Compressor side will be v-band so nothing to pop off on that end. On the intercooler end i can get a tab welded on when i mod it. Did you have anything on the couplers? I always hose the joints down with cheap hairspray. It lets them slide together easy and when it dries it glues them on. Its really hard to remove them after the hairspray dries, i usually have to stich a screwdriver in and sneak some alcohol in to loosen it.

Im also on speed density so if it pops off i still have a good running car just down on boost.

 

Ah, that's a shame. I've never had a problem with IC pipes popping off up to 40psi of boost and I just use regular worm drive clamps. As long as the clamp is placed correctly behind the pipe bead, and the clamp is not bottomed out, and the motor mounts are tight enough so the engine doesn't rock and pull the pipes off there should be no problem.

 

n2oiroc,

i must say i did not know the hair spray tactic; so for that, thanks.

i haven't driven the evo since last June, but next june is soon to be here and i'll do that... just in case.

all couplers/clamps were brand new.

wish you the best on your build!!

 

Thanks! Just clean the couplers and pipes to make sure there is no oil or dirt and spray them down a bit, it really works well.

 

n2oiroc,

Will it happen the same with the EFR 7670? I'm installing mine in the next to weeks and I have an ETS intercooler kit as well, do I have to go to the fab shop to? will the 2 parts from vibrant you posted should fix the issue?


Thanks in advance.

 

The 2.5" v band i posted isnt going to work without machining. I ordered a 60* coupler and a couple other things, ill post as i get it figured out. Either way, you will need to add some pipe.

 

^

Thanks!

 

Is this bracket on the "U-bend" part of the pipe - attaching to the chassis so as to reduce pipe wiggling? Just curious about this.

 

^^ ^

exactly... if u visit their page and compare theirs to (pretty much) any other licp manufacturer (or oem comparison), you'll notice they've chosen to ignore the origin of things

at that moment i was very inexperienced and naive (evo-wise)

 

I do not have a bracket connected to my licp and have not had any issues like you are describing. It popped off once with my injen piping but that was because it was not tight enough. I run 30 psi daily and do not use hair spray.

 

i am absolutely in love with my evo. driving this thing daily makes me sooo happy with how it turned out. I havent been posting on here because ive been pulling crazy hours prepping my R14 for the tuner shootout this weekend. Once the dust settles from the race and I am caught up, i plan to re-dyno the evo since I fixed the alternator. Also hoping that the walbro 460 pump will be out so i can run E85 with a single intank... really dont want to add another pump and the 400 will run out of flow at high boost (been testing it on a skyline here)

get it all mocked up and plumbed on the stocker, then installing it on the built motor will be a breeze. trimming the trans mount isnt too difficult i can try and send some photos your way if that would help

[quote=n2oiroc;10052060]once i toss the radiator in, there isnt much room for a coupler off the compressor. im thinking of ordering a j bend and a v band flange and using the flange borg warner was nice enough to put on the compressor cover and cut the barb off./quote]

i would recommend that you use a coupler on the standard EFR outlet. The vband that is there is just a cummins flange/clamp but i tried it on a couple setups and really prefer the traditional method. Also once you cut the housing there is no going back..

We strongly recommend NOT welding to the EFR compressor housings. While im sure it can be done with no problems, the possibility exists that the housing can warp/distort from the heat input and cause a leak at the vband or at the bov... just not worth the risk imo

agreed, my piping has not popped off once, running 28-30psi daily. no hairspray either, just good quality thick couplers and constant pressure tbolt clamps

 

Trimming the lower mount was easy. As far as the coupler i didnt realize they made a 60* one. I just ordered one and will trim it back a bit on the compressor end to give it a bit of radiator room. I bought a 2 1/2" mandrel bend to complete the licp. Since im on the stock mounts i might put a bump coupler in the middle to reduce stress. The upper is plenty long and has a coupler in the middle so that one is fine. Intake will be easy, i have a 4" mandrel bent aluminum tube. I just need to cut it and have it welded into kind of an "s". I have a huge amsoil filter to go on the end of it. These amsoil air filters are fantastic! After 20k on my 35r sti i could wipe the turbo inlet with a white towel and it was spotless. After that i need to mock up dump tubes. Im going to merge them together and run both into a supertrapp disc muffler. Did that on my sti and it reduced the noise dramatically without the drawbacks of plumbing it back. My sister in laws dad is an "expert" welder and ill fit everything and have him weld it as im an amateur welder and have only done mild steel.

 

I forgot to reply, but the Garrett speed sensor I fitted works well. I am breaking in new rings and have not boosted more than about 11 psi, so it have not seen more than about 60krpm if I remember correctly from the logs. Anyway use the Borg Warner sensor if you have enough space. It will save you alot of work Brilliant feature from BW.

 

touche on the welding of the compressor Geoff.

Did you do a backdoor intercooler on your Evo? Do you have pics?

 

Im sure you saw it, but david buschur just put on in his car.