ogvw

iTrader: (4)

MT-90 is gear oil with the viscosity of motor oil.... doesnt get much thinner than that. I wouldnt recommend the MTL/MT90 mix.. I switched from MT-90 to straight 75w-90 and cold shifting improved. Im guessing the syncros like a thicker oil

evo_007

I'm with timzcat, GL5 is bad in the tranny. Most of the GL5 out there is corrosive to brass and copper synchros. Mobil 1 and Valvoline gearoil are such examples. However the are some GL5's that are safe to use in the tranny. If the mfg. states in their product documentation that their GL5 gearoil can *specifically* be used in a box requiring GL1 through GL4 it would be ok.

ogvw

iTrader: (4)

GL5 is not corrosive to syncros...... cmon

why would oil companies make tranny oil that wouldnt be safe in a tranny????

evo_007

MT90 and MTL are the same product. The difference is weight rating. Both are catagorized as GL4 manual transmission oil, which is seperate from their(Redline) GL5 gearoil offerings.

mojo

iTrader: (4)

This is what I'm using and I'm very pleased with the results. Also have SS clutch line and restrictor removed.

Suprisingly I just changed shift knob to a heavy 340g (Razo RA 96 short knob) and this has made shifting mutch better. Go figure? But it works great and fit is perfect. I don't really understand how that extra weight could help so much but it's much smoother.
http://www.extremeredline.com/razo/r...shift_knob.htm

berkel

iTrader: (5)

Hi,

I'm running Redline MT-90 (GL-4) in the transaxle, and NEO RHD (GL-5) in the transfer case and rear diff.

I really like this, not sure why people are reporting worse shifting with the Redline? However, I would say that with the colder weather it's a little rougher until it warms up. Can't compare to stock fluid since I changed it at 3500 miles back in the summer. I don't grind gears or have any problems downshifting (with revmatching most of the time or an occasional full double-clutch for the hell of it), unless I make a mistake .

I'm at almost 10K miles now with stock clutch and no slipping. Clutch restrictor and stock clutch line still in place. My clutch does chatter slightly when I first back out of my driveway, perhaps condensation on the plate, but it's fine when warmed up.

I'm going to do another fluid change at 12K or so and see how it works. I've had the decel noise since the car had about 200 miles on it, but it's gotten better. First improvement was after the switch to synthetic fluids, and it's gotten gradually better since then, so that I barely notice it. Before I would "drive around it" making sure I didn't downshift into that rpm range because it sounded so horrendous.

Take care,

FB

timzcat

iTrader: (10)

Oh sure copy my shift knob.
The weight on the end just makes you need to use less force to push it into a gear because there is naturally more weight behind it. Works great with a short shifter like the Perrin, you didn't mention whether you were running a SS or not.

mojo

iTrader: (4)

Hey Timcatz,
I did copy u. I just couldn't remember where I heard about it. I think you were talking to Silver Surfer in another thread. Great knob, really makes a big difference. I couldn't believe it. I didn't want to rave to much cause I thought people would think I was talking out my *** about the difference. Thanks for the info.

I don't have the short shifter, still big difference even without. Highly recommended! Perfect fit!

Thanks again.
Take care.

I can't believe people are complaining about the MT-90, great stuff imo.

iodine23

iTrader: (1)

Got this from Redline doing research on MTL vs. MT-90. My local dealer claims their rep said that MTL and MT-90 are about the same stuff and that they only need to carry one of them. This would suggest otherwise.

WhosEVO

iTrader: (10)

thanks for sharing the info

did they say anything about what to use in the transfer case and rear diff?

Do you think the BG I is good for transfer case?


Thanks

Ferb

GL5 may or may not be corrosive to yellow metals (which includes brass and bronze synchros). The higher levels of sulfur found in the anti-wear and extreme pressure additives of GL5 may cause a slight corrosion on the surface of yellow metals.

This event is not guaranteed, but CAN happen. Why take a chance when there are still GL4 rated manual transmission lubes available.

Also, in response to the MTL and MT-90 being 'the same'.. find a new dealer. MTL and MT-90 are based upon the same chemistry, with MTL being a little thinner at temperature. Definately not the same product, however.

ferb!

gizzmo

bump of the century


Shell helix that you use in your gearbox, isnt it a engine oil only?

If i look on my local shell site i see shell helix under engine oil, and

Shell spirax as the transmission oil.


have you missmatched the name of the oil?

CO_VR4

iTrader: (83)

"We strongly recommend using a GL-4 spec transmission oil in the Mitsubishi manual transmissions. This oil offers good protection for the gears and bearings against wear out. Do not use any oil that has a GL-5 rating in the transmission, for these oils will not give the best shift quality because the GL-5 rating is too slippery for the synchronizers to be effective for high rpm shifts." TRE Transmissions recommendations found here:

http://www.teamrip.com/manual_transm...tion_info.html

boostedwrx

iTrader: (27)

dang, thread from the dead!~!~!~!~

I should probably change my first post - I ran BGII on my old Evo but have been running the OEM fluid on my 6-speed MR without issue.

Erik@MIL.SPEC

iTrader: (94)

You should try the Castrol at some point


And bumping a 4 year old thread is teh lameness....