AMSOIL HDD 5W30 has over 1300 particles per million (PPM) of zinc and phos, this is also an oil FP reccomends,

AMSOIL AMO 10W40 also has over 1300 PPM of zinc and phos.

racing dominator oil line comes in 10W30 and 15w50 , these haver over 1400 PPM of zinc and phos.

 

of course. fp doesnt care if you blow the motor, they wont have to pay for that. they just want the turbo to last.

 

AMSOIL ATM 10w30 for the past 2 yrs on my Red with no problems. Stock block still in tact. Love the stuff well worth every penny.

 

and if they only knew how you drive your car,,, just like it was meant for ,, and whats amazing is your still on stock bottom end.

 

AMSOIL FTW!

 

Apagan - I was leaning towards amo 10w-40, what's the difference btwn this and ATM 10w-30

 

I would also like to know this. Does a stock(motor & turbo) evo really need thicker oil and higher levels of zinc?

EDIT: sorry op, I know this is about FP red, I hope you don't mind

 

ATM 10W30 is more a low powered engine oil anything up to 500 can run the ATM, however if you are running an FP red or black you want a high zinc and phos oil like the 10W40 AMO

during summer AMO 10W40 hands down.

No you dont need a thicker oil for stock turbo and stock turbo,, i ran 400 WHP 30 psi on race gas on stock engine and stock turbo using ATM 10W30 for over 10,000 miles, i have many customers that run the same oil with great sucess.

 

N what about winter?

 

either one is fine, they both have a pour point of below -40 F

but if you like something that has a pour point below -48 F than SSO 0W30 or ASL 5W30 will be a good viable option.

 

If I lived in the States, I would use either Shell Rotella 5W-40, or the Amsoil 10W-40. However, since I live outside the U.S., I can't get either one of these two oils.

In fact, I can't get AMSOIL. So, I will probably end up having to buy the uber-expensive Motul 300V, in either a 5W-40, 0r a 10W-40. I do have a MOTUL distributor in my country.

 

stick to 10-30/40 on stock bottom.