Best Coolant Brand?
Feb 18, 2013, 06:16 PM
#47
maybe not the same old conventional stuff but given what coolant does there has to be some coolants that have better chemical properties than others to dissipate the heat? If there wasn't better stuff we wouldn't have stuff like water wetter etc.
Isn't this more of an additive? i.e., get that Amsoil jug, mix in tap water to 50:50, then add this guy?
Isn't this more of an additive? i.e., get that Amsoil jug, mix in tap water to 50:50, then add this guy?
Some good data we put together for the sales team. Notice that we did a tad better than red line water wetter during a test on a small block 350.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...coolant-boost/
Last edited by apagan01; Feb 18, 2013 at 06:25 PM.
Feb 18, 2013, 06:22 PM
#48
If you dont live in freezing temperatures, water and Redline water wetter are definitely way to go. Just as Golgo13 stated, its been tried and proven..
Heres a good read. Shows how Redline water wetter cools cylinder head temps and more..
Redline Water Wetter Review
Maybe Apagan01 can show us how good that "coolant booster" works ??
I havent seen any reviews on it yet.
Heres a good read. Shows how Redline water wetter cools cylinder head temps and more..
Redline Water Wetter Review
Maybe Apagan01 can show us how good that "coolant booster" works ??
I havent seen any reviews on it yet.http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...coolant-boost/
Pretty soon you will see a GTR pushing over 1100 AWHP using it down at Texas TX2
I also had some data somewhere here on Evom on some evo's using it.
Feb 18, 2013, 07:09 PM
#50
Wow never herd the dawn theory either, interesting.
Its been said a few times in here but the coolant manufacturer dont matter, its all hype. All anti freeze comes form 2 different factories in the world and is chemically the same and the individual company buy it and mix it and sell it to you. really just buy what is the cheapest 50/50.
Here is where most people go wrong, sure you can buy the additives but really they are not needed, they dont hurt but really they are overkill in the sense your spending money to "improve your coolant". Really the additive that you should do is more distilled water, it helps and its damn near free! Hear me out. We all hear 50/50 and buy 50/50 but really the best mix is roughly 35/65. (65% water) This research was done decades ago but still no on calls it out. The only time i hear it called out by any company that makes engines is it by the MTU diesel motor company (Germany) and i can see why since most of the engines i work on with them are $1,000,000+ engines, they want their **** to run optimally. Water does a better job with heat transfer then the antifreeze does. The research has found that 35% (really i think it was 34.27 or something like that but 35 is easier to calculate when mixing, i personally just go 33/67, even easier) antifreeze is still plenty to keep the water from freezing even at pretty damn low temps. So the lowest amount of antifreeze you can run the better, but obviously you still want it to do its job.
But also as some one pointed out running 100% water is the best if your in a place its not in danger of ever freezing. I stick to my 33/67, just in case.
Its been said a few times in here but the coolant manufacturer dont matter, its all hype. All anti freeze comes form 2 different factories in the world and is chemically the same and the individual company buy it and mix it and sell it to you. really just buy what is the cheapest 50/50.
Here is where most people go wrong, sure you can buy the additives but really they are not needed, they dont hurt but really they are overkill in the sense your spending money to "improve your coolant". Really the additive that you should do is more distilled water, it helps and its damn near free! Hear me out. We all hear 50/50 and buy 50/50 but really the best mix is roughly 35/65. (65% water) This research was done decades ago but still no on calls it out. The only time i hear it called out by any company that makes engines is it by the MTU diesel motor company (Germany) and i can see why since most of the engines i work on with them are $1,000,000+ engines, they want their **** to run optimally. Water does a better job with heat transfer then the antifreeze does. The research has found that 35% (really i think it was 34.27 or something like that but 35 is easier to calculate when mixing, i personally just go 33/67, even easier) antifreeze is still plenty to keep the water from freezing even at pretty damn low temps. So the lowest amount of antifreeze you can run the better, but obviously you still want it to do its job.
But also as some one pointed out running 100% water is the best if your in a place its not in danger of ever freezing. I stick to my 33/67, just in case.
Feb 18, 2013, 07:10 PM
#51
Yes it is an additive to water. We had a few teams that were running road racing using it with good success.
Some good data we put together for the sales team. Notice that we did a tad better than red line water wetter during a test on a small block 350.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...coolant-boost/
Some good data we put together for the sales team. Notice that we did a tad better than red line water wetter during a test on a small block 350.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...coolant-boost/
Feb 18, 2013, 08:00 PM
#52
good point about the low coolant temps, but i'm also thinking more about the properties of the coolant when things start to heat up, but i guess at that point people will just go with water + wetter or whatever else.
i was just kind of thinking along the lines of how, for example, with synthetic oil, we kind of really start to see the benefits when the oil gets older, run through higher rpms, etc. etc. (i know its a totally different game, shear strength, film strength etc) but maybe some brand of coolant or whatever that has better properties for dispensing heat when the motor starts getting really hot
i was just kind of thinking along the lines of how, for example, with synthetic oil, we kind of really start to see the benefits when the oil gets older, run through higher rpms, etc. etc. (i know its a totally different game, shear strength, film strength etc) but maybe some brand of coolant or whatever that has better properties for dispensing heat when the motor starts getting really hot
Well, what exactly are you wondering/concerned about as far as properties of coolant when it "heats up"? As far as the chemicals in it that lubricate and clean your system, I don't know how their efficiency changes at higher coolant system temps. Im sure more of a concern would be the boiling point or why in the first place your system is running excessively hot.
As far as the water wetter, or amsoils version, those are great when you go race at the track. Some tracks/events wont let you run regular antifreeze because if you spill it makes it really slippery and a pain to clean up. These additives aid in cooling but from my understanding also help in lubricating the system since water alone doesn't do that. That's where these products are meant to be used, for a dd I think its a bit overkill. But then some folks like to put moton coilovers on their dd, go figure.
Really if you are concerned about keeping your coolant system in good shape, flush your coolant system regularly. You can raise the boiling point of your system to improve upon it but now you just have to consider that the rest of the system has to handle the increase pressure. Back in the days I was involved with some circle track cars and these guys were running pure water and around 40psi in the system to raise the boiling point. These were race cars though. No concerns about long term effects of pure water through the system as these engines were being torn down regularly. I have the info somewhere but I believe coolant temps in the track for these guys was above 225 F.
Its just like oil, folks are gonna use what is most available to them. I been using oem mitsu, and I love it. 64k on my radiator and the fins inside are clean, looks just like new. but I get oem Benz stuff much cheaper (free) so I am gonna give that a shot.
Feb 18, 2013, 08:15 PM
#53
Well, what exactly are you wondering/concerned about as far as properties of coolant when it "heats up"? As far as the chemicals in it that lubricate and clean your system, I don't know how their efficiency changes at higher coolant system temps. Im sure more of a concern would be the boiling point or why in the first place your system is running excessively hot.
As far as the water wetter, or amsoils version, those are great when you go race at the track. Some tracks/events wont let you run regular antifreeze because if you spill it makes it really slippery and a pain to clean up. These additives aid in cooling but from my understanding also help in lubricating the system since water alone doesn't do that. That's where these products are meant to be used, for a dd I think its a bit overkill. But then some folks like to put moton coilovers on their dd, go figure.
Really if you are concerned about keeping your coolant system in good shape, flush your coolant system regularly. You can raise the boiling point of your system to improve upon it but now you just have to consider that the rest of the system has to handle the increase pressure. Back in the days I was involved with some circle track cars and these guys were running pure water and around 40psi in the system to raise the boiling point. These were race cars though. No concerns about long term effects of pure water through the system as these engines were being torn down regularly. I have the info somewhere but I believe coolant temps in the track for these guys was above 225 F.
Its just like oil, folks are gonna use what is most available to them. I been using oem mitsu, and I love it. 64k on my radiator and the fins inside are clean, looks just like new. but I get oem Benz stuff much cheaper (free) so I am gonna give that a shot.
As far as the water wetter, or amsoils version, those are great when you go race at the track. Some tracks/events wont let you run regular antifreeze because if you spill it makes it really slippery and a pain to clean up. These additives aid in cooling but from my understanding also help in lubricating the system since water alone doesn't do that. That's where these products are meant to be used, for a dd I think its a bit overkill. But then some folks like to put moton coilovers on their dd, go figure.
Really if you are concerned about keeping your coolant system in good shape, flush your coolant system regularly. You can raise the boiling point of your system to improve upon it but now you just have to consider that the rest of the system has to handle the increase pressure. Back in the days I was involved with some circle track cars and these guys were running pure water and around 40psi in the system to raise the boiling point. These were race cars though. No concerns about long term effects of pure water through the system as these engines were being torn down regularly. I have the info somewhere but I believe coolant temps in the track for these guys was above 225 F.
Its just like oil, folks are gonna use what is most available to them. I been using oem mitsu, and I love it. 64k on my radiator and the fins inside are clean, looks just like new. but I get oem Benz stuff much cheaper (free) so I am gonna give that a shot.
Feb 18, 2013, 08:40 PM
#55
Want a coolant that delivers better physical properties than water, virtually lasts the lifetime of the vehicle without needed to be replaced, and will not permit electrolysis (corrosion) under any circumstances?
Evans Waterless Coolant
It isn't cheap, and it isn't the easiest thing to convert unless one uses it from the get-go, but there isn't a single product mentioned in this thread that can do what this coolant does, simply because it eliminates the worst thing about coolant - water.
Evans Waterless Coolant
It isn't cheap, and it isn't the easiest thing to convert unless one uses it from the get-go, but there isn't a single product mentioned in this thread that can do what this coolant does, simply because it eliminates the worst thing about coolant - water.
Feb 18, 2013, 09:07 PM
#56
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Really?
Want a coolant that delivers better physical properties than water, virtually lasts the lifetime of the vehicle without needed to be replaced, and will not permit electrolysis (corrosion) under any circumstances?
Evans Waterless Coolant
It isn't cheap, and it isn't the easiest thing to convert unless one uses it from the get-go, but there isn't a single product mentioned in this thread that can do what this coolant does, simply because it eliminates the worst thing about coolant - water.
Evans Waterless Coolant
It isn't cheap, and it isn't the easiest thing to convert unless one uses it from the get-go, but there isn't a single product mentioned in this thread that can do what this coolant does, simply because it eliminates the worst thing about coolant - water.
But "BEKevo" says it a gimmick.
Feb 18, 2013, 09:24 PM
#57
Want a coolant that delivers better physical properties than water, virtually lasts the lifetime of the vehicle without needed to be replaced, and will not permit electrolysis (corrosion) under any circumstances?
Evans Waterless Coolant
It isn't cheap, and it isn't the easiest thing to convert unless one uses it from the get-go, but there isn't a single product mentioned in this thread that can do what this coolant does, simply because it eliminates the worst thing about coolant - water.
Evans Waterless Coolant
It isn't cheap, and it isn't the easiest thing to convert unless one uses it from the get-go, but there isn't a single product mentioned in this thread that can do what this coolant does, simply because it eliminates the worst thing about coolant - water.
Are you currently using this coolant? I would guess the only way to convert is to go through one of their dealers?
Feb 18, 2013, 09:38 PM
#58
I'm interested anyway.. I wonder how safe it is, seems any of the coolants will operate in temperatures well within anything any motor would/should ever see.
Maybe the automotive version? Is anyone running this? Seems the "conversion" is a bit of a hassle, getting out every drop of old coolant
Maybe the automotive version? Is anyone running this? Seems the "conversion" is a bit of a hassle, getting out every drop of old coolant
Last edited by kyoo; Feb 18, 2013 at 09:41 PM.
Feb 19, 2013, 05:25 AM
#59
Its safe Im sure. I say try it out and see what you think. I just don't know what would be a good way to test this vs standard coolant. I mean either you will run with coolant temps slightly higher or slightly lower. If because of this your able to advance timing for example, then it might be a test where you can see some real world results. If no power is made or lost I just don't see what the dfference is between running a few degrees up or down. Im in a good situation to try it as Im putting in a new head and block, but if I test it out what would we gain out of it just to see different coolant temps?
Feb 19, 2013, 06:03 AM
#60
Its safe Im sure. I say try it out and see what you think. I just don't know what would be a good way to test this vs standard coolant. I mean either you will run with coolant temps slightly higher or slightly lower. If because of this your able to advance timing for example, then it might be a test where you can see some real world results. If no power is made or lost I just don't see what the dfference is between running a few degrees up or down. Im in a good situation to try it as Im putting in a new head and block, but if I test it out what would we gain out of it just to see different coolant temps?
Which person said it was a gimmick, and why?