czilla

iTrader: (14)

ok my motor blew april 2010 racing a mustang (fml) piston cracked in half caused a huge mess so time to rebuild did the whole thing from oil pan to valve cover.

List of mods
aires pistons .20 over new rings
pauter rods with heavy duty wrist pin (fully balanced)
block was machined/decked
new oem head gasket
oil pick up was modded to pick up more oil
full supertech head
1mm oversized valves steel intake/inconel exhaust
new no tick lifters
fp3065 turbo kit
balance shaft delete kit (ams)
new oem oil pump
modded oil filter housing (spring trick)
acl coated bearings
1000cc clinic injectors
ams small battery kit
93 pump gas
Autronic ecu tuned by Enzo Racing in new york

Got the car back everything was great did the break in with valvoline 20w50 NON synthetic racing oil no problem there put about 500 miles with very little to no boost changed the oil about 6 times in that 500 miles to make sure everything was all good almost no metal (nice)
so i took back to the tuner to do his thing car made about 500 whp@ 23psi
on the last dyno pull the oil pump failed causing my bearings to get eaten up.
so the next week we pulled the pan to fix this mess bearing were dead a pile of bearing shaving on the bottom of the pan.
my tuner and i cleaned up the crank in chasis with emery cloth until it was perfect new bearing slapped in and buttoned everything up, car started like a champ good oil pressure (im back)

now for the problem, ever since i got it back i have been putting valvoline 20w50 synthetic racing oil but when ever im done doing a little pull in boost when i go to clutch in to stop or get off an exit the oil pressure goes very low like almost dead 0 and the car want to die i have to give a little gas to stay on my defi guage reads 0 and my dash oil light comes on until i press the gas. everyone i asked said that this is pretty normal.
so i kept driving it like that but its has gotten worse and worse after im done hitting hit and just cruse it bearly holds 30 psi in 6th gear at around 70mph
i know something is wrong.to make the story better now 2 or 3 of my lifters failed i thinking beacuse of low oil pressure.

PLEASE EVOM GIVE ME SOME INSITE ON THIS PROBLEM.

3gEclipseTurbo

iTrader: (12)

It sounds more like a tuning issue. Here me out, ok so the cars rpm dip <500 and is almost stalling out. Oil pressure is related to rpm only not engine load. So from the car wanting to die and stumpling at 500rpm or even less the oil pressure is gonna drop.

VTA bov with a MAf?

3gEclipseTurbo

iTrader: (12)

What is the oil pressure at 2k rpm, 3k rpm, and 4k rpm?

czilla

iTrader: (14)

the car eventualy recovers and idles at 1050 to 1000 and has about 3 pounds of pressure

czilla

iTrader: (14)

when im in gear at 2k about 30
3k about 38
4k maybe 40 if im lucky
and this is only when the engine is hot after a little beating

3gEclipseTurbo

iTrader: (12)

Ok ya thats low oil pressure, also where is your gauge hooked up to. That effects what the oil pressure reading should be.

But did you delete the balance shafts? You did put in new bearings to cover the oil holes right?

czilla

iTrader: (14)

yea my machanic has done the balance shaft delete several times
the gauge is right above the transfer case in the stock location with a t spliter

when the car is dead cold its above 10bar of pressure (145 psi) and slowly comes down so i know is not the oil pump

RSMike

iTrader: (1)

i have about 40psi of oil pressure on cold start (at 1200rpm)
once it's hot i have about 15-17psi at 1000rpm.

3000rpm + is a constant 75psi oil pressure once it's hot.
when it's cold it's about 100-110 psi.

40psi at 3000rpm+ sounds very very low to me also

My oil warning low light is set at 10psi, and that only ever flickers if i drop below about 500rpm

Fast_Freddie

iTrader: (50)

At idle I see 30psi, cruising at 3000 I am at around 80psi... you probably have bearing material blocking some of the passages internally, BTW did you delete the oil cooler after the spun bearing or just reuse it (a huge no no)... I would check the oil again for bearing material...

czilla

iTrader: (14)

So there could be bearing **** stuck in the oil cooler?

tscompusa2

iTrader: (22)

Freddie pretty much the same pressure i see with my BR 2.3L. 27-30psi at idle and 80psi cruise.

last time i seen below 20psi on my engine it spun a rod bearing from having 1 quart of oil in it only

to OP:
removing balance shafts increase the oil pressure massively, seeing anything under 20 with balance shaft removal.. watch out.

not to knock your engine builder, but the oil pump failed for a reason.. my guess would be he didn't open it up and fill it with lube, so it got severely worn on initial startup being dry.

i always use a impact screw driver and lube the oil pump with lucas assembly lube.

tscompusa2

iTrader: (22)

Absolutely.. when i spun a rod bearing due to my engine running dry on oil i replaced the oil cooler and both lines running to it.. little late for that now, as you're experiencing bad symptoms again.

Aaron20

Great info on the oil cooler! I hounestly would not have thought about it either! BTW Whats up Freddie, it's been a while (im not thread jacking just saying HI)!

goldenEvo

iTrader: (1)

Is your oil pan dented at the bottom, it maybe blocking the oil pick up tube hole. Or there is not enough clearance between the bottom of the pan and the tube opening.

3gEclipseTurbo

iTrader: (12)

Same here running 20w-50, 25-35psi at idle depending on just idle warm or after driving for a while warm. There is a differnce. 3k is 80ish 4k is 100ish