Crank Sensor pickup plate on crankshaft.. SHOULD IT HAVE PLAY or be solid and tight?
#1
Crank Sensor pickup plate on crankshaft.. SHOULD IT HAVE PLAY or be solid and tight?
I'm replacing my crank sensor and I noticed the plate that slides through the pickup has left to right play.
I figure it is normal to have some front to back play to orient itself in the sensor but should I be able to move it from say 12:00 to 12:03????
Also--- looks like a real pain to route the wire behind the PS pump.... Any probs with doing a re-route?
THANKS!!!!!
I figure it is normal to have some front to back play to orient itself in the sensor but should I be able to move it from say 12:00 to 12:03????
Also--- looks like a real pain to route the wire behind the PS pump.... Any probs with doing a re-route?
THANKS!!!!!
Last edited by hoof hearted; Aug 26, 2010 at 06:22 PM.
#3
Funny you should mention that...
The bolt (with the 1/2" square hole) was loose in the crank when I was disassembling this mess...
This is my first foray into the motor of the mitsu but on my LSx cars the crankshaft bolts had a habit of backing out kinda regularly so I figured this was a non-issue...
The bolt (with the 1/2" square hole) was loose in the crank when I was disassembling this mess...
This is my first foray into the motor of the mitsu but on my LSx cars the crankshaft bolts had a habit of backing out kinda regularly so I figured this was a non-issue...
Last edited by hoof hearted; Aug 27, 2010 at 03:37 PM.
#5
I recently did mine (complete timing belt change included) and there should be no movement once you have it all buttoned back up and properly torqued. As you know, it is sandwiched between two gears (the timing belt bottom pulley and the larger diameter pulley behind the sensor plate/closest to the block). Make sure you line up the timing marks up correctly.
Once your are done, carefully rotate the crank by hand, clockwise, to make sure the blades go through the pickup without any obstructions. Once you are certain everything is back to where it should be, start her up and be on your way.
I would highly suggest you read up on the How To: Timing Belt just to make sure you are putting it all back together properly even if you are not replacing anything else. I'll look it up for you and post it back on here.
Here you go: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...placement.html
Here is another useful link for a list of How To's: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...rivetrain.html
Once your are done, carefully rotate the crank by hand, clockwise, to make sure the blades go through the pickup without any obstructions. Once you are certain everything is back to where it should be, start her up and be on your way.
I would highly suggest you read up on the How To: Timing Belt just to make sure you are putting it all back together properly even if you are not replacing anything else. I'll look it up for you and post it back on here.
Here you go: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...placement.html
Here is another useful link for a list of How To's: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...rivetrain.html
Last edited by SilverShadow03; Aug 27, 2010 at 04:04 PM.
#6
The trigger wheel shouldn't have any play, definatly not the amount you are suggesting, maybe 1-2 degrees is the most I have ever seen, any more and your car may run a little "weird" occasionally or throw a (I think it's p0500) crank position sensor malfunction, code.
I had a crank pulley come loose and my trigger wheel was beat up pretty bad, along with the sensor (aside from the noise, my car starting running real weird, like it was misfiring and quickly got to the point where it wouldn't really run, like 10-15 min on the highway. Lucky for me I found it while the big center bolt was still in there. Main timing sprocket was working it's way off too, chewed up the brand new timing belt too, also it bent the big center crank bolt a little. I ended up replacing the crank position sensor, trigger wheel, key, center crank bolt and the timing belt, everything else was unharmed.) I would suggest replace the trigger wheel along with the sensor and anything else that's damaged, avoid some strange issues later on.
My .02
Ps... I just woke up, if I'm not making any sense, or mis spelling everything, I'm sorry, just pm me.
I had a crank pulley come loose and my trigger wheel was beat up pretty bad, along with the sensor (aside from the noise, my car starting running real weird, like it was misfiring and quickly got to the point where it wouldn't really run, like 10-15 min on the highway. Lucky for me I found it while the big center bolt was still in there. Main timing sprocket was working it's way off too, chewed up the brand new timing belt too, also it bent the big center crank bolt a little. I ended up replacing the crank position sensor, trigger wheel, key, center crank bolt and the timing belt, everything else was unharmed.) I would suggest replace the trigger wheel along with the sensor and anything else that's damaged, avoid some strange issues later on.
My .02
Ps... I just woke up, if I'm not making any sense, or mis spelling everything, I'm sorry, just pm me.
#7
The trigger wheel shouldn't have any play, definatly not the amount you are suggesting, maybe 1-2 degrees is the most I have ever seen, any more and your car may run a little "weird" occasionally or throw a (I think it's p0500) crank position sensor malfunction, code.
I had a crank pulley come loose and my trigger wheel was beat up pretty bad, along with the sensor (aside from the noise, my car starting running real weird, like it was misfiring and quickly got to the point where it wouldn't really run, like 10-15 min on the highway. Lucky for me I found it while the big center bolt was still in there. Main timing sprocket was working it's way off too, chewed up the brand new timing belt too, also it bent the big center crank bolt a little. I ended up replacing the crank position sensor, trigger wheel, key, center crank bolt and the timing belt, everything else was unharmed.) I would suggest replace the trigger wheel along with the sensor and anything else that's damaged, avoid some strange issues later on.
My .02
Ps... I just woke up, if I'm not making any sense, or mis spelling everything, I'm sorry, just pm me.
I had a crank pulley come loose and my trigger wheel was beat up pretty bad, along with the sensor (aside from the noise, my car starting running real weird, like it was misfiring and quickly got to the point where it wouldn't really run, like 10-15 min on the highway. Lucky for me I found it while the big center bolt was still in there. Main timing sprocket was working it's way off too, chewed up the brand new timing belt too, also it bent the big center crank bolt a little. I ended up replacing the crank position sensor, trigger wheel, key, center crank bolt and the timing belt, everything else was unharmed.) I would suggest replace the trigger wheel along with the sensor and anything else that's damaged, avoid some strange issues later on.
My .02
Ps... I just woke up, if I'm not making any sense, or mis spelling everything, I'm sorry, just pm me.
Was your car acting anything like THIS?
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-4th-gear.html
I posted this up a loooong time ago.
I bought the car and immediately (before putting any miles on it ) had the timing belt done at a shop by my house so I never put the two together.... I figured the sometimes crappy running was why I got the car so cheap (it was $9900 with 62k miles on it!)
Misfire= belt incorrectly installed...(CRANKSHAFT BOLT NOT TORQUED)
Mechanic just cost me a bunch of my time (that's why I paid to have it done.... I can work on **** and even have a lift in my garage) but I have ZERO free time to do things I enjoy.
I have GSC cams and a IX turbo assy. to do AS TIME PERMITS!
At least now I know why the car ran like ***....
Thanks for your response... Maybe somebody else will find this useful.
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#9
Was your car acting anything like THIS?
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-4th-gear.html
I posted this up a loooong time ago.
I bought the car and immediately (before putting any miles on it ) had the timing belt done at a shop by my house so I never put the two together.... I figured the sometimes crappy running was why I got the car so cheap (it was $9900 with 62k miles on it!)
Misfire= belt incorrectly installed...(CRANKSHAFT BOLT NOT TORQUED)
Mechanic just cost me a bunch of my time (that's why I paid to have it done.... I can work on **** and even have a lift in my garage) but I have ZERO free time to do things I enjoy.
I have GSC cams and a IX turbo assy. to do AS TIME PERMITS!
At least now I know why the car ran like ***....
Thanks for your response... Maybe somebody else will find this useful.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-4th-gear.html
I posted this up a loooong time ago.
I bought the car and immediately (before putting any miles on it ) had the timing belt done at a shop by my house so I never put the two together.... I figured the sometimes crappy running was why I got the car so cheap (it was $9900 with 62k miles on it!)
Misfire= belt incorrectly installed...(CRANKSHAFT BOLT NOT TORQUED)
Mechanic just cost me a bunch of my time (that's why I paid to have it done.... I can work on **** and even have a lift in my garage) but I have ZERO free time to do things I enjoy.
I have GSC cams and a IX turbo assy. to do AS TIME PERMITS!
At least now I know why the car ran like ***....
Thanks for your response... Maybe somebody else will find this useful.
Again, I caught the problem real quick, and it was at least a year and a half ago, remembering the exact circumstances is a little tough.
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