motors.
David does recommend using Penn 20w50 in his motors.
Aug 21, 2010, 12:53 PM
#19
to answer your questions guys I dont know why it burned so much oil. I took it to the ohio shootout and before I took it there I made sure it was full with oil and in those 850 miles 2-3 qts somehow disappeared. The motor had blowby from day 1, and compression kind of low but David builds his motors loose so this is expected. I suspect maybe I didnt break the motor in properly and that was the cause of all the oil burning maybe I dont know.. it never smoked tho when warmed up. Im as confused as you guys. I even seen my gauge showing 10-15 oil pressure and still went and drove car thats when the knock got REAL bad.. it was driving and still only 20psi of oil pressure, thats when i knew something really was wrong. Its my fault.. I had the chance to avoid this and figured the gauge was reading wrong and ignored it.. soon as i took the car out the noise got BAD.. so I'll chalk this one up as my screw up big time.. poor motor. I guess I'll just pull it and let David do it over again.
Aug 21, 2010, 12:54 PM
#20
lifters usual don't sound as loud.
Oh man, I have the same noise but we were very certain it actually was only lifter noise in my car, it was making that noise the day I picked it up from David...and my head gasket just blew 3 days ago. I might take my oil pan off tonight to make sure my rods are ok and that it reeeeally just was a lifter tapping hard. My noise is from the top, not the bottom, so Im sure Im ok.
David does recommend using Penn 20w50 in his motors.
David does recommend using Penn 20w50 in his motors.
Aug 21, 2010, 01:00 PM
#21
Oh man, I have the same noise but we were very certain it actually was only lifter noise in my car, it was making that noise the day I picked it up from David...and my head gasket just blew 3 days ago. I might take my oil pan off tonight to make sure my rods are ok and that it reeeeally just was a lifter tapping hard. My noise is from the top, not the bottom, so Im sure Im ok.
David does recommend using Penn 20w50 in his motors.
David does recommend using Penn 20w50 in his motors.
Last edited by tscompusa2; Aug 21, 2010 at 01:02 PM.
Aug 21, 2010, 02:52 PM
#22
my 2 cents are, lifters are collapsed, or you need to re-bleed them, rod knock ??
2nd,,, you are using way to thick of an oil for that motor unless you are running 350psi or over and 600 ponnies you are running to thick of oil.
let put it this way, 20w50 is like panckake syrup very think and hard for your oil pump to get through all the galleys , rod bearings, lifters,, this ussually causes premature wear when using thick oils on a tight toleranced car.
2nd,,, you are using way to thick of an oil for that motor unless you are running 350psi or over and 600 ponnies you are running to thick of oil.
let put it this way, 20w50 is like panckake syrup very think and hard for your oil pump to get through all the galleys , rod bearings, lifters,, this ussually causes premature wear when using thick oils on a tight toleranced car.
Aug 21, 2010, 03:54 PM
#24
and like you said the issue was most definate the engine being ran with low oil,,, and how the heck this it happen, burning oil, leak, ???
Aug 21, 2010, 04:00 PM
#25
i realized that after your video, and by looking at your sig that you do have a built motor and you are running nice amount of power, so stock motor apps does not apply to you.
and like you said the issue was most definate the engine being ran with low oil,,, and how the heck this it happen, burning oil, leak, ???
and like you said the issue was most definate the engine being ran with low oil,,, and how the heck this it happen, burning oil, leak, ???
Aug 21, 2010, 07:11 PM
#26
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I'm not sure how Buschur builds their motors, but Break in should be fairly simple. The motors i've built have only needed a few "mini" pulls on a dyno to be broken in, change the oil, put it back on the dyno and let it rip. (I went to school for high performance engine machining) I would say that something else was causing it to burn the oil. Not incorrect break in, unless as soon as you got it started you went and did a full boost run, without any loading on the motors for the rings to seat. Again, i'm not sure what Buschur has for equipment so i'm not sure what their RA's come out to be on their cylinder wall.
Its just my .02 cents something else other than break in was causing the oil burning
Its just my .02 cents something else other than break in was causing the oil burning
Aug 21, 2010, 07:35 PM
#27
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I'm real sorry to hear about your bad luck man I feel for you it plain sucks.The motor shouldn't be burning this much oil its to much even that's it's new and it will burn some to seat the rings..Lately I have been hearing that buschur's work has been slacking this is the 5 motor problem I HEARD within the last 3 months I was gonna get their stage 3block but not now..Davis should fix this for free even that you didn't check it shouldn't have buurned oil like this I know you put alot of money in this build so I'm curious to see how he handles this and what he tells you ..Good luck You can try COUPLE OF THING FIRST..
1.Put new bearings in .
2.Drain the block then flush it well.
3.Check the walls for score damage
4.Check the compression again
5.Put new oil and cross your fingers..
ps even if it's loose the compression shouldn't be low that's bull crap.
Last edited by 4doorstreetbike; Aug 21, 2010 at 07:49 PM.
Aug 21, 2010, 07:44 PM
#28
As loose as that rod is I would most likely say the rod journal is not salvagable on that crank and the rod is most likely beat out of round. This motor will need a complete rebuild. tscomp let me know if you want me to get you a crank. I have a used one available for a good price and can get you a new one at quite a discount.
I know Cr rings tend to take a while to seat and burning oil sucks. I have seen some motors with Cr rings take as many as 5K miles before they stopped burning oil then magically seal up and never burn a drop again. Another thing to note is tscompusa had kelford 272 so cranking compression with those most likely would result in lower #'s due to increased overlap. It is unfortunate that this went this way. If BR does anything about this I would be surprised as I would not personally hold them responsible. If they do help out that would be above and beyond.
I know Cr rings tend to take a while to seat and burning oil sucks. I have seen some motors with Cr rings take as many as 5K miles before they stopped burning oil then magically seal up and never burn a drop again. Another thing to note is tscompusa had kelford 272 so cranking compression with those most likely would result in lower #'s due to increased overlap. It is unfortunate that this went this way. If BR does anything about this I would be surprised as I would not personally hold them responsible. If they do help out that would be above and beyond.
Aug 21, 2010, 08:10 PM
#30
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