I think that the line that goes to the stock DV works fine as long as you aren't adding anything else to that line that vents the working pressure.

Which adapter do you have? I'm assuming HKS or Tial.

 

How do we go about getting the barbed ends instead of the crappy plastic line and push style fitting supplied with the newer models? Thanks.

Also, my DV is leaking at 20psi (boost leak test) from the port side. Pretty dissapointing for a $250 DV.

 

Port side? You mean discharge port, or vac port?

Are you putting pressure to the vac/boost port when you do the boost leak test?

 

Im talking about the side of the DV that has the 2 ports(A & B) and preload nut on it. It's a obvious leak. I retightened the fittings, with no luck.

The DV is on my UICP (stock flanged). Hope that helps.

 

Just an FYI that the brass fittings come with the universal kits and the boost-connect stuff comes with the kits. The boost-connect makes life a whole lot easier and cleaner with connections vs. vac hose and zip ties. But the brass fittings are available if you need them.

Have you tried teflon tape for the threads?

If you want someone to call you email support@synapseengineering.com with your info.

 

Yes i tied teflon, should i throw some RTV on the threads instead? I'm only using port A right now. Do i need to cap off port B?

 

Never really seen that before unless they're cross threaded. You can use SOME, RTV, just don't get it in the actual port.

Don't cap off, just leave it vented to atmosphere.

 

Threads are fine. I have a feeling the use of RTV will void my warranty on this DV. I'll fire off an email.

 

for any of the guys wanting to buy/trade for the bigger Synapse let me know! i bought one but i can not use it with my current setup (wont fit )

willing to try out the smaller version

 

Can someone explain how the pre-load spring works and its effects? Im trying to make my Synapse DV work but I can't get it to stop fluttering under partial and full boost after trying several different configs.

 

Increasing the spring tension (tightening the set screw), holds the valve more tightly shut and thus shifts the opening point to lower boost (or into vacuum).

 

tightening the spring causes it to open at higher boost? It will take more vacuum and pressure to open it due to the increasein spring pressure

 

Isn't that what I said?

 

I'm probably retarded but how the heck do you adjust the preload? Do you loosen up the hex nut at the top of the valve and use an allen key for the center? I tried using an allen key but it doesn't spring the screw.

Mine fluttered reeeeally bad in pull mode so I switched to push, it helped a bit so I'll try just using port b as others are.

 

English is not my first language, but your statement at the end made it seem that it would be easier to open.
"thus shifts the opening point to a lower boost ( or into vacuum )"

More spring pressure makes it harder for the valve to open so it shifts the opening point on the valve to higher boost pressure.