4G63kevin

iTrader: (16)

Get them goodies fixed and post a vid clip when done. I want to hear it in comparison to my new magnaflow setup.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXeEAoMvn9o

lv05evo

iTrader: (13)

BluEVOIX or Aby@Mil.Spec,

Do you think it would have been better for FERNO to use an Oval Muffler at the rear instead of the Round one he used? I was under the impression that the Ovals would quiet things down better. Possibly dur to more muffler packing on the sides?

FERNO

iTrader: (4)

****.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ml#post9227989

Might be a while before the next update.

edogg23

iTrader: (2)

I told you that you had an exhaust leak! It made absolutely no sense why your car was still loud with everything you did to it without having a major exhaust leak.

4G63kevin

iTrader: (16)

So that means the op had a major leak and didn't know? Wow. Clarify the thread up some bits for me please. thanks

edogg23

iTrader: (2)

Yeah he said he found out he had a big crack in his manifold.

4G63kevin

iTrader: (16)

LOL That sucks. Hope he gets it fixed asap!

FERNO

iTrader: (4)

You did? Missed that. I know someone else in here suspected THEY had a leak a few days ago, but if you told me, thanks!

Major to me. Crack in the manifold and bolt broken on the manifold outlet. Not sure how much of a difference this would make, but yeah, keep in mind the car is 10x louder at 4k than it is at idle. I only heard it after dropping the tailpipe loudness by 5db, then you could hear the telltale "tick".

Let's not forget the broken bolt.

As an aside, I got the manifold down outlet loose again, so the car is "in progress" again.

BluEVOIX

iTrader: (69)

If one bolt is broke on the exhaust manifold and hotside location than thats ok it will still seal with 3/4 torqued down. Just remember dont torque it too tight, it doesnt need to be really tight at that location. It took 2 broken cross threaded bolts and nuts for me to learn my lesson.

Update us asap.

FERNO

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the advice. I've already tagged the torque spec thread for later.

So now I know... rear of the manifold outlet is two studs. It wasn't a broken bolt, it was a stripped stud. not sure what I'm going to do about that, but I'll be getting the part from .

Now the only problem is how the hell to get the manifold off over the studs. I pushed down on the turbo and got those two studs to clear, but it's too much angle on the manifold to pull it off the studs.

What a pain in the ***.

4G63kevin

iTrader: (16)

^ Isn't easier to just take the whole unit off?

FERNO

iTrader: (4)

That's what I hear, but I can't imagine that to really be the case. Looks like I may find out though...

Right now, I'm taking a break. I tear stuff up when I get aggravated, so as much as I want to pull one of those all nighters you read about where the guys wrenched all night to get the car ready for the next day, I decided to call it a night and fix leftover pizza and have a beer.

BluEVOIX

iTrader: (69)

I know what you mean. But you have a different turbo than OEM. With the oem turbo I was able to maneuver it while having someone yank on the turbo from underneath. But on the FP HTA green, there aren't any studs, just bolts and makes life so much easier.

Try having someone tug on the turbo from under the car as you maneuver the exhaust manifold from the top.

FERNO

iTrader: (4)

Thanks bro. I'll try that. I might start on it early, because if only the top of that stud is screwed up and the flange is thinner on the stock mani I might re-use it and be able to make a local event tomorrow.

Otherwise, it will probably be off-and-on until next weekend and I'll just order two studs. I wonder if it will be ok to replace those two back studs with bolts... I'll do some searching on that after I take a look tomorrow.

Thanks again for the support. I'll keep updating.

user

Tanabe Medallion exhaust. http://www.racinglab.com/tanabe-m-to...70072-002.html