Anyone? I know there's a lot of gurus out there....

 

Pull your spark plus wires one at a time for no more than a few seconds..... you will hear if the sound is different or not and give you a idea on which cylinder there's is a problem.
Really look like my problem you can check the thread i started when looking for my trouble.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ying-tick.html

In fact it was a bad rod bearing i had

 

this was after i did lifters, did the idle for 30 seconds bring up to 3k for 10 seconds about 10 times. This video was when i held it at 3k

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xgO6-CZa1wI

 

Hey there crckheadjed. Maybe I can help shed some light on this (hopefully). I just replaced the lifters on my 4G37. Couple questions for you:

1.) How did you bleed your lifters? This is a good source for how to bleed them for the 4G63 https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...r-lifters.html

Not only did I bleed my lifters but I soaked them in oil for an hour and pumped them with my hand while submerged in oil. Make sure to use the oil that you use in your car for bleeding them.

2.) Did you replace all of them?

3.) Did you actually drive your car after you replaced your lifters? I still had lifter noise after I replaced them. I then drove my car and brought it to 5k rpms in second gear and let it decelerate in gear 2 times. This will help build the oil pressure and help your engine bleed the lifters out. I took my car on the highway for 2 exits and pulled off. The noise was completely gone. Even before I hopped on the on ramp the noise was completely gone. My engine sounds perfect now! I also picked up my lifters for 5 dollars a piece here: http://www.partsdinosaur.com

Hopefully this helps.

 

I ordered the JAM "no tick" lifters they come pre-bled just drop right in (per say instructions, plungers moved fine on all of them). And I did the recommended process to pump the lifters back up (idle for 30 seconds, bring to 3k rpm for 10 seconds, repeat till no noise). All lifters were replaced. The one thing is every lifter I pulled out was solid and had no give (meaning they were still fine anyways)


I drove the car about a total of 2 miles after hoping that with some load, and different rpm ranges the noise would go away. But it actually seems louder, if not the same as before.

 

I don't have any experience with those lifters. I could see the possibility that one lifter might not have been bled correctly or that it became "unbled" in the packaging\shelf life.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...hing-else.html

I just read this from tscompusa(although he did want the guy to pull of the pan and check for rod knock but that guys engine did not sound close to rod knock imho):

"i bet you're happy it wasnt the rod bearing.

as for the ticking like crazy its normal. start the car up let it get to running temp and then rev it and hold the rpm to 3500 rpm for 15 seconds then let off.. and repeat this about 10-15 times until the ticks are all gone this is documented in the service bulletins and this is how you fill the lash adjusters back up.


ADD:

btw if you bled them all and didnt notice anything weird with any, then chances are they are all fine. just do what i mentioned above and you should be tick free."

 

Do you have a stethoscope? This would help isolate the issue at hand.

One of the things that concerns me about that noise in your car, is that the noise goes away when it starts to idle, almost immediately.

 

I tried the good ol screwdriver trick, really sounds top end. When I listen from under my car/wheel well its not loud. Sounds like its just on top

 

Another mivec car with the same issue.

My motor is 100% stock with 50k. My noise came a week or two after doing a cam swap on my car.

I've also changed my lifters, and mivec filter.

I've driven the car (hard at times) for around 4000-5000 miles so the noise certainly isn't bearing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAsaw4pJLv4

 

The "screwdriver" trick is crap. Trying to pinpoint a specific issues using that method is going to lead you in circles, leave you assuming where the noise might be coming from, or what it is. Stethoscopes are cheap, $6-$12. It's a great tool to have!

If you do decide to buy this tool, make sure you are probing all around your engine. I would make sure to check all over your lower end anywhere you can to isolate this issue, as well the head. If you have an idea it might be the bottom end make sure to check for play in the bottom end by using 1-2 screw drivers or pry bar to look for "shifting". That's the easiest way I can explain that.

 

Dude unless the mic quality in your camera is bad. Your engine sounds bad. Just because you have a knock doesn't mean it's going to fail in a set given time.

 

Take note that, Ronnies tick also makes noise at idle and yours does not.

I would like to state that I am not Mitsubishi mechanic. I have 3 ASE's, I worked for a automotive shop with 3 names: Jaguar Shop, Made in Japan, and Moss Bay. We worked on everything, from Ferrari's to Volkswagen Bugs. I also worked at Lee Johnson Kia for a while and have 5 years autobody experience. I am no master tech but, I have a good amount of experience, more that most.

 

I've grown up around cars, restore cars, went to school for cars and autobody so id like to say I have some experience as well.

There's a few options I got, pull pan check rods which I already have a car on my lift right now so gotta wait, I'm gonna pull my vavlve cover again backoff a little and retorque cam caps, and then some say it could be timing belt tensioner (but doubt that since it doesn't sound like its coming from there).


Is there anyway to check see if a lifter is not getting enough oil, as in at higher rpms its not able to pump back up quick enough?

 

My mic quality is bad but so is the noise. Its also coming from the head not the block. I've done two oil changes and never flakes or anything sketchy.

 

this is a long shot, but for those with the noise, have u guys checked for any exhaust leaks? how are ur afr's at idle? are they leaner than usual? check for leaks around ex mani, o2 housing and hotside.