06MREvo

iTrader: (90)

Alright guys, I've had no issues with my mini battery kit (ETS), which I've had in my car for for a year and half. I've decided to relocate the battery to the trunk but still stick with a mini battery. I've decided to look into a Braille Battery & a smaller Taylor Battery Box. I've searched a lot on here and looked a different setups and batteries. I haven't seen anyone use the battery and battery box that I am looking to use. From what I have read it seems that either the wheel well area, in the middle in front of the wheel well area or on the passenger side seem to be the best places to mount the battery for balancing out weight in the rear of the vehicle because the driver's side is known to be heavier. I don't want to put it in the wheel well. So I am looking to put it in front of the wheel well area or on the passenger side. Here is the battery and battery box I am looking to use, let me know what you guys thinks, thanks...

Also, if you are racing at an NHRA track, don't you need a battery cut off switch somewhere for rear mounted batteries. I would hate to go to an event and get kicked out of tech for not having this...

Braille Battery, more CCA then the Odyssey batteries...

http://www.braillebattery.com/index....eries/b14115/#

Small Taylor Battery Box...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-48300/?rtype=10

Here is my build thread where I first posted about the battery relocation and trying to get feedback on it...I will also post pics once I do the battery relocation...

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ch-etc-27.html

06MREvo

iTrader: (90)

So no one has any feedback for me??

n2oiroc

iTrader: (33)

i like the summit plastic box with the cable kit. also, put it in the right rear corner, thats the lightest corner. you also need a fuse or circuit breaker mounted close to the battery.

limp_noodle

iTrader: (29)

what size of a fuse is recommended?

06MREvo

iTrader: (90)

Thanks...Now for NHRA tracks don't you need a cut off switch for rear mounted batteries??

n2oiroc

iTrader: (33)

most guys are going with around a 150 amp. i bought this one, its cheap and easy to install inline.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...mi-CBF180.html

i would also use this where you pass the wire thru. i ran mine out on the dricvers side rear, wrapped it in loom and along the fuel lines right up to the connection underhood. its the cleanest way i could think of.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...Wires-FB0.html

n2oiroc

iTrader: (33)

technically i think you do along with a vent tube for the box. in reality though, i dont think most tracks care as long as the battery is secure.

06MREvo

iTrader: (90)

I think I saw the amp in another battery thread...thanks for posting those man...

06MREvo

iTrader: (90)

Yeah...Englishtown is real close to me and they are real **** about the NHRA rules...

dsmfan95

iTrader: (27)

I can't comment on the mounting location but I used that same battery for years. It worked well if I drove the car at least a few times a week, but during the winter it would die fast if I went more than about 2 weeks without driving it.

06MREvo

iTrader: (90)

Thanks for your feedback man...Yeah once I get this big list of stuff done to the car it will be driven a lot more and it will be a lot warmer out too...

kekek

iTrader: (22)

You're going to add more weight to the car making the weight distribution change moot. Small gage wire (larger diameter) is heavy stuff. Not worth the effort IMO.

06MREvo

iTrader: (90)

I thought about that...Thats why I am trying to make up the difference by using a battery that weighs 4lbs+ less then what I have now...Collin @ Toxicfab will be making me a Master Cylinder Brace, similar to the old AMS one, and it won't work with my current ETS tray. Also I want to mount my Toxicfab Catch Can where the battery sits now...

MJ23FE

iTrader: (3)

Broseph,

I have te adjustable battery tray that was made for the Braille 11.5 lbs battery. I purchased it when I bought my Nisei short route piping. I had the 11.5 lbs battery in my car for over a year and a half until the body shop my car was at burned out my starter and my battery to boot. The battery might actually be alright. Trickle charging it for a few days and trying it out would probably put that to rest. After my 11.5 pounder died, I picked up a Braille 15 lbs since the dimensions were practically the same as my tray. The width was identical so it fit between the posts, and I adjusted the length and picked up longer screws for the tie down and it was good to go. I've been running that setup since last January with no issues at all.

My car is parked outside and is daily driven and I don't have any problems. Honestly though, if I was relocating my battery to the trunk, or fabbing a custom tray, I'd def pick up a Braille 18 or 21 lbs battery for the extra piece of mind. Mine works well, but I wouldn't mind having more juice. With the smaller dimensions of the Braille units, running an 18 pounder is def not out of the question in the engine bay with short route piping.

Def go the biggest you can I say. The weight change is minimal for piece of mind knowing your gauges, radio, fuel pump, ecu will be good to go!

Just my $0.02!

-Jalal

MJ23FE

iTrader: (3)

Braille 11.5 lbs battery in adjustable Nisei Tray




http://www.flickr.com/photos/9267835@N03/3642350019/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9267835@N03/3642350019/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/9267835@N03/, on Flickr

Braille 15 lbs battery in adjustable Nisei tray
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9267835@N03/4906156273/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9267835@N03/4906156273/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/9267835@N03/, on Flickr