I did, and I saw it wasn't given a deserved response.

I'll be using it in my BMW. I haven't switched my EVO as of the present, but every possible remnant of the old coolant needs to be blown out. About the dealers, probably so.

Obviously, a newly installed engine and dry coolant system is the easiest way, but the ultimate verification is when the day comes that the engine and coolant system are disassembled, and all coolant passages, including those in the head, radiator, heater core, etc., look like new, with the original coolant having been used the entire time.

 

The more I look into this, the more interested I get. Even if there are no other benefits other than that you don't need water, I'm willing to try it

I'm wondering though, if it will take longer to heat up? But I guess if the engine's getting hot and this stuff is running through it, it will

 

The coolant can be mixed half and half or 70/30. You would want to mix dependant on the enviro temps you expirience.
Here is some info on the coolant :
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...ngine-coolant/

The reason you dont want to use destilled water is because of posible high levels above 25 ppm of chloride ions, even thoug the concerns with ions is mostlly with alum radiators.

So the best water to use is bottled water becuase of its high quality RO water.
I normally get the dollat gallon jugs.

 

I talked to my teacher about this waterless engine coolant to see what he thought of it and his main points against it were that it was expensive and that because you can't mix water with it then you're gonna have to carry a jug around with you if you need to top it off. If you start overheating and add water it ruins it, or if you get your car serviced and they top it off then it ruins it.

I'm interested to see how well it does work since i don't know anyone that has used it.

 

Boiling point is 375 °F how are you going to overheat it?

 

very good points in terms of practicality. i wonder why so strict about a total flush and only using that coolant

just bc the boiling point is high doesnt mean it won't overheat the engine? I think he was referring to if the engine is low on coolant or something, unless you're talking about the coolant itself, yeah. regardless of what's in there, the thermostat will start working at the designed temperature anyway right? If it stays at the temperature the thermostat is set to, won't freeze, won't boil, won't run hot, and doesn't use water I fail to see downsides other than the practicality ones listed above. i'm more looking at this as a solution for corrosion down the line. idk how long you guys are planning to keep your cars, but it might not be a bad idea to explore if you've got the car another 10, 20, 30 years

 

dont forget you need to find a radiator cap that wont pressurize the system. Anybody know where to source those out?

 

stocker won't do? i didn't look too carefully yet at this stuff

 

I guess you can run a low pressure cap, but I think the oem may be too high, idk. This stuff will make your car run hotter, so for a dd the only thing I would be concerned about is the longevity of seals and gaskets due to the higher heat.

 

ah? i read the higher thermostat thing, but i thought they set the thermostat that way - it said you can safely increase temps, but i believe that's optional with their other stuff.

Also, my car's not a DD - driven once a week if that.

I wonder how this will hold up on the track. Ultimately coolant should more or less hold it's temp until things start getting a little hairier?

 

Yes that's a benefit for sure. If the engine is out, more than likely though it will get cleaned back up at the machine shop anyways. IF your coolant passages are blocked enough with crap then probably lack of maintenance is a culprit vs what coolant your using.

I think I would like this stuff a little more if it wasn't so particular about not mixing with any water/coolant.

 

Just read what I could on the website. Very little information about the heat transfer and heat capacity characteristics. Everything on there suggests a motor runs hotter with this stuff. If anyone has good technical info, please post it.

 

seems like its designed/capable of running hotter, but I'm not understanding how the motor will run hotter if you're using the stock thermostat?

 

Where the hell are you guys getting your information?

 

i'm gleaning from the website. maybe this hotter engine stuff is why i get better mpg at 85 than i do at 75... lol but maybe that's a different story