Battery Relocation
Nov 24, 2003, 08:48 PM
#16
I am going to try and answer all the questions at once.
The battery mount is 4 -1/4 20 bolts through the floor of the trunk. NHRA requires 2 3/8 hold down bolts I think it would pass in that respect. As far as I know a box is not required on a sealed battery like an optima. I don't think they would even check on a run what you brung night at the dragstrip but I can find out the rule if needed and cover the terminals. Not real worried about that for the few times I may go to the track.
The cable kit came from Jegs and it is 1 gauge 133 strand copper, good price for what you get IMO. I ran the negative to one of the seatbelt mounting bolts for the rear seat. The positive runs tio the drivers side and then along the rocker sills on the inside of the car under the sill covers. It would have been easy with 2 gauge, 1 gauge is a little too thick. It goes up under the left side kick panel and exits into the drivers fender and runs with the factory harness into the engine compartment via the opening near the head light.
The connection up front for the power is a power distribution post.
Simply a stud in insulative plastic housing that can be mounted. The original connections can be unbolted from the positive clamp on the battery. This allowed me to reuse the factory fuse for the alternator and the cover. The ground is just using one of the battery tray mounting bolts to centralize. I shortened the neg. cable and removed the ear that mounted to the body on the strut tower.
I got the power distribution and the fuse assembly in the rear from west marine. They are not widespread I don't think but the parts are common boat parts. (www.westmarine.com)
I was going to use a bulhead connector but they are 1 1/4 inches hole size and it's hard enough to find a pass through now, let alone drill a hole that big. maybe someday when the engine is out I will try it. I already have 2 of them but didn't use them.
Along the way where the cable gets close to any edges I used 1/2 heater hose to protect the wire. It would take forever to actually wear through.
I think I got it all, I can post more pics by request if anyone wants to see something in particular. Although I am not pulling the interior panels back apart.
The battery mount is 4 -1/4 20 bolts through the floor of the trunk. NHRA requires 2 3/8 hold down bolts I think it would pass in that respect. As far as I know a box is not required on a sealed battery like an optima. I don't think they would even check on a run what you brung night at the dragstrip but I can find out the rule if needed and cover the terminals. Not real worried about that for the few times I may go to the track.
The cable kit came from Jegs and it is 1 gauge 133 strand copper, good price for what you get IMO. I ran the negative to one of the seatbelt mounting bolts for the rear seat. The positive runs tio the drivers side and then along the rocker sills on the inside of the car under the sill covers. It would have been easy with 2 gauge, 1 gauge is a little too thick. It goes up under the left side kick panel and exits into the drivers fender and runs with the factory harness into the engine compartment via the opening near the head light.
The connection up front for the power is a power distribution post.
Simply a stud in insulative plastic housing that can be mounted. The original connections can be unbolted from the positive clamp on the battery. This allowed me to reuse the factory fuse for the alternator and the cover. The ground is just using one of the battery tray mounting bolts to centralize. I shortened the neg. cable and removed the ear that mounted to the body on the strut tower.
I got the power distribution and the fuse assembly in the rear from west marine. They are not widespread I don't think but the parts are common boat parts. (www.westmarine.com)
I was going to use a bulhead connector but they are 1 1/4 inches hole size and it's hard enough to find a pass through now, let alone drill a hole that big. maybe someday when the engine is out I will try it. I already have 2 of them but didn't use them.
Along the way where the cable gets close to any edges I used 1/2 heater hose to protect the wire. It would take forever to actually wear through.
I think I got it all, I can post more pics by request if anyone wants to see something in particular. Although I am not pulling the interior panels back apart.
Nov 25, 2003, 12:29 PM
#20
Originally posted by mcR
where did u buy the mount and all the wires and connectors?
where did u buy the mount and all the wires and connectors?
Wire from Jegs
Battery at Pep Boys
connectors from West Marine
Thanks David, ironic you replied since I am looking at you I/C pipe.
Jan 27, 2004, 02:03 PM
#21
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Is 2gauge wire big enough? I found a universal kit with 2ga wire that 16' long.
here's the link
http://www.racenet.net/elec/tay-bat-relocation.php
they have one with an aluminum battery box for 105 and just the kit for 50. not a bad deal. what do you think???
here's the link
http://www.racenet.net/elec/tay-bat-relocation.php
they have one with an aluminum battery box for 105 and just the kit for 50. not a bad deal. what do you think???
Mar 14, 2004, 04:57 AM
#22
Originally posted by timzcat
I am going to try and answer all the questions at once.
The battery mount is 4 -1/4 20 bolts through the floor of the trunk. NHRA requires 2 3/8 hold down bolts I think it would pass in that respect. As far as I know a box is not required on a sealed battery like an optima. I don't think they would even check on a run what you brung night at the dragstrip but I can find out the rule if needed and cover the terminals. Not real worried about that for the few times I may go to the track.
I am going to try and answer all the questions at once.
The battery mount is 4 -1/4 20 bolts through the floor of the trunk. NHRA requires 2 3/8 hold down bolts I think it would pass in that respect. As far as I know a box is not required on a sealed battery like an optima. I don't think they would even check on a run what you brung night at the dragstrip but I can find out the rule if needed and cover the terminals. Not real worried about that for the few times I may go to the track.
At PIR (Portland International Raceway) late night drags (run what ya brung) they do in-depth tech inspections. As of last year anyway, they won't let you race with your battery in the trunk unless you have a firewall between your trunk and the passenger compartment. I'm not sure if this is NHRA or local policy but just to let people know some places _do_ check.
Mar 17, 2004, 03:29 PM
#23
That rule is about hatchbacks. They consider the package tray type setup with the seat back and all as a firewall. They don't want the battery in the same compartment as the driver.
I think a kill switch is required so I'd be in trouble anyway.
I think a kill switch is required so I'd be in trouble anyway.
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