DKC6691

iTrader: (10)

To start I just want to say that I am really pleased with the quality of the products in this thread and that this is just an informative honest review of the parts install and what to do and what not to do depending on if you want a race car or a street/track car.

I had driven my evo 9 for close to a year and a half when one day on the dyno going from maf to map on my AEM my clutch started slipping. At the time my evo had exhaust and a tune and was making 350 HP/Tq and had a rear mustache bar delete which with the stock clutch was drivable on the street.

So instead of just replacing my clutch I decided to do this:


Built motor w. AMS balance shaft delete, big turbo, Quartermaster twin disk clutch, and I decided to add a lightweight front cross-member with a solid front engine mount (more on that later)

My first thoughts of the car was that the clutch is allot better than I expected,
its actually possible to leave a stop light smoothly and you can still start from a stop on an incline. The clutch was a rather easy to install and the pedal travel is not to short and you can really feel the clutch starting to engage. Not to mention wholy BATMAN can this thing rev and allow you to shift fast.
Now for the horrendous problems I am having and why I am writing this review. If you do decide to go to a twin disk clutch for the love of god please have some kind of rubber bushings on your engine and differential mounts or you will want to hit yourself in the head with a hammer. (now let me explain)

With the combination of a solid front engine mount and solid rear diff mount + the quartermaster twin this clutch starting from a stop and low speed driving creates a terrible lurching in the car witch is inevitable unless you do a complete launch or a super slow take off. The second symptom of this combination is on deceleration/engine breaking you HEAR THE DRIVETRAIN FRONT AND REAR HOWLING, and its freaking loud.

Now to fix this problem I have since gone to a 70 durometer front engine bushing using the stock engine mount and I have gone to an upgraded bushing on the rear diff and reinstalled the stock mustache bar and finally I have peace. I still have some decel noise but at the moment its livable.

So please if you go to a Twin disk clutch you want to still drive your car on the street not just the track and want to retain some sort of drive-ability don't go to full stiff engine or diff mounts or you will regret it.

BenJ

iTrader: (21)

good info, thanks.

binh

iTrader: (40)

Did you have to do any kind of measurements to install this clutch? How about setting the engagement point so you don't overstroke the hydraulic bearing. Was that all easy to do?

DKC6691

iTrader: (10)

I had the same worry when installing the clutch as you have just mentioned, honestly its easy and it will explain as best as possible.

1. Order AMS throttle stop, I tried going to the local bolt store but they to not have a long enough fitting to go on the threads on your clutch stop.

2. Install the throttle stop and feel the clutch with your hand and you will feel it engages the clutch all the way about an inch sooner than the stock setup.

3. Take the cover of the transmission and with a flashlight watch to see how far the clutch engages.

4. Last step turn the engine by hand and have someone or something push the clutch pedal down to were the stop is set at and make sure the clutch is not making bad noises.

This clutch is really easy to disengage and you can really tell if you install it.
Its really not that bad and I find that not having to deal with a pull style clutch is really the way to go.

binh

iTrader: (40)

Thanks for your input.

I have this clutch right now on my garage floor but im so up in the air with whether I should keep it or get a exedy twin or triple because some of the stuff I'm reading.

This will be a street car. My friend who has this clutch says his hydraulic throwout bearing has had the seal go bad like 5 times in less than a year (wrong fluid/installation error/older version??), that its too harsh for the street and others says it doesn't last long at all.

I think I'm gonna bite the bullet and put it in. Worst case I drop the tranny and take it out.

binh

iTrader: (40)

BTW, I think you mean clutch stop not "throttle stop".

DKC6691

iTrader: (10)

They only sell a "throttle stop" for their larger throttle bodies but its the same thing and works as a clutch or throttle stop.

Side note, I also installed the Upper Braided Clutch line AND OMFG did that hurt,
there is no room to insert the banjo fitting. You just need to man up and endure the pain.

Because the QM throwout bearing comes with a pretty long braided line I only needed the AMS upper line and ended up returning the lower FYI.