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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 01:51 AM
  #1  
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Stock block?

I want to do a build on my head. At the same time I was thinking of re building my block, my goal is to get 700 whp out of my evo. But to be more on a realistic level, im on a budget build, im trying to get the best bang for my buck.

What would be my best bet in this scenario?

How much can my stock block handle?

Will I need to run a double pumper set up ?

What do you reccomend for building a head? As in what kind of valve train? 272 or 280 cams ?

Also I really have my heart set on the front face manifold, I realize that most people think it is more of a " just for looks " mod but its what I want. What would you guys reccomend the size of turbo I should go for ?

Sorry for all the questions but I have been scouring through pages of great info and I just havent found all of the information I need to go through with my build.
Old Aug 24, 2010 | 02:46 AM
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It really depends on what you plan on using the Evo for after the build, Street, track AutoX etc. People are going to give you different opinions on what they think works better. If I was in your shoes, I would look at the different big time shops (AMS, BR, AWD) and start looking at what they run as far as the block, turbo, fuel system, clutch and driveline upgrades. Not to mention there are many threads on HP Evos and their builds on the forum. I'd keep reading and reading and reading. The more research you do the more you'll know about your motor once its built and have a better ability to take care of it. GL man.
Old Aug 24, 2010 | 09:12 AM
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Im trying to build it for the straight line. Thats my only purpose for the car atm.

Thanks man, I am just doing as much research as I can but I would like to get more opinions as well.
Old Aug 24, 2010 | 09:17 AM
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You need way more details, what parts do you have now. is the car for track only. 450-550 is all the stock block in going to take.
Old Aug 24, 2010 | 10:03 AM
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I am selling everything I have and starting fresh, my question is I want to try to keep my stock block as much as possible, if it can only handle 550 then thats fine for now, so what are the most essential parts I would need to get there.
Old Aug 24, 2010 | 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 42revoincali
I want to do a build on my head. At the same time I was thinking of re building my block, my goal is to get 700 whp out of my evo. But to be more on a realistic level, im on a budget build, im trying to get the best bang for my buck.

What would be my best bet in this scenario?

How much can my stock block handle?

Will I need to run a double pumper set up ?

What do you reccomend for building a head? As in what kind of valve train? 272 or 280 cams ?

Also I really have my heart set on the front face manifold, I realize that most people think it is more of a " just for looks " mod but its what I want. What would you guys reccomend the size of turbo I should go for ?

Sorry for all the questions but I have been scouring through pages of great info and I just havent found all of the information I need to go through with my build.
ok lets get real for a second. this is not the movies nor are you a big time shop that does not care what happens to the car as long as it meets a certain goal. YOU DO REALIZE a 700+whp evo is going to eventually be plauged with issues because of to much tq right things breaking so keep that in mind when you say you want that much power. Also any build of that magnitude your looking at 20k yes 20000 dollars in just parts and labor. even if you do the labor yourself your not getting below 17000. So im just throwing some facts at you. there is ALOT involved in building a high whp car. all the little things add up real quick I KNOW trust me. You say you want a budget build that those are more in the lines of 350-430. around 3000-7000 to get going. THe more whp your car has the more likely hood things will break naturally because of tq. If this is a track only NO DD duty car then by all means its cool but if its a part time DD as well its just not practical on a budget build. Example a exedy twin perfect dd/autox/drag/road course clutch is 1700 on its own accord but it will not hold what a 700+whp tq evo will lay down. so you have to go triple clutch welcome to 2600+ for just that one part. For a drag car you will need either a 2.0 or a 2.1. The 2.1 being way more ideal for it guess what $4,650.00 for just that block on average 2.0 are 3065. Dont forget you have to turn in a core charge for those motors. sO you looking at labor to have everything taken apart. All the little stuff never mention that goes into putting a block together

headgasket 50
both pullies 247
OEM Oil Pump 250
Water pump 150
ARP Main Studs 85
Rear Main seal 15
OEM Intake Manifold Gasket 25
EGR Delete Plate 15
Thermostat Housing Gasket 10
Machine Shop Cleaning the Block 100 (if you build it)
Camshaft Seals 15
Shipping
New Evo IX oil return line $85
guages(oil boost wideband)600

There is no such thing as a 700whp evo budget build your looking at a massive build did not even include drivetrain upgrades you will require a built tranny and TC 3000-4000 right there alone. Know what your getting yourself into before you think you can do it with 5k and hopes and dreams

Originally Posted by 42revoincali
I am selling everything I have and starting fresh, my question is I want to try to keep my stock block as much as possible, if it can only handle 550 then thats fine for now, so what are the most essential parts I would need to get there.
ITS NOT WHP THAT MATTERS ON STOCK BLOCK ITS TQ NUMBER ANYTHING OVER 420 TQ AND YOUR ON BORROWED TIME

Last edited by RockmanX; Aug 24, 2010 at 10:45 AM.
Old Aug 24, 2010 | 10:27 AM
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awesome info ^ thanks.
Old Aug 24, 2010 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 42revoincali
awesome info ^ thanks.
Np i just get tired of seeing threads about I want this whp and NOBODY EVER talks about the cost of things its nice to have 550whp evo but how much money and TIME was behind getting there is the true question now for 10k you can build a mean evo for sure but again when you say budget build your looking at modist numbers 320-420 which probaly put you 3000-5000 into it
Old Aug 24, 2010 | 11:09 AM
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Yeah well I figured I was going to buy brand new springs and retainers for the head, used cams and possible cam gears later on down the road, dont really need them now. Clutch wise stick with my oem flywheel, and grab an ACT clutch, sell my evo 8 turbo set up and go for a GT35R setup.

Shouldnt be more then 3500 for it all im hoping. Im most likely just going to be building a short block on the side and slowly put some money into it.
Old Aug 24, 2010 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 42revoincali
Yeah well I figured I was going to buy brand new springs and retainers for the head, used cams and possible cam gears later on down the road, dont really need them now. Clutch wise stick with my oem flywheel, and grab an ACT clutch, sell my evo 8 turbo set up and go for a GT35R setup.

Shouldnt be more then 3500 for it all im hoping. Im most likely just going to be building a short block on the side and slowly put some money into it.
thats sounds more reasonable i dont know about 3500 for all that pending price of the 35r kit and dont forget Labor you need to add arp headstuds into that and all the basic bolt ons
Old Aug 24, 2010 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by RockmanX
thats sounds more reasonable i dont know about 3500 for all that pending price of the 35r kit and dont forget Labor you need to add arp headstuds into that and all the basic bolt ons

No im sure I can find it all for around 3500 lol, im a smart shopper.

I actually am getting a head off of another member on here, since the head on mine has a stripped spark plug thread on the head and it looks way too damaged. So thats why I am doing my build now since it would save me money in the long run.

I can take mine off and do the headstuds at the same time + $ 100
The valve train ~ $ 400
Cams with gears $ 400
35R ~ $ 1500
Clutch with install $ ~ 1200

Also not needed but was deciding to just get spoolinup coils while im at it

so around $ 3500 - $ 4000.
Old Aug 24, 2010 | 12:46 PM
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CoP is good so you dont have a chance at misfiring and destroying things but at 320-420 its not needed 500+ is where it should come into play.

here is my Spoolin Up CoP


Last edited by RockmanX; Aug 24, 2010 at 12:48 PM.
Old Aug 25, 2010 | 12:39 PM
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that spoolin up cop is nice. how much did it all cost you with that nice carbon fiber top? I still need more parts. Modding is a pricy game, but once you have a fully built car you're in a "special class" of auto owner. it's all worth it when a random group of people in an m3 try to style on u then you boost from 0-45 mph instantly keeping it legal speed and not racing but still shattering their egos. i'm not going to build my transmission nor get an upgraded tcase since the 9 tcase is good but torque over 420 can break anything. 550/400 tq is my goal. And even that is pricy. But slowly and slowly it'll all come together. Just do it right nice and slow. at the end you're car is still faster accelerating and better handling than a 95k porsche for under 40k and that is the ultimate bottom line to the evo period

Last edited by Broham; Aug 25, 2010 at 12:42 PM.
Old Aug 25, 2010 | 01:08 PM
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I bought my spoolinup from the site itself used for 300 only because he had none new at the time and it looked and performs like new.

If you are starting up from scratch Rock is right.

I have alot of stuff already. Cams, Triple carbon clutch, shep stage 2 transmission, shep stage 3 transfer case, coilovers and to get a built block and a big turbo kit after labor will still be about 7-10k.....nothing budget about that.....and that would get me into the 600-700+.

I make decent money but there is more to life then a car and I see a lot of people build these fire breathing 650+ HP monsters and then a few months later they are selling them.
Old Aug 25, 2010 | 01:11 PM
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you would be set with a HKS DLI for a small set up like you are trying to do. Thats all i have on my car right now and im around 480hp. Also cam gears arnt to necessary to have either. But dont be to cheap with your cams, kelfords are probably the best to go with you wont be happy if you go cheap with some like HKS. Also lightweight parts will get you far in the long run with less breakage so do a fly wheel while your doing the clutch. get a AWD light weight Driveshaft and some other light parts. Also dont forget your fuel, if your going big you might as well get a double pumper and big injectors while your doing this mainly because you will spend the money twice for this small set-up then when you go for 700 you will need that stuff again.

Last edited by Draven83; Aug 25, 2010 at 01:13 PM.



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