ported my first evo head!!! (before and after pics)
Aug 24, 2010, 10:56 AM
#17
I could be wrong, but it looks like you may have taken a fair bit of material out from the throat of the valve seat? If so, I'd have the seat throat remachined to make sure they are still round. Just have the minimum taken out, the throat to face ratio is already pretty good stock. You get a seat with thin areas and they pull heat away from the valve funny. It can end up as a burnt valve.
Check your valve tip height after the valve job too, I have a feeling you are going to need to grind the seats pretty hard since you didn't protect them from your porting work.
Looks like you have a steady hand and a lot of patience though. Good work.
Check your valve tip height after the valve job too, I have a feeling you are going to need to grind the seats pretty hard since you didn't protect them from your porting work.
Looks like you have a steady hand and a lot of patience though. Good work.
STAY OFF THE SEATS MIKE!
Aug 24, 2010, 11:42 AM
#19
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i will let mike clarify, but yes the seats will be remachined with a 4-angle valve job on the intake, and a radius on the exhaust.
and the valve stem height will be adjusted for the cams i am using.
and the valve stem height will be adjusted for the cams i am using.
Aug 24, 2010, 12:32 PM
#20
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havent seen u on HT in a while eric, into evos now? nothing wrong with that, i wish i could afford one. anyways yeah i use to put dumby valves in to help protect the seats but since its gettina VJ it really doenst matter and im a little btter then i use to be. i promise they arent as bad as they look. i try not to hit the seats but it just happens some times when im unshrouding the valves, the grinder pulls off track. all that under cast kills me on these heads, i did open the seats up a bit just so the there wasnt a huge dip in right under the seat being that faisal is running stock valves. if he were running o/s valves it would have been way easier, i would have had my machinst bore the throats and then i would just blend where he stopped the boring. its going to get a 4 angle intake and radius exhaust cut and the valve tips will be ground accordingly, there shouldnt be any issues ive done lots of 1g 4g's like this before. im also gonna take pics after the machine work is done too and put them up. there is no attitude here so please dont take it that way, i would critique someone the same way lol. and like always thanks for the good words guys.
mike
mike
Aug 24, 2010, 01:08 PM
#22
havent seen u on HT in a while eric, into evos now? nothing wrong with that, i wish i could afford one. anyways yeah i use to put dumby valves in to help protect the seats but since its gettina VJ it really doenst matter and im a little btter then i use to be. i promise they arent as bad as they look. i try not to hit the seats but it just happens some times when im unshrouding the valves, the grinder pulls off track. all that under cast kills me on these heads, i did open the seats up a bit just so the there wasnt a huge dip in right under the seat being that faisal is running stock valves. if he were running o/s valves it would have been way easier, i would have had my machinst bore the throats and then i would just blend where he stopped the boring. its going to get a 4 angle intake and radius exhaust cut and the valve tips will be ground accordingly, there shouldnt be any issues ive done lots of 1g 4g's like this before. im also gonna take pics after the machine work is done too and put them up. there is no attitude here so please dont take it that way, i would critique someone the same way lol. and like always thanks for the good words guys.
mike
mike
but my focus has been on my own car, going racing, and having fun. I've spent too much time under a flourescent light working on neon parts. The head work looks really good. becareful the exhaust ports are more shallow than neon ports and you'll find the water jacket!
Have you flow benched the head yet? Amazing how similar the 4G63 is to the neon huh?
Aug 24, 2010, 01:26 PM
#24
I read the topic name probably different then I should have. I read it like "my first time doing head work" but your work is far better then that so I should have known better.
I can't tell if they are there or not in the pics, but my head had some odd casting around the valves. It was almost like the casting extended out to make more of a tulip shape around the valves. This was on the outer sides of the chambers and it basically made triangles on either side of the chamber. the step up in the center at the plug as a contiunation fo this shape. Kind of like the type of shape you get when you weld up the head into a clover shape (if that makes sense?). I left the majority of it there and just blended it more smoothly into the seat area. I figured Mitsubishi put it there for a reason and I don't know better so I should leave it alone.
Did you CC the chambers?
I can't tell if they are there or not in the pics, but my head had some odd casting around the valves. It was almost like the casting extended out to make more of a tulip shape around the valves. This was on the outer sides of the chambers and it basically made triangles on either side of the chamber. the step up in the center at the plug as a contiunation fo this shape. Kind of like the type of shape you get when you weld up the head into a clover shape (if that makes sense?). I left the majority of it there and just blended it more smoothly into the seat area. I figured Mitsubishi put it there for a reason and I don't know better so I should leave it alone.
Did you CC the chambers?
Aug 24, 2010, 02:00 PM
#25
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eric yeah i knew about the water jacket in the exhaust ports, brad at rlz tipped me off about that ont the 1g heads. i wish i had money to stop doing all this side work but like a dumbass i financed alot of stuff and now im paying for it, literally. i need to get one of my cars going already. i have not flow benched or cc'd anything yet, ill need the guides insatlled and the valve job and resurface done before i can do either one of those. i had a pic ill see if i can find it of the stock combo chamber, the valves were shrouded pretty bad. and as for the bits on the combo chamber i did use a carbide but at very low speed so it didnt grip and rip on something i didnt want it to, then i went over it with 60 and 120 grit cartridge roles to get it to what u see now.
mike
mike
Aug 26, 2010, 07:25 PM
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thanks, its going to the machine shop tomorrow and it should be at the flow bench by mid next week. im guessing 230-240cfm exhaust side and 260-270cfm intake side at .500" and 28" h20. i dont think thats to much to ask what do u guys think?
mike
mike
