kikiturbo knows this, but I've tried large and small diameter runners on BBK Full and liked large runner better. Had better offboost feel and felt more responsive to throttle input.

 

exactly.... I see no reason to choke the exhaust port with a short flange transition into a significantly smaller runner.. with a larger runner you can keep the cross section more or less constant trought and that is the idea behind this.. Also, the transitions between oval - round and round - t4 rectangular are gradual..

as I said... results will tell, dont want to bang my own drum beforehand..
we will log turbo speed and exhaust manifold pressure and see.

 

Will be interesting to see your before and after of the hks7460 V's the EFR7163.

I have 2.3 with the hks7460. Love the set up but can't wait to get my new cbrd efr7163 kit.

 

My downpipe material came in to Origin Fabrication today....let the fun begin

The mandrel clears the A/C compressor with ease too.

Untitled by Alex Whitacre, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Whitacre, on Flickr

 

Nice. Can't wait to see it all done and results posted.

 

Thanks, I can't wait to see the stuff in person it looks so nice lol. Also great news for others that a mandrel easily clears the a/c.

 

Awhite17,
Some advice from another person who has swaintech'd their manifold...

The exhaust manifold studs go into the oil galley on the cylinder head. When the head gets hot it wicks the oil from the galley, by the threads, and then onto the manifold.... which will cause it to stain your manifold.

I would recommend sealing your exhaust manifold studs to prevent this. Thread sealant or light thread locker.

 

Thanks R/T! We actually already sealed the studs for that reason! I had no idea they went into the galley until we pulled the studs off...I'm by no means an engineer but that seems like a weird way to do things

 

Also for anyone following, my 7163 and Full-Race manifold does not clear a Koyo Rad I bought, nor will it fit my FAL 12" slim puller.

I will be having Origin make me a slim radiator to suit, I imagine a CBRD one would work as well.

 

^ Not surprised, doesnt FullRace specify use of an OEM radiator with that manifold? Ditched my Koyo SpecR (54mm) for an ARC unit (29mm) to get my stuff to fit, even then its a tight squeeze. Can probably gain another ~15mm by offsetting the radiator mounts

 

Does the turbo itself interfere, or the manifold? I'm curious because I've got a Koyo, but it's the half rad.

 

AFAIK Full Race manifold doesnt work with E7/8/9 rad but needs a E6 rad..

 

^ apologies, you are correct - Evo 6 rad required: http://www.full-race.com/store/efr-t...anifold-1.html

FWIW the CP9A & CT9A radiators share the exact same dimensions (I've measured both), sounds like its more the depth i.e. thickness of the radiator that was causing the clearance issue rather than the position of the outlet

 

I dont know what the problem with koyo rad is..

FWIW it appears that the full race manifold will not clear the top rad hose when using evo 9 rad... E6 rad has the top outlet positioned differently... I know that my first prototype also did not clear the top hose, so we redesigned it to clear.. just.. haah

 

It interferes with where the lower charge piping would exit the compressor housing.

I think you could get it to fit if you had a hard 90* elbow welded onto the exit instead of the Wiggins outlet I have, but it would still be darn close with a thicker rad. My Koyo is their newer "V" core which is 50mm.

My 12" FAL puller was hitting its shroud against the compressor housing of the 7163, but I think if you used a SPAL puller without the bulky shroud it would fit. No chance a factory fan will fit.

You are correct, an Evo 6 rad is needed, but my issue was with the thickness of the rad.

I'm going to have Origin make me a 1" (25mm) rad which will alleviate the issues with both the compressor outlet and fan shroud.