hey guys i just bought a new wastegate actuator cuz my old one went to crap on my stock evo 8 turbo. how hard is it to replace?

 

Easy.

 

thanks man. any idea on time frame?

 

Probably you gotta first remove some exhaust manifold heatshield(s) etc. But this is minor right? Oh, and cut a piece of cardboard to fit over and tape it on over your radiator core so that you don't bung up the fins while you're working with the wrenches.

Remove the cotter pin that secures the turnbuckle onto the end of the actuator rod onto the WG pivot arm on the turbine housing of the turbo. Then use a long shaft flat headed screwdriver to pop the turnbuckle off from the WG's pivot arm. Then there are just two bolts which fasten the WGA bracket onto the compressor housing. Remove those. Voila!

 

The removal job takes 5-10 minutes the first time that you do it. Installing the new actuator is a bit more involved because you have to adjust WG spring pressure(preload).

EDIT: Oh, I almost forgot: You have to disconnect the vacuum hose on the nipple of the actuator cannister. The entire job is relatively simple because even I can do it. If you run into any snafus or have any questions....just shoot me a PM.

 

very easy, took me about 15 min on my IX just beacause my arms didnt fit down by the turbo

 

it took me a while because my arms wouldn't fit. hard to maneauver. if my arms were shorter/smaller, it wouldn't have been as bad. there was a thread saying that you need to pull the radiator, and all this other crap. honestly, you don't even need to pull the heat shield off. it makes it marginally easier. if you move the radiator fan out of the way, it's simple simple, but with my IC piping, the radiator fan was a ***** to try to move, so i just squirmed around until I got it.

Like people have said though, the removal is simple. the reinstall is a pain until you figure out a way to position your hands to be able to screw the damn thing back in without hitting anything. once you do that, simple simple simple.

just be careful not to hit your radiator and bend too many fins.

 

We can lop or grind a few millimeters off off your arms, wrists, or knuckles.....no problem

 

hey guys I am new the the forum and Im working on an Evo 8 that I got a few weeks ago. I needed a new turbo and the turbo I bought was a used oem however the seller took the waste gate off when he was shipping it. So Im afraid that I might be screwing something up. I have never worked with turbos so I'm doing a lot of research before I try to start it. Yesterday when I installed the waste gate the fitment of the two bolts was not perfect to where the pin goes.... So I started with fitting in the pin and then bolted the two bolts... My question is if I did this right or wrong? when i did this I noticed that the flank or whatever its called inside the housing is more than likely open... Is it supposed to be this way? I have looked for a method to do this but have no luck...

 

It's kind of a tight area to work around but once you get the shields removed, it should not tak more then 20-30 min. 2 bolts, a washer and a cotter pin!

 

^ this

 

yes man i understand that but I'm afraid of adjustment issues?! Like does it have to be adjusted in a certain way or does it just go on? how would I know if it is adjusted correctly? Basically I just want to be sure I didn't screw up because I don't want to break anything thats not already broken. I actually have radiator out and the heat shield off...

 

Hey man, u can go ahead and install it like u did, if u have problems with late boost spool, its because the WG is not fully closed.. so if that happens, all u have to do is pull that pin out, turn the the end a couple threads so when u put it on the little shaft thing its a tight fit... i hope that makes sense, kinda hard to explain thru text

 

So pretty much I can take the end where pin is off and adjust is so when i install it that WG is fully closed? Is that wg supposed to be closed? If so i guess all id have to do is take it off and adjust it so that when I install the lever it isn't pulling on it but is an exact fit correct?

 

Is the turbo installed on the car, or sitting on your workbench? You need to first bolt the actuator bracket with two bolt holes to the compressor housing. then push the flapper valve on the turbine housing down onto its seat.

Then look at the threaded actuator rod. On the end of the rod is this piece that we'll call the turnbuckle. There is a flat on the turnbuckle with a hole in it. Loosen the backup nut and adjust the turnbuckle so that the hole is positioned erectly over the peg on the end of the flapper valve's pivot arm. Slide the hole in the turnbuckle up onto the pivot arm peg.

Now, remove the turnbuckle again away from the pivot arm. Rotate the turnbuckle inward which effectively shortens the overall length of the threaded actuator rod. Now, pull the turnbuckle/actuator rod assembly back up onto the flapper valve pivot arm's peg. This time since you've just shortened the overall length of the actuator rod you will need a bit more stregth to pull the turnbuckle up onto the peg.