Breaking in a new built engine

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Oct 9, 2010, 11:02 PM

#16

SLO-EVO

Evolved Member

iTrader: (52)

Join Date: Mar 2007

Location: Ahead of YOU

Posts: 1,095

Likes: 0

Received 1 Like on 1 Post

as stated earlier, you will get 10000000 different break in opinions. I am a firm believer of getting it running properly and go! i have built plenty of engines and have never had one fail. everyone will have a recommendation, all will be no more right than the other.

Reply Like

Oct 10, 2010, 02:42 AM

#17

MR. EVO MR

Account Disabled

iTrader: (9)

Join Date: Jan 2005

Location: :noitacoL

Posts: 1,761

Likes: 1

Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts

Double post

Last edited by MR. EVO MR; Oct 10, 2010 at 03:20 PM. Reason: Double post

Reply Like

Oct 10, 2010, 07:08 AM

#18

cfdfireman1

Evolved Member

iTrader: (11)

Join Date: Oct 2005

Location: Chicago

Posts: 4,165

Likes: 0

Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

no no no!!!!!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by ecktt

ahhhhh. the conflicts!
I guess i will try the "safe" route.
30 min idle break in with RP break in oil.
1000km with RP break in oil.
Amsoil engine flush and then amsoil 10w40 high zinc.

Would have liked to know the proper/best results approach though.

break it in like you're going to drive it. If you want a princess treat her like one if you want a ***** go for it. Idling the thing like that is the worse possible thing you can do. I would go for something in between these two. Just make sure she's good and warmed up before you hammer her.

http://www.amsperformance.com/instru...structions.pdf
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Last edited by cfdfireman1; Oct 10, 2010 at 07:11 AM.

Reply Like

Oct 10, 2010, 11:00 AM

#19

ecktt

Evolving Member

Thread Starter

Join Date: Mar 2009

Location: Trinidad

Posts: 256

Likes: 12

Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

So, based on AMS and mototuneusa:
1st 20 miles. - Driver her like i stole her and then change oil. :'(
2nd 500 miles - Mixed driving (aka how i normally drive) and then change oil.
3rd 1500 miles - Mixed driving (aka how i normally drive) and then change oil.
Home free!?

Reply Like

Oct 10, 2010, 12:44 PM

#20

javicracer

Evolving Member

iTrader: (82)

Join Date: Sep 2006

Location: southcal

Posts: 457

Likes: 0

Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsrboi80

I think it's more of a why waste the money on synthetic when your gonna dump so frequently at the early break in stages. Can't see any other reason really

This is what I meant by my first post soooooo much conflicting/I heard from XXX info. That what really the end all be all is to consult your builder and follow their recommendations

the use of non synthetic is because all the parts need to seat in place and parts will wear out a lil before everything is ready. Try to find a non synthetic oil high on zinc and phosphorus levels.

Reply Like

Oct 10, 2010, 02:34 PM

#21

GR8WHITE RS

Evolving Member

iTrader: (25)

Join Date: Sep 2009

Location: BIG APPLE

Posts: 138

Likes: 0

Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

1040 conventional oil do the first change at 20 miles second at 500 miles and third one at 1500 then you can use synthetic oil still the same weight. and check it after it fill up of gas to make sure your oil level is fine. after the 1500 you change to synthetic and do every 3000 miles.

Reply Like

Oct 10, 2010, 03:21 PM

#22

MR. EVO MR

Account Disabled

iTrader: (9)

Join Date: Jan 2005

Location: :noitacoL

Posts: 1,761

Likes: 1

Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts

So the idea is to beat her like you stole her first with regular oil.

Doesn't regular oil harm the TURBO???

Reply Like

Oct 10, 2010, 03:28 PM

#23

Teal2nnr

Evolved Member

iTrader: (7)

Join Date: Apr 2009

Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada

Posts: 1,491

Likes: 6

Received 41 Likes on 37 Posts

Quote:

Originally Posted by MR. EVO MR

So the idea is to beat her like you stole her first with regular oil.

Doesn't regular oil harm the TURBO???

No??? you're thinking of that Mobile 1 thread......which is a synthetic....which you shouldn't be running it anyway. You shouldn't be hitting boost for the first bit anyway. No constant RPM highway driving for the first while....etc. The AMS break in guide is a good one. Follow that / thread

Reply Like

Oct 11, 2010, 12:09 AM

#24

javicracer

Evolving Member

iTrader: (82)

Join Date: Sep 2006

Location: southcal

Posts: 457

Likes: 0

Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Quote:

Originally Posted by Teal2nnr

+1, but i will hit no more than 5 psi during a break in period.

Reply Like

Oct 11, 2010, 12:21 AM

#25

RSMike

EvoM Guru

iTrader: (1)

Join Date: Jul 2009

Location: New Zealand

Posts: 2,249

Likes: 124

Received 332 Likes on 132 Posts

why do people answer questions that they dont know the answers to...

Reply Like

Oct 11, 2010, 07:35 AM

#26

gsrboi80

Evolved Member

iTrader: (38)

Join Date: Aug 2005

Location: On a cliff

Posts: 7,909

Likes: 58

Received 47 Likes on 43 Posts

Quote:

Originally Posted by RSMike

why do people answer questions that they dont know the answers to...

My guess

1. It's a automotive forum people post what they have been told or read somewhere

2. Thing with this topic is there is not a "RIGHT" answer

Reply Like

Oct 11, 2010, 07:38 AM

#27

gsrboi80

Evolved Member

iTrader: (38)

Join Date: Aug 2005

Location: On a cliff

Posts: 7,909

Likes: 58

Received 47 Likes on 43 Posts

Quote:

Originally Posted by javicracer

the use of non synthetic is because all the parts need to seat in place and parts will wear out a lil before everything is ready. Try to find a non synthetic oil high on zinc and phosphorus levels.

HUH

. Sorry but this makes absolutely no sense

Reply Like

Oct 14, 2010, 03:25 AM

#28

MR. EVO MR

Account Disabled

iTrader: (9)

Join Date: Jan 2005

Location: :noitacoL

Posts: 1,761

Likes: 1

Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsrboi80

HUH

. Sorry but this makes absolutely no sense

lol

Reply Like

Oct 14, 2010, 03:55 AM

#29

CBRE

Evolved Member

iTrader: (77)

Join Date: Apr 2004

Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Posts: 618

Likes: 1

Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Breaking in my new motor right now, 10w30 Havoline regular oil w/4 oz Redline break in additive for 20 miles, 510 miles of RP 10w30 break in oil, now im on 10w30 Rotella with 4oz Redline break in additive for another 500 miles. All miles so far have been back roads with alot of hills and short burst at 27psi. After 1000 I will be using Amsoil 10w30 Dominator in the cold months.

Reply Like

Oct 14, 2010, 04:01 AM

#30

1NastyMR

Account Disabled

iTrader: (102)

Join Date: Jul 2007

Location: Chicago, IL

Posts: 1,086

Likes: 0

Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Everyone Does it their own way, Some even put oil in and dyno it right away. You wanna use non synthetic oil for the first 1000 miles to seal the rings and also drive with some boost not full throttle aswell after the first 500 for the other 500 miles then it should be ready for oil change and Full Boost/WOT. I did that and still had no issues and still running strong