Ted B

iTrader: (6)

I would contact Evans directly with specific questions, but I'm not reading that an engine will run hotter, or that a low pressure cap is needed.

What I am reading is that it can be run hotter without the fear of coolant boiling over. A hotter running engine is a more thermally efficient engine, which means more of that fuel is converted to power instead of heat, which translates into better power and mileage. But so long as one doesn't change the T-stat, I wouldn't imagine this coolant to run any differently.

mrfred

iTrader: (50)

The thermostat only controls temperature as long as the radiator can pull out more heat than the engine produces. If the heat transfer and/or heat capacity of the Evan's coolant is lower, then I would expect the engine and coolant to run hotter than with water.

TommiM

iTrader: (19)

a quick search from someone who used this stuff.

http://www.3si.org/forum/f11/dumping...-setup-206021/

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

interesting info, that may or may not be dated. guy said he boiled after switching too, from a quick scan through that thread. not trying to defend evans though - i'm compiling some questions and writing them an email as we speak

BEKevo

iTrader: (2)

Lol... You were on a roll for a bit.. Just from experience cdfireman, Evans "waterless" coolant increased my overall operating temps and track temps by 5 %... Doesn't seem like much?? Not worth the hassle IMO... To properly use this stuff you need ALL of the existing coolant out.. Or you'll run into premature boiling conditions. Harder than it sounds dude.. If you have any results actually using the product, show em. Before you start cracking jokes man, I wasn't knocking the product because I don't think my **** stinks, only because I've used it.. I'm always open for debate tho.. I'll stick to peak & water.

If you'd like to see the logs while using the "waterless" coolant cdfireman, I'd be more than glad to PM you the logs while at the track and running around town. All comparisons between 50/50 vs the "waterless" were done at the same ambient temps.. Also you HAVE to run a, unconventional, "non-pressurized" cooling system. So there is some conversion involved that's makes this stuff unappealing to me.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

they seem to be pushing most of the benefit as not having water that will corrode the cooling systems, but it seems documented that it will run hotter overall by a bit - though they don't seem to consider that as a negative, though i'm not so sure about that


seems the reason they want no water is because they want to completely avoid the problems with water, i.e., corrosion and electrolysis

BEKevo

iTrader: (2)

Yes I'm curious what ill side effects could happen from "running hotter", as they put it on there website. Like faster deteriation of seals and break down of certain metals.. To me taking water out of coolant, is like taking lead out of gasoline.. They're taking the good stuff out, to further environmental initiatives.. If that comparison makes sense lol
Water cools more efficiently than 100% coolant, but it does have corrosive properties..

A good method to test this would be by putting temp probes throughout the engine to monitor temps.. Like cylinder head temps and such. Like they did for that Redline water wetter review. But I don't have the time nor desire to do this lol.. if Evans wanted to be successful with their "waterless" cooling marketing campaign, they would have provided this useful information for potential users.

barneyb

1. The radiator must always pull out more heat than the engine produces. Otherwise the coolant would heat until it boils away.

2. The hotter the radiator the better it works.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

^ what is it about this coolant that causes the engine to run hotter, especially using the same thermostat, radiator, fan etc? 100% water runs the same temp, 100% coolant runs the same temp, i'm still not quite sure how this works? Isn't the coolant temp regulated by these items?

cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

Hotter to a point is better. More HP and better fuel economy.




Did you run it or not? Why the "non-pressurized" cooling system? Am I missing something here?



http://www.evanscooling.com/assets/H...ctions-WEB.pdf

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

Here's a response to an inquiry I sent to Evans - FYI, my questions were regarding the Automotive version.


In all cases where the motor is not overheating now, then using our coolant will still see the same temps as with a water based coolant.
Our coolant works internally to remove excess heat from internal metals. Something a water based coolant does not do without creating steam pockets which can't remove heat.
Various sources will say lots of negative things as they don't understand how our coolant works and also compare us to water based coolant. You can't compare apples to oranges and get the same comparison.
As far as running our coolant on the track, we always say to check with the sanctioning body who runs the track, if they say water only, then our coolant can't be used.
You can add up to 1/2 gallon of the green/yellow antifreeze to our coolant and not have any effect. If you add water, then you defeat the purpose of using ours and also add the corrosion factor back to the system.

mrfred

iTrader: (50)

Interesting response from them. I didn't mean to say anything negative. I'm just reading the words written in big letters on the front page of their website: "Increasing the Operating temperature means the fan does not have to run as much, increasing fuel economy by up to 10%". And I see nothing on their website that explains how effective their coolant is at heat transfer or what the heat capacity is. Both are very important to cooling, and if these two properties of their stuff is at least as good as water, I would think that they would have that posted in big letters.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

I'm still confused about the part above.. i mean i get it in the case of overheating there would be differences, but not for normal operations.

i'm thinking then, if it is running hotter, this coolant is retaining much much more heat than a normal coolant or water, overwhelming the radiator and such? otherwise i don't see exactly how it is running hotter, yet everyone who has ran it says it does.

If anyone emails them for questions, please post any responses here - I asked for technical data, and that request was pretty much ignored.

cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

I think between the link I posted above and this one http://www.evanscoolants.co.uk/faqs.html pretty much all your questions will be answered. The whole thing with a car overheating is that when the coolant boils it creates steam pockets that just cause higher temps, more pressure, more coolant leaving the system = viscous cycle. This stuff doesn't boil until it hits 180 C or 356 F if you don't get warning by then or don't pay attention to the warnings you get maybe you should just park it. There are several independent studies around the interweb to read if you're interested.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

I asked for further clarification, and this was the response:

Like I said earlier.................without having all pertinent information about our coolant, many would-be cooling experts will tell you that our coolant runs hotter than water.
Will water be a better dissipation source than our coolant? yes it will. We do not dispute that. But water will still boil at 212 DegF....our boiling point is 375. and the motor can run at hotter temps all day long with our coolant with no problems. I have guys running 230 deg all day with our coolant and they are fully aware of how ours works and they are fine with it.
To make a long story short...................I tell all my customers wanting to run our coolant that if the motor does not run hot now, running our coolant , the temp will be the same. If the motor runs hot and thinking our coolant will cure the overheating problem is not what you want to do. We work with any customer who has an overheating problem and try to get them under control before using ours.
I tell all my customers that I cannot tell you where the temps will be..........they can run the same as with water, they can be cooler or they may even run hotter. Way too many variables for me to pinpoint where it will run.
Too many car guys out there do not do the main thing you need to do if you plan or are already making more HP then stock..................GET A BIGGER TUBE RADIATOR!!!. A stock radiator will only cool stock HP. You make more power, you make more heat. That heat needs to be cooled and usually a stock rad will not do the job.
As far as running lower pressure, you can but it is not necessary. Our coolant does not generate pressure. The only thing making pressure within the coolg system with our coolant is the water pump and that will only be maybe 2-4 lbs. But if you have a 14-15 lb cap on the system, it's still not a problem.