Post your Synapse DV config and results
Mar 7, 2011 | 08:56 PM
#106
Mar 7, 2011 | 09:48 PM
#107
Lastly guys, don't share the vac/boost control line to the BOV/DV with any type of control valve. This includes MBCs and BCSs.
Your standard OEM DV/BOV, or aftermarket unit such as Tial, Turbosmart, Forge, etc. have such slow response times and are so heavily sprung that they typically are not affected by this. In fact, we've had one of the local genuises here in San Diego telling their customers that the Synchronic units don't work and that they open up under boost and flutter under boost. When in fact, he was plumbing BCS solenoids and MBCs to vacuum and sharing the same line with the Syn BOV/DV control line. You can imagine what would happen once the control valve would start to PWM or vent pressure from the line.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2XFqd...layer_embedded
Your standard OEM DV/BOV, or aftermarket unit such as Tial, Turbosmart, Forge, etc. have such slow response times and are so heavily sprung that they typically are not affected by this. In fact, we've had one of the local genuises here in San Diego telling their customers that the Synchronic units don't work and that they open up under boost and flutter under boost. When in fact, he was plumbing BCS solenoids and MBCs to vacuum and sharing the same line with the Syn BOV/DV control line. You can imagine what would happen once the control valve would start to PWM or vent pressure from the line.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2XFqd...layer_embedded
Hey that's my Evo in the video!! Sorry peter for going to your shop so damn much. I am getting the spring from Aby. I might pick up those brass fittings if you have any.
Btw, if you are having flutter issues do a boost leak test. Any leaks will really make a difference. This Dv works great.
Mar 7, 2011 | 09:54 PM
#108
Mar 11, 2011 | 03:45 PM
#109
I just installed mine. What worked best for me is pull mode, B port with 50% spring preload; it still flutters a little. However, I have to drive it around for a few days for better evaluation.
IMG_6.jpg?t=1299886373
IMG_6.jpg?t=1299886373
Last edited by 18bora; Apr 10, 2011 at 05:06 PM.
Mar 15, 2011 | 01:52 PM
#110
I've driven enough Evos now that the configuration that I find works best is:
Pull mode, B Port only, no pre-load
You can try the same setup above in push to see how it works for you. But Savagecorpsman's car came in plumbed to both A+B and A was loosely threaded. Didn't drive great, put it on B port only and runs much better now.
Pull mode, B Port only, no pre-load
You can try the same setup above in push to see how it works for you. But Savagecorpsman's car came in plumbed to both A+B and A was loosely threaded. Didn't drive great, put it on B port only and runs much better now.
Mar 18, 2011 | 01:01 AM
#111
anybody elses valve leak out the threads for the preload adjustment for port A? Mine is a slight leak port B is fully sealed but A leaks slowely. I might try a little RTV on the threads and see how that works
Mar 18, 2011 | 01:49 AM
#112
If anyone is running pre-load on an 8-9, I recommend you back it all the way out. There's no need to add more spring. It isn't opening under boost to require pre-load. We have a rig to measure dynamically on any carif the valve is opening at all, and after some tests already today that ha been ruled out.
If you back the pre-load all the way out, it won't leak past those threads. If you're only using Port B, A is to atmosphere anyhow, so it won't be an issue. However, if you are using A for something, some teflon or silicone on those threads will help. However, it will likely not be a leak substantial enough to even register on the MAF. Your MBC or BCS has a greater leak out the vent hole than those threads will ever pass. Still, we are working on a simple o-ring spec that may meet this need.
If you back the pre-load all the way out, it won't leak past those threads. If you're only using Port B, A is to atmosphere anyhow, so it won't be an issue. However, if you are using A for something, some teflon or silicone on those threads will help. However, it will likely not be a leak substantial enough to even register on the MAF. Your MBC or BCS has a greater leak out the vent hole than those threads will ever pass. Still, we are working on a simple o-ring spec that may meet this need.
Mar 18, 2011 | 09:08 AM
#114
Thread Starter
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (50)
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,675
Likes: 130
From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
If anyone is running pre-load on an 8-9, I recommend you back it all the way out. There's no need to add more spring. It isn't opening under boost to require pre-load. We have a rig to measure dynamically on any carif the valve is opening at all, and after some tests already today that ha been ruled out.
....
....
Mar 21, 2011 | 10:22 PM
#115
Finally got around to installing this. I have mine in pull mode with the experimental spring and 3 turns of preload using port B. This thing is amazing the only flutter I can get is from really trying by putting it in 5th and just below 2k rpm which I would never drive like that anyway. The valve reacts fast and is a definite upgrade from the Forge RS I had which is overkill for the stock turbo IMO.
Mar 22, 2011 | 05:53 PM
#116
I might have to get one of these smaller Synapse units.. my old/large Synchronic doesn't fit very well with my Magnus V5 UICP. Is there a trade-in deal if I already have the old unit? 
Apr 1, 2011 | 01:07 PM
#117
bumper for some more results! My car will finally be running next week so Ill get to see how well this bov works...I am using the Tial flange adapter and will be trying it out this way first.....Pull mode, B Port only, no pre-load...
And I just bought these to use...
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-8-BSPT-x-1-4-6...item3cb5ffe767
And I just bought these to use...
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-8-BSPT-x-1-4-6...item3cb5ffe767
Last edited by 06MREvo; Apr 1, 2011 at 01:25 PM.
Apr 1, 2011 | 01:18 PM
#118
I installed it a couple weeks ago, and went with Synapses recommendation of Pull mode, B-port only, and 0 preload.
I have only driven it about 50 miles or so, but it works great. I really have to try to get it to flutter. The driveability is awesome, not even comparable to the Turbofart valve I had before.
Good luck!
I have only driven it about 50 miles or so, but it works great. I really have to try to get it to flutter. The driveability is awesome, not even comparable to the Turbofart valve I had before.
Good luck!
Apr 1, 2011 | 01:40 PM
#119
hey, im wondering why people are resorting to using these brass fittings shown in this picture:
IMG_6.jpg?t=1299886373
instead of using the ones supplied with the DV shown here:
in the evo specific kit they are shown right next to the vacuum hose that they provide:
do those not work? or something? or are they not provided with the kit?
i ask because i plan on ordering the DV soon...and saw a video and some posts saying not to use the Boost Connect™ fittings because with flex they tend to leak?...
Thanks!
IMG_6.jpg?t=1299886373
instead of using the ones supplied with the DV shown here:
in the evo specific kit they are shown right next to the vacuum hose that they provide:
do those not work? or something? or are they not provided with the kit?
i ask because i plan on ordering the DV soon...and saw a video and some posts saying not to use the Boost Connect™ fittings because with flex they tend to leak?...
Thanks!