Ams balance shaft kit
#1
Ams balance shaft kit
Ok hope i explain this rite
i recently blew my motor so i did what everyone else does rebuild i did a full block rebuild the works new pistons rods .20 over polished crank new race bearing new oil pump and every gasket in between also i removed the balance shaft with an oem stubby shaft i just spun the stock bearings 180 degrees
Now for the problem i broke in the motor for about 600 miles with 20 50 valvoline racing oil and changed it about 3 times within those 600 miles no metal very clean oil on every change. To make a long story short i wnr to the dyno and my tuner was doing a full tune a partial throttle and full throttle on about the 10th pull the car made about 500 hp to the wheels but i noticed only on that pull after he was done the oil pressure fell to 0 psi and when we reved it a little it went to about 30 to 35 psi this car at idle always made about 40 psi and about 110 and full thottle.
So we think its the oil pump failed so im gonna get the ams race shaft kit and new oil pump and see what happens. my question is when i did the shaft removal i dont remember if the i spun the bearing that that ams shaft would go into or just remove it all together. also if i can do this job with the motor in the car.
Any advise would be great
i recently blew my motor so i did what everyone else does rebuild i did a full block rebuild the works new pistons rods .20 over polished crank new race bearing new oil pump and every gasket in between also i removed the balance shaft with an oem stubby shaft i just spun the stock bearings 180 degrees
Now for the problem i broke in the motor for about 600 miles with 20 50 valvoline racing oil and changed it about 3 times within those 600 miles no metal very clean oil on every change. To make a long story short i wnr to the dyno and my tuner was doing a full tune a partial throttle and full throttle on about the 10th pull the car made about 500 hp to the wheels but i noticed only on that pull after he was done the oil pressure fell to 0 psi and when we reved it a little it went to about 30 to 35 psi this car at idle always made about 40 psi and about 110 and full thottle.
So we think its the oil pump failed so im gonna get the ams race shaft kit and new oil pump and see what happens. my question is when i did the shaft removal i dont remember if the i spun the bearing that that ams shaft would go into or just remove it all together. also if i can do this job with the motor in the car.
Any advise would be great
#2
if it's gone to zero psi oil pressure (and the gauge isn't faulty) then there is a good chance you have damaged bearings also.
the stubby shaft shouldn't have caused your problem, they are used in stock mitsi motors.
i would say take off the oil pump, check that.
if it's ok, take off the sump and check the bearings. (and oil filter! cut it open).
does your tuner have any recommendations?
the stubby shaft shouldn't have caused your problem, they are used in stock mitsi motors.
i would say take off the oil pump, check that.
if it's ok, take off the sump and check the bearings. (and oil filter! cut it open).
does your tuner have any recommendations?
#3
You do not want to rotate the bearing for the AMS stub shaft. You still want oil flow going to that bearing or you will burn up that shaft. The bearing for the shaft that gets removed altogether gets rotated 180 deg. You will see increaded oil pressure with this modification.
#4
if it's gone to zero psi oil pressure (and the gauge isn't faulty) then there is a good chance you have damaged bearings also.
the stubby shaft shouldn't have caused your problem, they are used in stock mitsi motors.
i would say take off the oil pump, check that.
if it's ok, take off the sump and check the bearings. (and oil filter! cut it open).
does your tuner have any recommendations?
the stubby shaft shouldn't have caused your problem, they are used in stock mitsi motors.
i would say take off the oil pump, check that.
if it's ok, take off the sump and check the bearings. (and oil filter! cut it open).
does your tuner have any recommendations?
The balance shaft problems that I am aware of relate to the removal of the balance shafts in a built motor. One balance shaft is driven by a dedicated belt and can easily be removed by sealing off the oil passage with a rotated bushing. The other balance shaft is the idler gear of the oil pump driven by the timing. A method to remove that shaft that was tried in the past was to cut the shaft at the exit of the pump housing. This causes a problem because that left only one bearing on the shaft which will wobble of destroy itself. The proper way to remove the balance shaft is to turn the counter weights down on a lathe until the shaft is round or purchase a machined balance shaft from AMS or similar. I am not aware of significant issues relating to stock or properly built balance shafts, but I could be wrong and there are many more experienced people here.
#5
the problems with the stubby shafts was when they weren't using correct mitsi parts, they were using shafts that didn't have an oil groove in it.
Overtightened cambelts will also cause an oil pump failure because of the side loading on the gear.
You do not want to rotate the bearing for the AMS stub shaft. You still want oil flow going to that bearing or you will burn up that shaft. The bearing for the shaft that gets removed altogether gets rotated 180 deg. You will see increaded oil pressure with this modification.
That bearing has no holes in it for oil feed, the oil feed travels down the shaft, from the oil pump end.
but yes, the other balance shaft (back of engine, intake side) bearing needs to be rotated to block the oil flow.
#6
I have an AMS race shaft unused if you need one send me a pm. I believe the race shaft/front balance shaft does NOT have an oiling hole in it as the oil comes from within the shaft itself as it flows from the oil pump and through the hollow shaft and out the shafts oiling hole.
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