Post your Synapse DV config and results
Jan 15, 2012, 08:37 PM
#331
Okay I'd like to share that I've tried a silly amount of configs and the best I've found was Pull type mode Port B only. FUlly tightened preload to max then loosened 2 turns back. This allows for good non fluttery shifts above 3krpm, but was never ever able to get flutterless at all rpms. WHen it was warm I got no flutter below 3krpm, then colder it was fluttering again. Partial throttle low rpm requires a more advanced setup like ecu modification or something really. I've had no success but I don't mind
Jan 28, 2012, 04:18 PM
#333
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I just tossed mine in went from the norm 26psi to a spike of 33psi, I immediately let off went home and removed it til i have time to tune with it on. it was in push mode both ports connected factory spring/settings.
Feb 17, 2012, 12:34 AM
#334
I decided to try some different configurations again. I'm back to push mode with Port A and Port B both connected. Not sure if its needed, but this configuration more readily releases pressure in part throttle driving. Not only that, but it tends to provide a certain degree of proportional response which has the potential to be helpful for part-throttle power control. If the DV could act as a tunable proportional valve, I think it would be the ideal design for part-throttle power control. The Synapse too readily releases pressure (too strong of a proportional response) to have a truly useful proportional response though.
Feb 18, 2012, 01:20 AM
#335
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I decided to try some different configurations again. I'm back to push mode with Port A and Port B both connected. Not sure if its needed, but this configuration more readily releases pressure in part throttle driving. Not only that, but it tends to provide a certain degree of proportional response which has the potential to be helpful for part-throttle power control. If the DV could act as a tunable proportional valve, I think it would be the ideal design for part-throttle power control. The Synapse too readily releases pressure (too strong of a proportional response) to have a truly useful proportional response though.
I've tried every set up and I'm currently using pull mode with port A connected and no preload. I get a TINY bit of flutter in 4th gear... I can't really tell if its flutter or what... I'm hoping its not compressor surge
Feb 21, 2012, 03:54 AM
#337
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I'm wondering if intake design plays a role in the DV efficientcy. Since I've changed to a perrin intake the DV behaves a lot better. I'm completely satisfied with my setup.
Feb 26, 2012, 08:52 PM
#339
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vacuum is vacuum. grab it anywhere from the intake manifold, but dont tee it off the fuel pressure regulator. if you dont have any open ports, get a vacuum block.
http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...Path=1022_1028
http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...Path=1022_1028
Gawdammit. Now i've got to spend MORE money? Does it ever end? As far as I can see the full blown only has 2 vacuum lines coming out. I've got the boost gauge teed off the larger line that goes to the synchronic DV and the two EGR lines that came off the stock manifold are teed off another line that is teed off of the boost gauge line!
and this is what the synchronic DV's instruction manual has to say about that:
"You will need to locate a vacuum source that is directly connected
to the intake manifold after the throttle body. It is preferable that the
Synchronic DV have its own vacuum source. If you need to tee the
vacuum source, please insure that the straight section of the tee is in
direct communication with the Synchronic DV. See diagram below.
You will also want to make sure that the vacuum source to the DV is
not shared with other pneumatic actuators such as wastegates, EGR
valves[, BOOST GAUGES], etc."
Is it any wonder that my prosport boost gauge is slow as molasses, my EGR system threw a code yesterday and my DV is fluttering and bucking like hell scaring the crap out of me.
*sigh*
I guess I'd better get a vacuum block.
Thanks for the link.
and this is what the synchronic DV's instruction manual has to say about that:
"You will need to locate a vacuum source that is directly connected
to the intake manifold after the throttle body. It is preferable that the
Synchronic DV have its own vacuum source. If you need to tee the
vacuum source, please insure that the straight section of the tee is in
direct communication with the Synchronic DV. See diagram below.
You will also want to make sure that the vacuum source to the DV is
not shared with other pneumatic actuators such as wastegates, EGR
valves[, BOOST GAUGES], etc."
Is it any wonder that my prosport boost gauge is slow as molasses, my EGR system threw a code yesterday and my DV is fluttering and bucking like hell scaring the crap out of me.
*sigh*
I guess I'd better get a vacuum block.
Thanks for the link.
I think you just saved me $50.00. 
you can see the orange boost gauge line and filter in the photo.
From the other side, you can see the cluster **** that is "teed off of teed off of" connected to the boost gauge filter in the next photo.
Doing it your way will clean up my bay and give me good solid boost gauge response. Additionally, there's one other line on the right (you can see it just above the yellow and green zip ties) I can use to run the EGR off of and have a dedicated DV line, as per the instructions.
Thank you very much, that's my weekend project!!
you can see the orange boost gauge line and filter in the photo.
From the other side, you can see the cluster **** that is "teed off of teed off of" connected to the boost gauge filter in the next photo.
Doing it your way will clean up my bay and give me good solid boost gauge response. Additionally, there's one other line on the right (you can see it just above the yellow and green zip ties) I can use to run the EGR off of and have a dedicated DV line, as per the instructions.
Thank you very much, that's my weekend project!!
I did this job.
Ran the prosport boost gauge to the FPR hose (removed the filter that came with the kit).
Removed the T from the line to the DV.
Added a T and an F to the line to the left of it and ran those lines to the two EGR inlets.
Went for a drive. Boost gauge is fixed, sort of, now it's boosting to 28 PSI. Tuner said it's set to 25 so I think maybe i need to put the damn filter back in the line.
Car was much smoother, flutter was nearly gone, bucking too. Nearly.
Next step, configure the DV, which I'll take to the DV configuration thread.
Ran the prosport boost gauge to the FPR hose (removed the filter that came with the kit).
Removed the T from the line to the DV.
Added a T and an F to the line to the left of it and ran those lines to the two EGR inlets.
Went for a drive. Boost gauge is fixed, sort of, now it's boosting to 28 PSI. Tuner said it's set to 25 so I think maybe i need to put the damn filter back in the line.
Car was much smoother, flutter was nearly gone, bucking too. Nearly.
Next step, configure the DV, which I'll take to the DV configuration thread.
After I got my vacuum sorted (got rid of all other lines out from the DV's line) it was still flutter-bucking but not nearly as badly. Hopefully, this will serve as independent confirmation of how important it is to have dedicated vacuum for the DV.
I was in push, a+b.
I switched to pull, a+b. at first I thought it was even better but after a 25 minute drive I figured it was about the same or maybe a little worse.
I finally switched to pull, b-only (what seems to be the general consensus preference). NOW it's very smooth. I can still make it flutter a little but it doesn't buck, more like "slows abruptly". I'll give this a few days before I try anything else.
Last edited by wjamyers; Feb 27, 2012 at 07:57 AM.
Feb 27, 2012, 07:51 AM
#340
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I'm running Push B. It works great except that when the car sits for more than a couple hours the first blow off is hard. It'll surge at any low throttle imput for at least 5 minutes (maybe longer i have always popped it loose) of driving unless I give it about 10 PSI then a quick lift to "unseat" the valve. After that it's just like stock and works great.
I'm in the deep south. It's not freezing out. Low in the 50's.
Anyone else have this first time blow off sticking?
I'm on a 2.3 with HKS 272's and the stock turbo.
I'm in the deep south. It's not freezing out. Low in the 50's.
Anyone else have this first time blow off sticking?
I'm on a 2.3 with HKS 272's and the stock turbo.
Last edited by Rob_GPT; Feb 27, 2012 at 07:53 AM.
Feb 27, 2012, 04:00 PM
#341
I'm running Push B. It works great except that when the car sits for more than a couple hours the first blow off is hard. It'll surge at any low throttle imput for at least 5 minutes (maybe longer i have always popped it loose) of driving unless I give it about 10 PSI then a quick lift to "unseat" the valve. After that it's just like stock and works great.
I'm in the deep south. It's not freezing out. Low in the 50's.
Anyone else have this first time blow off sticking?
I'm on a 2.3 with HKS 272's and the stock turbo.
I'm in the deep south. It's not freezing out. Low in the 50's.
Anyone else have this first time blow off sticking?
I'm on a 2.3 with HKS 272's and the stock turbo.
Feb 28, 2012, 06:11 AM
#342
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Feb 28, 2012, 07:39 PM
#343
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There are a couple of big NoNo's when using these fittings and hoses. You need to give them some bend radius, they can't go very tight or they kink. Below are pics of an installation that I saw once, and obviously, they leaked in that situation.
You have to give them some slack. And when you do, they actually work to absorb a good amount of vibration in the system. Don't worry too much about hose length. They don't expand under boost so they get the signal to the devices very quickly. We've actually measured the delay, and it is negligible.
You have to give them some slack. And when you do, they actually work to absorb a good amount of vibration in the system. Don't worry too much about hose length. They don't expand under boost so they get the signal to the devices very quickly. We've actually measured the delay, and it is negligible.
If this was a big no no nearly a year ago why don't the installation instructions or tuning manual mention it anywhere?
My installer didn't give me back any spare hose and now I'm stuck with this as my two port configuration unless I get some more.
This looks nearly exactly like your big nono:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9969131@N03/6793972944/
Is this going to work or I do I need get some new hose?
Feb 28, 2012, 09:12 PM
#345
Evolved Member
That's how I'm setup now:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9969131@N03/6940138339/
Pull mode, port b, one full turn of additional preload (which seems to have changed it so flutter comes on less strongly with less throttle).
but I want to keep trying all the different options until I'm sure I've got the best config for my car like many have said there's no one-config-fits-all solution here. My next config will be push mode, port B.
I still don't get exactly what the preload is doing and I didn't get to read this entire thread to figure it out yet. Just like the boost connect hoses and attachments the instructions are lacking. It took me half an hour to figure out how to use quick disconnect fitting, TOO SIMPLE.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9969131@N03/6940138339/
Pull mode, port b, one full turn of additional preload (which seems to have changed it so flutter comes on less strongly with less throttle).
but I want to keep trying all the different options until I'm sure I've got the best config for my car like many have said there's no one-config-fits-all solution here. My next config will be push mode, port B.
I still don't get exactly what the preload is doing and I didn't get to read this entire thread to figure it out yet. Just like the boost connect hoses and attachments the instructions are lacking. It took me half an hour to figure out how to use quick disconnect fitting, TOO SIMPLE.
Last edited by wjamyers; Feb 28, 2012 at 09:14 PM.