PROBLEM SOLVED READ POST #4

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well my battery has been dying recently so i thought it was a bad battery.. so i did what anyone else would do and bought a new one... okay good 3-4 days later battery is completely dead only had a 2.4 charge on it

i started pulling fuses to see if i could drop the 0.16a draw (sorry if i confuse watts, volts and amps up..im new at this so any help is welcome )



went into the fuse box under the hood

- fuse #5 (30a) which looks like window motor or something draws 0.03a

- fuse #3 (40a) shows picture of a key in icon had a 0.01a draw



in the fuse compartment under steering column

fuse #15 (15a) looks like door locks had a 0.03a draw

so with all those fuses pulled out it brings my battery draw from 0.14a down to 0.07a


so it seems like it has something to do with the doors..so please give me you input on this issue.. sucks having to push your car or get a jump everytime.. doesnt look cool at all ahahha

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some info that may help

at the time i was checking all the above, the car had all windows up, sunroof closed, dome light off, trunk light off, door trigger pushed closed (so the door open light on gauges wouldnt draw) battery was charged at 13.6v there is no factory or aftermarket alarm on my car, nothing tapped to door locks/ door windows/ or keyless entry... basically everything on the car was all OFF

electric mods i have are
pioneer double din
sirius pioneer radio
aem wideband
aem boost gauge
greddy turbo timer
fog light relay mod (pulled the power fuse to it just incase, but wasnt drawing nothing)
QTP electric cutout
backup camera
aftermarket pushstart
ecu tuned
^^^everything above is IGNITION FED but figured i'd mention it anyway

 

hello altenator!

 

If you can sucessfully jump start the car, then the alternator is probably working fine. A constant draw of 140mA shouldnt be enough to kill the battery, provided its getting a long enough charge from the alternator. How long is your drive to work? Do you spend alot of time in traffic? The alternator is typically not charging the battery if the engine is at idle speed.

 

okay wow i figured it out.. it was the tactrix cable pulling .14... as soon as i pulled it from the obd port it dropped down to 0.01 like it should. I pulled put back all the fuses that was giving me draws and NOTHING! soo somehow the tractrix cable left plugged in kills batteries.. heads up for anyone that leaves it plugged in

i had a new battery, alternator, started and 4gauge power wires running to each in this piece!

 

The OBD connector is a constant 12v source. So when you leave the Tactrix cable plugged in its still going to complete the circuit.

I know you already figured out what was doing it. I thought maybe you'd want to know why.

 

hmm...

 

thanks man appreciate that info

 

11 year old thread still helping today. I didn't understand why my battery seemed to drain faster than usual (Odyssey PC680) and did a quick search. Sure enough, I also left the tactrix cable plugged into the OBD2

 

I didn't realize just how much juice it sucked up either until I let the car sit for a little while. An easy solution is to install a toggle switch in series with the Battery constant to the OBD port. Then you can just flip the switch vs. removing and reinstalling the OpenPort all the time.

 

those generic bluetooth OBD2 thingers does the same.