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Off the shelf built short block options

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Old Sep 13, 2010, 01:35 PM
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Off the shelf built short block options

Well I have been tossing around the idea of getting a built shortblock. At first I thought to myself don't buy more than I need and just buy pistons, rods, rod bolts, bearings and get everything balanced, machined and put in my stock block. But as I started adding up the prices for these parts, I thought to myself holy cow fully built shortblocks from Buschur etc. really aren't that much more.

So what other options do we have, and what do they cost? I assume most places will allow you to sub parts in and out and pay the difference if you want something specific, but am I crazy or are the off the shelf blocks a pretty decent deal? I am not sure what labor is on installing a fully built block, but it can't or should I say shouldn't be that much.

Doing the build in my existing block would probably be near or above the $2500 mark....so why not pay the extra $500 or $1000 and get one complete, brand new and built with no wait time from the machine shop and just drop the stock head on it and be good to go in one day?

Any pros cons or perhaps other things I am not thinking of? LMK what you think.
Old Sep 13, 2010, 02:31 PM
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by JDMevoBOOST
Well I have been tossing around the idea of getting a built shortblock. At first I thought to myself don't buy more than I need and just buy pistons, rods, rod bolts, bearings and get everything balanced, machined and put in my stock block. But as I started adding up the prices for these parts, I thought to myself holy cow fully built shortblocks from Buschur etc. really aren't that much more.

So what other options do we have, and what do they cost? I assume most places will allow you to sub parts in and out and pay the difference if you want something specific, but am I crazy or are the off the shelf blocks a pretty decent deal? I am not sure what labor is on installing a fully built block, but it can't or should I say shouldn't be that much.

Doing the build in my existing block would probably be near or above the $2500 mark....so why not pay the extra $500 or $1000 and get one complete, brand new and built with no wait time from the machine shop and just drop the stock head on it and be good to go in one day?

Any pros cons or perhaps other things I am not thinking of? LMK what you think.
OK maybe its just me but I don't understand what your doing or asking really. A built MOTOR IS NOT CHEAP get that thought out of your head a lot of things have to go into it to make it right and last for awhile.

front case/gears 230
New pullies 250
Fluidmapr 265(should have one on all built motors period)
New HG 95
Arp Head studs 90(if you get reg)
timing belt 120
balance shaft belt if did not remove with BS elmination kit 65
water pump 170
alternator reuse old
starter reuse old
oil pan reuse old
new fluids and filter 100
Complete engine gasket kit (optional so will not add in the totals since its short block only and not built head as well)

that stuff then the price of the build block 3550 2.3 or 3050 for 2.0. Then you have a core charge on that as well lets say you have no core lets add another 1813 on top of that price-tag. Again its not cheap doing a built motor unless you have a baller machine shop that will cut you deals I would get it built by a company.

you again average prices now

Misc 1385
Motor 3550
total 4935

THAT'S JUST FOR PARTS BOSS LOL!! WE HAVE NOT FACTORED IN LABOR EITHER. most shops unless they cut you a package deal will be 86/hr. for sake of fighting let say they cut you a deal of 2000 to install everything

total 6935


Now you can chip at this total by finding deals on parts built motor etc but im just saying theres alot of people that dont talk about the misc items they just eat the cost and become a money tree to get it done.

OH BTW ON ANY OF THOSE TOTALS I DID NOT ADD IN THE 1813 IF YOU DID NOT HAVE A CORE EITHER
Old Sep 13, 2010, 02:44 PM
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I guess a big question is what is your budget? If your pocket book will allow it, call up AMS, Buschur ect... and buy a loaded short block or even a long block and call it a day. It's alot easier if your looking for minimal down time and peace of mind knowing it was assembled at a top notch facility. Personally that is exactly what I'll be doing with a long block for not wanting down time and to have a spare everything incase there is ever a problem. Some people might flame me for just buying and not building, but in the end its all the same out come of a built engine. Your pocket book controls all.

Last edited by EvoooB; Sep 13, 2010 at 02:47 PM.
Old Sep 13, 2010, 03:07 PM
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I'm doing the build it yourself route......in all honesty there are times that i wish i had just bought a motor from Buschur and been done with it....I'm having allot of machining done on my block...main studs, honing...etc. But that can all be arranged though a company like Buschur or AMS.

But its up to you, I kinda like building things myself...but thats just moi
Old Sep 13, 2010, 03:12 PM
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I guess my original question was to see what other off the shelf blocks people bought from what companies and for how much. I didn't read about the core charge from Buschur which makes a lot more sense now.

My block is perfectly fine, I just wanted to avoid down time since it's my daily. I know most car shops including machine shops lag and the last thing I want is thinking it will take a couple weeks and have it take a couple months. I'm well aware that building any part of the car isn't "cheap". But I plan on keeping my power level similar to what I have now, this isn't going to be some 700hp build. I just want to make sure my car is built tough enough for me to enjoy it at the current power level for a long time.
Old Sep 13, 2010, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bbyevo8u
check out slowboyracing
I would go with a more reliable source.
Old Sep 13, 2010, 03:21 PM
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Rock alot of the stuff you quoted is stuff he would need to replace anyway. Taking his estimate out of the original question.

The correct statement shouldve been a built block versus building your own block are closer in price then you think. If you have to open you motor to replace bitten end parts then yes going built block starts to look attractive
Old Sep 13, 2010, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by JDMevoBOOST
I guess my original question was to see what other off the shelf blocks people bought from what companies and for how much. I didn't read about the core charge from Buschur which makes a lot more sense now.

My block is perfectly fine, I just wanted to avoid down time since it's my daily. I know most car shops including machine shops lag and the last thing I want is thinking it will take a couple weeks and have it take a couple months. I'm well aware that building any part of the car isn't "cheap". But I plan on keeping my power level similar to what I have now, this isn't going to be some 700hp build. I just want to make sure my car is built tough enough for me to enjoy it at the current power level for a long time.
then there is no point in getting one if you dont plan on pushing 550+ and high psi the stocker is strong enough to handle your levels of power building the block is if you want more out of your evo. if you want to go the route your saying either buy another 4g63 block and send it off to get built while you drive yours OR GO WITH A 4g64 build and no core is required. anytime you change out the shortblock it will take some time and things do happen not to mention the shops workload etc. so there will be some down time where your going to have to drive something else for alittle bit.
Old Sep 13, 2010, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Green Meanie
Rock alot of the stuff you quoted is stuff he would need to replace anyway. Taking his estimate out of the original question.

The correct statement shouldve been a built block versus building your own block are closer in price then you think. If you have to open you motor to replace bitten end parts then yes going built block starts to look attractive
I did not word the thread nor ask the question in an unclear manor so i just went over it all thank you very much LOL
Old Sep 14, 2010, 03:22 PM
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I wasn't saying the correct statement shouldve came from you. I was saying the original posters question shouldve been different. I hate posting on this site from a phone. Sometimes my response is too short my bad
Old Sep 14, 2010, 08:12 PM
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Unless your current motor has issues these things do not all need replaced. I love how people have a 25K mile car and think they need a new oil pump and waterpump and pullies and everything else under the sun replaced. These things last a long time and dont NEED to be replaced in order to do a shortblock. All gaskets should be new. Timing belts should be replaced if it is not a kevlar belt. Fluidampr is not really needed on a 2.0 but is a nice piece for a 2.3/2.4L. You can spend way more money than necessary or you can be thrifty and inspect your existing parts and only replace what is needed. Pulleys dont go bad unless you bend them or want some bling. If you want bling polish or paint the old pullies. Why spend 250 on them?
Originally Posted by RockmanX
front case/gears 230
New pullies 250
Fluidmapr 265(should have one on all built motors period)
New HG 95
Arp Head studs 90(if you get reg)
timing belt 120
balance shaft belt if did not remove with BS elmination kit 65
water pump 170
alternator reuse old
starter reuse old
oil pan reuse old
new fluids and filter 100
Complete engine gasket kit (optional so will not add in the totals since its short block only and not built head as well)
Old Sep 19, 2010, 09:20 AM
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Old Sep 19, 2010, 09:35 AM
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Old Sep 19, 2010, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by batty200
Unless your current motor has issues these things do not all need replaced. I love how people have a 25K mile car and think they need a new oil pump and waterpump and pullies and everything else under the sun replaced. These things last a long time and dont NEED to be replaced in order to do a shortblock. All gaskets should be new. Timing belts should be replaced if it is not a kevlar belt. Fluidampr is not really needed on a 2.0 but is a nice piece for a 2.3/2.4L. You can spend way more money than necessary or you can be thrifty and inspect your existing parts and only replace what is needed. Pulleys dont go bad unless you bend them or want some bling. If you want bling polish or paint the old pullies. Why spend 250 on them?

X2.

I swear the evo community confuses me sometimes.


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