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Old Oct 30, 2010, 06:23 PM
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thanks for the good info guys!

also is it imported to have oil squirters put in??
Old Oct 30, 2010, 06:28 PM
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check out post#2 of that link, it has few opinions on the squirters.
Old Oct 30, 2010, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by detroit pistins
check out post#2 of that link, it has few opinions on the squirters.
yes i seen that!

you guys think these blocks ok with high HP/TQ for over a period of time?
Old Oct 30, 2010, 07:32 PM
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I just hit 15k on my 4g64
daily driven on e85 @ 624awhp

Things I would do different
  1. JE pistons make a lot of noise when cold, you must let it warm up before driving. I would tighten up the piston 2 wall to .0045 or .0050 (mine was set at .0055)
  2. Go with a higher compression piston. (mine are off the shelf JEs @ 8.5:1)

For a daily driver the extra low end torque is definately a good thing!

John-
Old Oct 31, 2010, 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by bbyevo8u
yes i seen that!

you guys think these blocks ok with high HP/TQ for over a period of time?
dont need oil squirters boss not needed. just extra insurance really. IM positive these blocks hold up just fine just most of us are new to the game with them but soon it will be the new standard more blocks cheaper to build then a 4g63 block for sure. Also what does it matter LR2.4 to std2.4 they will make the same power just the LR can rev higher not worth it in my book unless you have all the funds and done mind laying down that 5500+ for the shorty
Old Oct 31, 2010, 08:51 AM
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LR2.4 is the way to go. I have 6k on my motor and I run the living **** out of my car and have no problems yet and doubt I will. I would go 10:1, there is no reason to go less. MAP does a std 10.5:1 which would be fine with 93 or E85 but since I only have 92 here I did 10:1.

DON'T get JE piston. Get you a nice set of HD Wiseco pistons and don't worry about your pistons failing.

Also I would run Power Enterprise HG due to the cylinder wall thickness being less than the 63. It will help out tremendously and no need to o-ring your block.

I'm also running stock crank with an AMS pan and oil pressure gauge. I have not had any problems with the stock crank. I have launched my car many times at 7k, revved to 8800 through the traps and have not had a problem yet. If It is going to break it will break in my car! lmao I DON'T baby my car!!!

The last thing which I think is a must is the Kiggly HLA. It will help keep more of the oil in the pan/block were it is needed and only 15psi of oil into the head.

Good luck and if you have any questions let me know. Aaron at ER is a great guy and will lead you in the right direction. However, lmk if you need anything.

Mikey
Old Oct 31, 2010, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Svendiesel
There is a lot less space on the 64 vs the 63 between the cylinder walls for head gasket sealing, L19's and o-ring'ing are definitely musts.

Rogue what billet crank is in your motor? You did a long rod block right, not a standard?
I believe I still have the only full billet Manley setup from BR. 5.9"(i think) rod. Dont know if its LR or not.

Originally Posted by bbyevo8u
thanks for the good info guys!

also is it imported to have oil squirters put in??

Mine does not have them.

Last edited by xRoguex; Oct 31, 2010 at 05:00 PM.
Old Nov 1, 2010, 05:01 AM
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5.905" rod is 150mm, so that would be the standard rod
Old Nov 1, 2010, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by xRoguex
I believe I still have the only full billet Manley setup from BR. 5.9"(i think) rod. Dont know if its LR or not.




Mine does not have them.

Hmmmm, so you need my rods and I need your crank...Ill reauchambeau you for it. I go first

My motor is back at Buschur now and I was going to go with a Manley crank to take full advantage of my long roddedness, but decided against it because apparently the cranks do not have an undercutting feature necessary for proper oiling at high RPM and the only company making an undercut crank is Cosworth, which is like a $3500 crank
Old Nov 1, 2010, 01:00 PM
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If Im not mistaken I think the Magnus crank is. But they are about the same price!

Mikey
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