bpclements

iTrader: (41)

Well to start off I just got my RnR Racing o2 elim dp. I decided to remove the turbo to make it easier to get to the o2 housing and remove it. Everything came out really easy. This is like my 5th plus time removing a turbo (much experience with DSM's). Anyways, like a few people on here, the holes didn't line up on the dp and it looked like it wouldn't seal on the bottom where it is marked. So, I decided to pull the far stud out to make sure that it would seal before I drilled the holes out. I guess I am like super strong or something because I broke the stud in half where the threads stop. Half of the stud is still sticking out, so I thought I could get it off with some good vice grips. I soaked it with WD40 for like a day and tried the next day and it would not budge.
I am going to just bring it to Napa's machine shop and see if they can pull it out. If they can't then I'll have them cut it down, retap it and put in the new one.

SILVER SURFER

There is a stud extraction tool you can get from most auto part stores, I have had good luck with it in similiar situations. You can also use an easy out, but you will have to drill the stud first, that is your best option if the stud breaks in the hole. Since you have a good amount of the stud sticking out the first extration tool I mentioned will be easier to use and should work fine. If it is real stuborn some heat with a butane torch can help also.
Another really good product you might want to get at the auto part store is Anti seize Lubricant, it really helps to prevent situations like this. I always use this product on my wheel studs and spark plug threads also .

Good luck,

Eric

SILVER SURFER

Guess why I have these items

Guru

iTrader: (6)

THat stud puller is VERY handy. I use mine all the time. Got mine at Sears.

tom@kartboy

iTrader: (21)

soak that sucker in LOTS of "knockerloose" "liquid wrench" whatever

then the stud puller should get it out.

how far off is the flange?

Tom

bpclements

iTrader: (41)

Thanks for all of the info everyone. I will try some "knockerloose" "liquid wrench" and that extractor tool.

The flange just looks a little off from what I could see. I couldn't really tell how much since I couldn't get it on, but it looked ever so slightly off. I think once the holes are drilled out a little it will fit similar to the stock o2 housing.

Ryan has really been helping me out. He has offered to fix the downpipe for me. Not really his fault since he has another company water cut the flanges for him. Would have been nice for them to be test fit first.

I am really anxious to see the power gains that i get from this downpipe. Really free flowing since it is 3" right off of the turbine.

bpclements

iTrader: (41)

I take it you have been through a couple of broken studs in your day, LOL!!!

mitsuorder

iTrader: (106)

what's the purpose of that second piece shown next to the dp, is it an extension of some sort? If why is it just not incorportated into the design of the dp? Just asking because I will be in the market for a dp shortly and am debating the whole deal about flex section/no flex section and incorporated 02 eliminator/ separate 02 eliminator or to even bother with the eliminator at all. Good luck man.

bpclements

iTrader: (41)

It's my cat delete pipe. It is designed with a slip fitting for an easier install.

bpclements

iTrader: (41)

Ok, I tried some Liquid Wrench and a stud remover tool. I was able to break the stud loose by screwing it in, then out. On about my third time working it out the stud snaps in half again!!!!!! That's not the only thing that goes wrong either. When the stud snapped the stud remover tool smashes me in the face and leaves a small chip in my tooth. I am irate. I am through with this damn thing. I was ready to toss the turbo in the dumpster.

Anyone want to buy a stock turbo??? Just have to remove a damn Stubborn stud in the turbine housing.

RnR Racing

iTrader: (23)

Barry, I am sorry to hear about your troubles with the stud. Actually it would ahve been easier to install the donwpipe if you would have just loosened the bolts on the top of the manifold. By doing this it gives you lots of free room.

You might to try and heat up it. That always help to remove the a bad stud.


Let me know if you have any other questions as I am more than happy to give you some more pointers.



I can't wait until you get it in there. I want to see a review since I know you will be surprise by the results, Ryan

bpclements

iTrader: (41)

Yeah, I am just going to bring it to Napa tomorrow to get it retapped and have them put another one in like I had originally planned. Just thought that I could try and get it out myself. Damn my luck.

Thanks for all of the help Ryan. I will send the dp out tomorrow if I get a chance. Thanks.

bpclements

iTrader: (41)

I am also very tempted to just get a turbo upgrade since everything is already out of the car, LOL .

superz

iTrader: (7)

wow, I wish I were you! "broke stud, let me fix it with a turbo kit"

SILVER SURFER

Sorry to hear about your experience, I have certainly had a few days like this. As has been mentioned a torch can do wonders for freeing up a stuborn bolt, but at this point I understand taking it to a shop. We certainly don't want to see the post where you tell us that in a fit of rage you threw the turbo through your windshield Sorry if your still not in a laughing mood about this, I just couldn't resist, only because we have all been there.

Do yourself a favor though and use some anti-sieze lubricant when you go to put it all back together.

If it's not to much trouble, I would love to see some pictures showing the stock O2 housing. In particular the internal passages, just wondering how restrictive it is and if there is much room to port the stock piece?

Thanks and good luck,

Eric