WHATS expected to break over 700 awhp
#33
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yea i understand alot of it is involved in the tune and i trust all that to aaron at ER hands down so no worries there i will probably be going w/ a 3586 or 37r setup 7-800 awhp street / strip is my honest goal.. i think im on the right track? and i can replace things as they break its a hobby
This summer in vegas i was workin on a drag racing team with a couple drag cars and the rear end went out in one of them and it mess up the whole rear end, the driveshaft, and the tranny. Given the car is making in the 1800-1900hp range but its still something to consider
#34
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two diff cars but when i was trying to decide to build a k20 or a k20/k24 combo every person i talked to told me that they were killing axles with the k24 they said the powerband was really aggressive and alot harder on drivetrain parts you seemed to have found a remedy for that off topic but ive always found it intresting that they rev the k24 just as high as the k20 yet the safe rpm limit for the 2.4 4g is alot lower then the 2.0.
#35
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with my car at 600awhp everything was holding up great for a long time. I began powershifting at the track and the transmission wouldn't go into gear properly. Did the buschur treatment and I never had another problem. At 700awhp everything was fine for a long time but eventually I cracked a wrist pin. Buschur came out with a thicker walled wrist pin and tougher piston so I run those now.
rockman is correct, I'm still on the stock transfer case. I learned a long time ago on the 3000/Steath platform that the driver is what kills them. I've had friends that went through a dozen of them (they are cheap to replace on the 3000/Stealth) and I'm on my stock one from 1991 in my Stealth (650awhp on race gas) after countless launches. On my 1992 VR4 (450awhp on pump) it's also on the stock tc and these are very heavy cars.
bottom line, drive it like an ******* and it'll break regardless of the mods to prevent it
rockman is correct, I'm still on the stock transfer case. I learned a long time ago on the 3000/Steath platform that the driver is what kills them. I've had friends that went through a dozen of them (they are cheap to replace on the 3000/Stealth) and I'm on my stock one from 1991 in my Stealth (650awhp on race gas) after countless launches. On my 1992 VR4 (450awhp on pump) it's also on the stock tc and these are very heavy cars.
bottom line, drive it like an ******* and it'll break regardless of the mods to prevent it
#36
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Without a doubt once you reach that point these cars become moneypits. I just purchased an 03 for my son with less than 9000 miles on the car. The previous owner had over 30k in mods and gave me the receipts to prove it. Long story short I purchased the car for my son with the motor blown after less than 150 miles on build.
#37
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if the motor blew within 150 miles on a build something was wrong with the assembly or it was abused/neglected. I daily drove and raced mine for years at 600-700awhp before I had a problem with the wrist pin.
#38
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Ya I think there was a problem with the bearings the shop installed. Blew a hole right through the Buschur Racing block, the shop actually blew the car up so he did get some reimbursement from their insurance company.
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there is really no clear cut answer here. i would just replace things as they break. every car is different on how it will react to that amount of power. there no stopping at 700hp. when you reach that you will be thinking about 800hp. so try and build it once and build it right. also the cars dont become a money pit at 700hp. mine became one the day i got it home
#41
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there is really no clear cut answer here. i would just replace things as they break. every car is different on how it will react to that amount of power. there no stopping at 700hp. when you reach that you will be thinking about 800hp. so try and build it once and build it right. also the cars dont become a money pit at 700hp. mine became one the day i got it home
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